yeah, it would be interesting to see the result - how much the intake runners in the engine add to low end. Even when I'm not boosting, the turbo is spinning and can deliver more air to the engine than it would otherwise be sucking in, so would one cancel out the other, or ..

 

well how much boost are you at in the 2-3k rpms? cause if it isnt much, then it would really hurt drivability. the low rpms need the speed and turbulence that the small runners give it for torque.

 

at WOT, 3k rpm is at least 6 psi. 3.8 rpm is 11+ psi.

2k would not have much boost, but it would have more air pushed in than stock. If the torque gain is +15, then the turbo might be able to do more for it. I just don't have any hard information.

 

well then from 1-2k, drivability will suck, but it not like you are there long.

 

lol. when was the last time you were at 1k driving? that's idle speed. I have a lightweight flywheel, I can blip my throttle for a split second and it'll be higher than 2k. At 2k rpm, the car likely makes 25 hp or something equally ridiculous.

 

very true. i also imagine that if you increased the boost to 11, that the boost would also come on a little earlier. maybe

so basically, from what i see, is that if you have your FI system tuned properly, you probably could keep the ports open at all times.

 

A question I have, since you have a lightweight flywheel, is it true the lightweight flywheels lower your torque? What are the gains of the lightweight flywheel? Daily driving helps to rev faster, but if you setup for drag racing it doesnt? Or you gain reving quickly and lose torque at the higher RPMs? Someone please explain this to me.

Thanks.

 

you do not lose any torque.

people misunderstand how the clutch and flywheel works. The answer would change though if your question was - "If I slipped my clutch and never engaged it fully, would the lightweight flywheel have less torque?"

 

please read this:
http://victorylibrary.com/tech/inertia-c.htm

 

Perfect. Thank you for the information and link.

 

I just want to let everyone know I'm on the road for the next three days, so it will take me a bit to respond to stuff.

 

This is exactly why I wanted you to send me the AP maps so that I don't have to wait for your email once I do receive it.

I replied to your email twice with all my info and still no reply.

 

You have to wait a bit. That is part of the deal, I'm afraid.
Everyone's maps are custom. I need to send you the e-mail after you receive it so I can track who got what.
Otherwise, it is a complete cluster-f and I can't service anyone.
There are over 480 calibrations out there now, each with something different about them.

I'm kind of at a loss. I realize everybody wants immediate satisfaction, but a few days here and there for completely custom, hands-on, personalized service doesn't seem too outrageous to me.

If I could have a service department that could help me with the 50 + AccessPORTs that I have out there now, that would be great.
But, as you can see, it is difficult enough to explain the process to individuals one at a time.
Finding other people to help me provide my desired level of service is completely impossible.

I will get everyone completely up to speed in the most timely fashion that I can.

Thanks!

I've responded to you several times.
Your e-mail server rejects ZIP attachments.

 

Try renaming the files to maps-rename-me-to-dot-zip.txt

 

just a quick question, do you charge anything for your custom maps?

 

Good timing.

Need to spend my IRS stimulus somewhere!!! Now if the wife would quit giving me dirty looks.

Fortunate for me, I can cover the cost with a few days OT...

Itchy fingers...

 

Not if you buy the AP from me.

 

good deal.

 

I've got about 400 miles logged now on Jeff's AP Pettit S/C tune. I took a few videos of the AP in action (poor man's compromise in not having good data logging at the moment) One of them I took (MAF sensor reading) is confusing me, so I posted on YouTube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=68UdT1dOTkI

From the video, you can see my MAF rate hit 374g/s at the beep. On several other occasions, I have seen it hit 400 g/s while driving when its cooler at night. Other owners are getting much less than that and I thought 330g/s was about the limit of the MAF without throwing a CEL and loosing accuracy? I'd like to think my S/C is just stronger, but I really doubt that.

I know there were tweaks made to the MAF calibration, but I thought they were all at the idle flow rate range. Could this at all be because the IAT has been relocated post-intercooler? Does the stock ECU do any trimming of the MAF readings using the IAT or BARO sensor that might explain the difference?

Now the tune itself is so far perfect. My query is purely academic, as everything important (AFR, timing, LTFT, etc) seems to be just fine.

 

What size is the intake tube......I'll bet it's smaller than stock

 

No, its larger. That is why the numbers are skewed. Think about it.
I know its counter-intuitive.

 

Hey! Don't you know? That's supposed to make up for the lose of real estate value!!


I wish I got IRS stimulus....
This thread is just kind of confirming how great the AP is.

 

I thought you would go to a larger tube if you have maxed out at the MAF at 330g/sec? If he is getting readings that say 374 and 400, how is that working? Essentially, the MAF just measures velocity right?

 

wow

beers

 

Depending on the amount of air flowing past a wire it sends a voltage to heat it or something I don't know. I don't make maf sensors...

I guess it measures velocity assuming air density is constant..., but it probably wont be. I worded my previous post poorly. I can like see stuff in my head man, but like I don't know sometimes its like hard to make that picture into words man, you like know what I mean hombre?

I still don't see how you will get higher readings from a larger tube?