Dyno Results Compilation
stock dyno done yesterday 5/8/09 1st pull 3rd gear 179.75hp 127.42tq thats after correction pre-correction was 183hp ... also did pull in 4th and got 135 ft lbs of torque. run conditions were 76 degrees and 31% humidity
Interesting. I thought it would make more sense to do the AP last, since it requires tuning to get the most out of.
Do you think an AP with a MM base map would make more torque than a free flow cat, all other things being equal (and the existing cat in good shape)?
Do you think an AP with a MM base map would make more torque than a free flow cat, all other things being equal (and the existing cat in good shape)?
You always plan ahead... the AP gives more power - AND better engine life and reliability.
And it is easy to tune for new changes - though the Cat and Header won't really require any new tuning since we have a MAF car.
And it is easy to tune for new changes - though the Cat and Header won't really require any new tuning since we have a MAF car.
still king of the ant hill bump? 

The Mustang dyno graph is finally posted at the Cobb Tuning AccessPort thread link below.
The numbers are slightly different than what I recalled:
https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=414
The numbers are slightly different than what I recalled:
https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=414
You will be FOR A LONG TIME!
Unless someone did all the NA mods like:
Midpipe
Catback
Headers
Intake (CAI)
Flywheel
Underdrive
Accessport
Ported Throttle Body
Ignition Kit
Am I missing any N/A mods other than lightened rotors and smaller and lighter wheels?
First three mods I would get is an AP, Ignition kit, then Midpipe... I'm guessing it would give an overall of 20-25whp if you do those 3.
Unless someone did all the NA mods like:
Midpipe
Catback
Headers
Intake (CAI)
Flywheel
Underdrive
Accessport
Ported Throttle Body
Ignition Kit
Am I missing any N/A mods other than lightened rotors and smaller and lighter wheels?
First three mods I would get is an AP, Ignition kit, then Midpipe... I'm guessing it would give an overall of 20-25whp if you do those 3.
Last edited by shazy; May 15, 2009 at 09:44 PM.
Dear all
Attached is my dyno results and need some help from you guys/gers to see whether it seems weird to you.
I dont think the rpm is accurate as it is quite far off from the redline and I am driving a 6MT
By the way, my mods are list below.
Revi Intake
Straight Pipe
Knight Sports exhaust
Knight Sports Remap
The results are done on a roller dyno, call mainline, which is from Australia I believe
Thanks for all your help
Alan
Attached is my dyno results and need some help from you guys/gers to see whether it seems weird to you.
I dont think the rpm is accurate as it is quite far off from the redline and I am driving a 6MT
By the way, my mods are list below.
Revi Intake
Straight Pipe
Knight Sports exhaust
Knight Sports Remap
The results are done on a roller dyno, call mainline, which is from Australia I believe
Thanks for all your help
Alan
Let's look at the curve first. A stand alone number isn't really useful. If you're making max power at 8Krpm with a nice smooth curve you're probably in good shape.
I have been reading this stuff for a while now. I still dont see why people seem to think that getting a coil system is going to give them more hp. It doesnt work that way. If your stock coils are firing as they should, you are not, repeat not, going to get any more hp by replacing them. All these aftermarket coils and all are just expensive ways to get money from you. The ONLY thing an upgraded coil system will do is perhaps last longer. There are no gains unless your coils are not firing the plugs as they should. The upgrade will only maintain the power better if the stock system is starting to wear. In summary, there are no gains in power unless your OEM coils are not firing as they should, in that case, replace them with new ones for about $30 a piece. I have seen it proven on dynos time after time. If your stock system is working correctly, their is no gain, not a single hp improvement by putting on an aftermarket system.
Last edited by cliffkemp; Aug 7, 2009 at 11:21 PM. Reason: spelling
I have been reading this stuff for a while now. I still dont see why people seem to think that getting a coil system is going to give them more hp. It doesnt work that way. If your stock coils are firing as they should, you are not, repeat not, going to get any more hp by replacing them. All these aftermarket coils and all are just expensive ways to get money from you. The ONLY thing an upgraded coil system will do is perhaps last longer. There are no gains unless your coils are not firing the plugs as they should. The upgrade will only maintain the power better if the stock system is starting to wear. In summary, there are no gains in power unless your OEM coils are not firing as they should, in that case, replace them with new ones for about $30 a piece. I have seen it proven on dynos time after time. If your stock system is working correctly, their is no gain, not a single hp improvement by putting on an aftermarket system.

It was thought some time ago that the coils were the barrier to going past 330whp - well i'm at about that on the stock coils and don't have any issues ........ yet
Problem is...the stock system SUCKS for anything but OEM NA operation
And even for that they tend to last about 20K miles before they are even suboptimal for that
Still wonder why there is an upgrade
And even for that they tend to last about 20K miles before they are even suboptimal for that
Still wonder why there is an upgrade
I am not going to disagree with you about that when FI is in play. When you start upgrading to FI, upgrading the coils is something that should be done no matter what car you have as stock ignitions on NA cars are not made to handle decent boost upgrades as with turbos and superchargers. I agree with you on that and a custom ignition should be thought of in advanced for those situations and my comment was not addressed to those situations. For a majority of those out there that are still NA, thinking that they are going to increase hp and for those companies that say this, it is bogus. The stock system, as long as they are firing the plugs throughout the rpm range are delivering the maximum amount of power possible. Depending on your driving habbits, they may last 20k or more. If people want to spend more money for a system that may last longer, go for it. That would be a good choice but, saying they are getting more hp is bull. The point.....stock coils are cheap and can be replaced easily every time they are starting to go for about $120 for the set. If you go out and buy the okada or bhr for several hundred, that sure can buy you many sets of stock coils that can get you around 100k miles before you see any benefit, cost wise. I totally agree with you on FI though as that is a whole different monster.





