If those will fit between my FEE secondary rail and excessive LIM (48mm), then I will take them.

I already have blue sleeves for the bottoms and will only need hats if those are 34mm length (to get to 48mm).

If you think I should have no problem getting those to work let me know your paypal and I'll send you the dough.

Also, how many miles on those injectors? How many miles with ethanol?

Do you have the slope/offset values?

 

I will measure them when I get to the shop. I'm not sure on length. They don't have much on them. Maybe 1,500 Miles. I downsized to 1,000cc injectors. I was using these as primaries and did not need the capacity.

I ran both ethanol and pump. Wouldn't be a bad idea to send them in for a clean/flow test at FIC. But they wear perfectly functional when removed.

I'll PM you my paypal and lengths.

 

Fantastic. From top o-ring to bottom o-ring should either be 34mm or 48mm. I assume they have USCAR connectors as well?

On another note, my neighbors do not like me.


Update: New injectors are on the way. Will be going from 725/1000/1000 (2,725 cc/min) to 1000/1000/1650 (3,650 cc/min). Can run more boost and higher ethanol content.

 

 

 

I don't think it has anything to do with the tuning software. I am constantly making changes to the car that require tuning. I am not in any rush.

Update: Did some pulls last night and I was getting fuel pressure drop above 6,200 RPMs when I was hitting 23-24 psi. There is no way around it, I will have to run two pumps. I will run the AEM pump 100% and only run the Bosch 044 above 11 psi triggered off the water injection pump. Just ordered $175 worth of fitting including a check valve for the second pump. I should have a majority of the parts be next week including the new secondary injectors.

 

Better luck tonight holding fuel pressure. It was warm and humid out, pull happened after 40 mins of driving around and everything was heat soaked. Not my fastest pull. Never noticed the little green light changing brightness depending on the effort of the injection pump. Still having to turn down the boost above 7k to keep injectors/fuel pump from maxing.

 

I have my new injectors and harnesses ready to go in this weekend. I also have all of the fittings coming to plumb in a second fuel pump.

Originally when I started in on this car I was only looking for 400-450 horsepower and just wanted to get this car up and running. I originally thought that a 3" exhaust would be enough. I have spent an awful lot of time the past few days doing research on exhaust sizing and it looks like a 3" down-pipe is way too small for what I'm trying to do. It is likely effecting spool, horsepower, and EGTs. I could probably make a whole new exhaust for a few hundred dollars in supplies as I already have cutting and welding equipment. the 3" exhaust already is tight through the area between the motor and frame rail. I would likely just focus on the down-pipe and mid-pipe now as they appear to be the most important. Should I run a 4" pipe off the turbo for 12-16" then neck it down to 3.5 to pass by the motor/tranny and frame rail, then go 3.5" all the way back to the 3" cat-back? Should I just go 3.5" all the way back? I will probably change the wastegate recirc point further back to make installation of the pipe easier.

Any thoughts? Either about needing to go bigger than 3" or design for the next system...

 

I used to have a 4" down pipe right off the turbo, and it was 4" the entire way to the tail pipe. With one 4" through muffler. It fit, was tight, but it fit. I recently last year changed turbos and made a 3" downpipe, and still using 4" exhaust. Making 454whp. Zero Issues. Lot more room with 3"

 

 

The % of exhaust gases coming out of the wastegate is between 35-45% of the total volume depending on your turbo efficiency/size. The ideal would be to run 3" DP where space is limited then taper to 31/2 or 4"at the point the WG enters the pipe.
The more free flowing your system becomes ...the less flow there is going through the turbo and more through the WG.

 

So by just adding a dump tube and sealing up the recirc point on the down-pipe, I would relieve 35-45% of the back pressure through the exhaust? How loud would this be on a scale of 1-10 since I have never heard a dump tube on a 13b under boost?

Maybe I should just modify the down-pipe and if I can't deal with the loudness of the dump tube, then re-fabricate the exhaust with a bigger diameter...

 

You would definitely lose a few pounds of backpressure by dumping to atmos but I doubt you would like the sound . On a scale of 1-10 ...I'd give it a 12 because it's not only loud ...it's nasty . I actually run a separate muffled pipe for the wastegate but that was really expensive way to do it.

 

Under the car dumps are okay... if you like the snort. Out the hood on the other hand like I have. Is just plain loud ...But I love it.

 

Got and sound clips ?

 

Stroker ..... why not make up a screamer pipe? .... so you can run it either recirculated or vta !

 

I don't have many clips for good comparison....


Hood Exit
https://www.facebook.com/EliteRotaryShop/videos/1107227652777234/

 

I was under the impression that a screamer pipe was just a dump tube turned towards the sky instead of the ground.... I am just looking for a way to take some pressure out of the exhaust since I have everything currently going through a 3-inch, which has to be a restriction at 8k RPMs and 24 psi....

FYI this is current setup

 

Looks to me like you could just increase diameter from point wastegate enters system and that will do it . No point going all the way to the turbo ...no benefit.

 

That's a good idea I am planning on running an event on November 3rd. After that I will be making some exhaust modifications for more flow. If I can fit some resonators or muffler in the mid-pipe for extra sound deadening I will. Right now I have 3 resonators and a muffler and the car is pretty loud.

 

If I was doing mine over again ...I'd go 31/2" to the diff ,with a free flow muffler where the cat is . Then split into 2 x 3" free flow mufflers at the rear .

 

Update: There is really no more frustrating thing in life then taking a car that is running flawlessly and making it a turd. Over the weekend I swapped out the 725cc injector for the 1000s, then added the FIC 1650s to the secondary position. While making the changes I decide to update Eugene on Adaptronics. Well Eugene will no longer communicate with my ECU, so now I have to tune using WARI. To make things better, my car will start up and drive normally and make good vacuum/compression, but when I go WOT car hits a wall between 4-6k RPMs, sputters, backfires, etc. The AFR logs actually look normal. I have changed plugs even though I only had 100 miles on the new ones, and swapped out coils (no difference). I even used a voltmeter to back trace the injector wires into the computer to make sure that didn't cross them up. I haven't even got the 1650s firing yet because I can't get the RPMs up high enough before the motor starts cavitating. I have made all of the appropriate changes in the software to compensate for the injector change. I have even swapped the 1000s from the P1 to P2 position and P2 to P1 position to eliminate the injectors as the culprit. The only thing I can think of now is that one of my P2 injectors is not getting good contact with the wiring harness/adapters, or somehow I have swapped the injector wires up even though I double-checked. The car also makes good fuel pressure and there are no fuel leaks as far as I can tell. This 2-hour job has now consumed 10-12 hours over the past few days with no end in sight!

 

That sucks ! Any way to go back to how it was ...including the software and tune ?

 

Yes I can do that, but that would be the last resort. At this point, I am not even sure what the problem is because I haven't even used the new injectors yet. I triple checked all the wiring yesterday with a voltmeter and every single injector harness was perfectly connected with the computer.

I am working on another theory now of what the problem is. Previously my P2 and Secondary injectors were both 1000cc. In Adaptronics, they stage them P1, P2, and Secondary. In the my rx8 electrical wiring book, they also stage them P1, P2, and Secondary, but they call the P2 position the "high-powered " ones. (as if Mazda fires them P1, Secondary, P2) Is it possible that this spun everyone for a loop and I should really be staging them P1, Secondary, P2??? It is possible I was doing it wrong all the time, but since they were both the same 1000cc injectors, it never made a difference????

First Mazda gave us the Rear Secondary injector and Front P2 injector the same wiring colors, but it seems there is also some confusion on the staging.

Can anyone confirm this to keep me from burning the car to the ground? .

 

BINGO ! https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...5/#post4855510



As you can see ...P1,sec,P2 is how MAZDA says it is staged . P1,P2,SEC is what i found by experimentation is the reality. This doesn't match what you are saying that Mazda says however . Where did you get that information and how does it even relate to your REW engine running an Adaptronic ?