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I just hate the idea of running near 30 psi to make possibly ~550rwhp with this turbo. The 76mm turbine and 0.91 AR doesn't particularly match well with a bridge-ported engine at 8,000 RPMs and it seems like I would just be playing with fire (literally). I also don't want to spend 2k buying a new turbo and making a new exhaust system to blow the motor up.
The cheapest thing to do would just be to turn it up to 24-28 psi and see how it feels. I know at this point my recirculated waste-gate and 2.75-3" exhaust have to be struggling to get the air out...
I just hate the idea of running near 30 psi to make possibly ~550rwhp with this turbo. The 76mm turbine and 0.91 AR doesn't particularly match well with a bridge-ported engine at 8,000 RPMs and it seems like I would just be playing with fire (literally). I also don't want to spend 2k buying a new turbo and making a new exhaust system to blow the motor up.
The cheapest thing to do would just be to turn it up to 24-28 psi and see how it feels. I know at this point my recirculated waste-gate and 2.75-3" exhaust have to be struggling to get the air out...
the turbo is too small to reach 550hp, in a modern dyno 480 to 500 at 30psi. maybe with e85 510-520hp. According to my calculations and the volume of air you need for 550hp. The perfect turbo would be sxe366 you would have 520-550hp@ 20-
22psi. The timing between 12-10 depending on the type of fuel you use.
You should convert to twin scroll manifold rather than change housings .....that will do what you want it to . Housing change def. wont!
I'm going to try with .88, it comes tomorrow. I have nothing to lose with trying. If it doesn't work, I'll try to change the manifold. I will tell you soon if it worked
I was under the impression that it took 65 lb/min to reach 500 rwhp on a rotary given ideal conditions. 75 lb/min turbo should be able to theoretically make 576 rwhp. However, probably not safe boost levels.
I agree though that its definitely not a good turbo for 550 rwhp, I originally through I would be happy with just 400-450 rwhp. I wasn't even sure I could complete the swap since I knew absolutely nothing about a rotary engine prior to starting the project.....
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 01-30-2020 at 11:04 AM.
I was under the impression that it took 65 lb/min to reach 500 rwhp on a rotary given ideal conditions. 75 lb/min turbo should be able to theoretically make 576 rwhp. However, probably not safe boost levels.
I agree though that its definitely not a good turbo for 550 rwhp, I originally through I would be happy with just 400-450 rwhp. I wasn't even sure I could complete the swap since I knew absolutely nothing about a rotary engine prior to starting the project.....
Here most have 500 to 550hp in the rotary engine. but they use VP fuel all the time. A rotary engine with 400 to 420 using 91 or 93 pump gas is reliable. 430hp and up you need good fuel. If your car is for drag, my advice is to use 366 or 369 with vp fuel and weight reduction.
I do not think the same way, I am not promoted my built. We are talking and sharing the results and experiences with sxe362. Here nobody is talking about 600 or 700hp like you. We know that 366 has capacity for 600hp and sxe369 for 700hp🤷🏽♂️. There was talk of 550hp with sxe362 it doesn't look possible and from my experience the sxe364 and the sxe366 can reach those numbers without problems.
for that it is the forum to share information.
It's kind of relevant Gamaliel ...but the stuff on the housing etc should be on your own thread .
Dunno how Strokercharged feels about all this ?
They talked about lag and transmission combinations fd, rx8 5peed, rx8 6speed etc, with sxe362 turbo. But they never considered changing the turbing housing. It is another alternative to improve. A second, 300rpm, 5hp, 3 more mph etc, all that is considered an improvement with sxe362 and 13b swap combination.
I don't understand why the gossip, or the trouble. Here comes help and talk about possible combinations and things that work with swap and sxe362.
But back to the subject. you can modify that turbo and turn it into a 364 or 366 in any maching shop.If you put the rx8 on a diet and upgrade to the turbo you could do 11 maybe less in the 1/4 mile. but you should use good fuel like vp or anorher race fuel like 100, 112 or 116. This league is with S400sxe
Sorry, but your build stuff is not really relative to what he’s doing here. He has way more response and power at low rpm than you do. Recently the boost control was re-configured to intentionally lag at lower rpm to limit torque and stop breaking transmissions. I think you missed that part. He then suggested installing the larger turbo to provide the early rpm lag that way instead, but make a lot more power later. However, I think it will still make too much torque and break OE transmissions.
even that S369SX-E car in the video was cranking out 500 ft-lbs from around 5500 - Redline when it wasn’t spinning the tires on the dyno. Which that FD3 also has a NASCAR GForce/Tex Racing transmission in it.
Sorry, but your build stuff is not really relative to what he’s doing here. He has way more response and power at low rpm than you do. Recently the boost control was re-configured to intentionally lag at lower rpm to limit torque and stop breaking transmissions. I think you missed that part. He then suggested installing the larger turbo to provide the early rpm lag that way instead, but make a lot more power later. However, I think it will still make too much torque and break OE transmissions.
even that S369SX-E car in the video was cranking out 500 ft-lbs from around 5500 - Redline when it wasn’t spinning the tires on the dyno. Which that FD3 also has a NASCAR GForce/Tex Racing transmission in it.
I don't compare any built. You cannot compare a race car with a daily drive car with a/c. I only share what is happening to me with sxe362 turbo and listen ideas and opinions. For that is the forum. or not?? Definitive that has more power and torque that my R3. But I have to say that it is slow for 1/4 mile, but good for street race. on the other hand, the transmissions. I have seen many broken transmissions on the dyno. That is the weakness of a rotary engine. The best one is the Turbo 2 transmissions after Rx7 fds, but they all break over time.that's why they change to a race one or use a custom t56. Which video you talk about the turbo 2 that has a s366 turbo or the r3 that I am not sure, but if I do not remember is a s400 turbo ?
New Pull. Upped the ethanol to 45%.
Cool and dry outside.
Increased duty cycle (50 to 52) in third gear to get more power.
Tires do a pretty good job in 2nd gear and hold in 3rd gear.
I was on a hell of a pull then the stupid 27 psi boost cut hit right at 6,800 RPM
Looks like I am running out of fuel.
Just before I hit fuel cut at 27 psi
AFR 11.8, 6,800 RPMs - 95% of thew 1000 cc/min P1 injector, 95% of the 1,650 cc/min Sec injector, 67% of the 1,000 cc/min P2 injector..... Leaving me about 250 cc/min of injector capacity on each rotor with another 1,500 RPMs to go (8,200 shift)....
I’m going to assume that’s 95% of the 85% safe full injector capacity then?
is there some reason you aren’t sharing the injector load more equally as the fuel requirement transitions into them?
it must be pulling quite strong once you get past the intentional delay and have full boost. Congrats on that!
I assumed its 95% (actually 94.4) of the injector. Could be 95% of 85%, either the Eugene software considers it max...
I haven't tried messing with the injector strategy as it works the way it is and I may make it worse.
Car feels fast once it gets going, your pulse rate is skyrocketing hoping the tires don't break lose at 60+ mph or feeling the engine is going to grenade as the boost gauge buries itself...
There is a 1/4 mile track event next Saturday night, I may try to make it out there to see what kind of MPH i can pull going through the 1/8th and 1/4... I would be happy above 100 mph in the 1/8th and 125 in the 1/4. ET probably won't be there on these tires...
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 02-02-2020 at 06:33 PM.
Of course I had a great Saturday afternoon running the car. Clean pulls. Some of the highest Delta T (acceleration numbers) I have seen at 23-26 psi.
Yesterday tried again and I was getting those weird sensor spikes like the ignition system wasn't grounded (even though it is.) causing breakup in the car. No cuts shown in the log. AFR right at 11.0-11.5:1. This is all at 25-26 psi. Can't seem to get over 6,000 RPMs without some issues.
The main difference between Saturday and Sunday was weather Sat was much cooler/drier than Sunday so it would be able to burn the extra fuel a bit easier as there was more of it and less moisture.
No knock in log. Just spikes in RPM and funny stuff going on with the injector duty cycle... My AFR gauge has been acting weirdly, constantly showing me a whole point richer than what my datalog records.... My datalog will say i'm at 11:1 and my gauge says 10:1... Its completely possible that my Bosch WB sensor is going bad and I may be putting too much fuel in it and those weird events are simply misfires which cause havoc on the coils and pay haywire with the ECU/grounding..... It may just be time to get a new Bosch 4.9 sensor to confirm. I have had the current one a few years, which seems to be a lifetime on a rotary (high EGT and premix)..
Ordered a new LSU 4.9 Bosch. We shall see.
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 02-10-2020 at 08:47 AM.
The Prosport wideband o2 sensor is hooked to a 52mm gauge... There is a 0-5 output lead from the 02 sensor that goes into the Adaptronic spare 0-5 volt input which is normally the APV input (unnecessary for REW). The gauge used to mimick Adaptronic logger, but now the gauge reads 1 point richer than the logger. Either the gauge is going bad, or the sensor/output signal is incorrect a I have not made any changes to the calibration in 5 years... Either way replacing the o2 sensor is the easiest check. I will see if that makes a difference.
If that makes no difference, i'll check all the grounds again or reduce the dwell settings to see if less spark output = less interference...
An impressive change. improvement from 4,500 to 4,100rpm. It is more aggressive when it goes from 4,000 to 8,300rpm. The $ 100 invested was worth the thought.
Well I installed the new LSU 4.9 WB sensor and it appears that nothing has changed. Logs are still the same. Basically at this point its the shitty Prosport gauge which is going bad and not the sensor/0-5 output signal.
I also changed the ethanol sensor. This is interesting. The new flex fuel sensor shows ~10% less ethanol than the other sensor. Was 42% on the other sensor and 32% on the new sensor. I tend to believe the new sensor since I would see 15% ethanol content on straight 93 octane which is supposed to max around 10%.
It looks like I may have been pushing 25-26 psi on just ~30% ethanol content w/ water/methanol injection. I'll take it back out sometime soon as push it again and see if I can tune it a bit leaner to keep the car running without hesitation/sensor interference....
01-28-2020, 06:33 AM
Seems like you're having too much fun. 
