Thanks Team, I'll check out those mounts.

 

I am working on my fine tuning. I have a real dyno scheduled for next Tuesday. Here is the latest from this afternoon. Power dip between 6K-7K I think might be due to timing getting slightly pulled. I am seeing boost peak at 17psi.

GoPro video, still working on the best placement and settings, will look into Yomoms mic suggestion:

 

Torque looks pretty impressive !

 

You set the bar pretty high, I'll see if I can keep up

Fazda reminded me, that dip, I forgot about APV YO! Lol

 

open it sooner ...

 

Interesting, I will look into that.

 

Yeah .........Nah .

Been through this many times . Opening APV anymore than a few hundred rpm less than stock will yield negative results.

 

he has a top mounted Comp Turbo CT4 6062, not a hair drier

clearly power is flat-lining before it opens and it's also a simple enough test to try and find out for yourself

 

That is my experience having actually tried it ........... I'm sure which turbo you have will not make any difference whatsoever. It's related to the dynamics of the engine ......not the turbo.

 

please explain, I'm listening

 

Not sure i believe that but here goes anyway ....

If you have a spare rotor and iron and look what is happening when the apv port is still open (and have a bit of a think about it ) you can see for yourself that how well the APV port works is determined by how fast the rotor is moving past it .
If the rotor is moving slowly air will backtrack into the intake , as compression starts before the port is closed.
The faster the rotor moves the less tendency there is for this to happen to any significant degree.
The acceleration of the engine in a turbo car being much faster than an NA means the time it takes for the DC motor to open the valve becomes a factor , so setting the opening rpm a little earlier has some benefit .

As far as testing this ... I tested it years ago but when you brought it up not that long ago, I tested it again ........ with the same result .

 

I was serious and can see your point, though I'm not entirely sure that I'd agree. The easy test is to make two test dyno runs. One run with the APV set to open early and another run with it set to open late ( maybe say 5000 rpm and 7500 rpm). The overlay the two dyno runs and see where they cross. The set the APV open point about 150 - 200 rpm sooner than the crossover point

 

Did something very similar ........ except with MAF logs instead of dyno .

Doing a dyno would ,IMO, be LESS accurate because the ramp rate of the dyno would affect the result.

I set mine up to get the best result on average between 2nd and 3rd as they are the most favored gears in terms of straight line acceleration.

If you open it at around 4000 you can actually feel the loss in power with your butt dyno ... It is significant.

 

I'd agree with doing MAF instead. It's my usual technique. I have done some things that look great on MAF logs and then don't seem to work on the dyno.

 

Could be because the dyno is not really 'real world' . It is really only telling you ...... this is the power you would make at various rpm if you accelerated this fast .

Actual power is different in every gear and things like how fast the APV opens hava a pronounced effect in first and second gear due to the how fast the engine is accelerating.

 

patiently awaiting dyno day...

 

Me too I am taking care of misc odds and ends. Like bleeding my clutch. What a PITA! Anyone got any tricks for getting a wrench on that thing? I got some speed bleeders but still getting a wrench on that thing is a pain. Also changed tranny and diff oil. Not just for dyno day but planning for my maiden autocross event Memorial Day weekend.

 

autox in a turbo8.. have fun lol Sounds like you need a track day. I would probably run lower boost levels though under extended run times you will experience on track. things get hot fast. Make sure to get video of autox shenanigans

 

Ya I don't know what I am getting myself into but I went out to watch last weekend and it looked like fun. I'm not out for competition, just an opportunity to drive the car and have fun And there will be video as I know have my GoPro...

 

I can usually get a short closed-end 10mm wrench on it before slipping the bleeder hose on the nipple and trapping the wrench in place. You have to position the wrench properly so you can open and close the nipple within the same rotational swing. So you would typically break it open first, close lightly, position wrench, then fit bleeder hose.

You can bleed it yourself without a speedbleeder because the clutch pedal will go and stay to the floor when the bleed nipple is open. You will get a lot of exercise running back & forth around the driver door to open nipple, go to pedals and push clutch pedal to floor, go back and close nipple, go back to pedal and pull up, go back to nipple and open, and so on ... rinse and repeat

 

I hate bleeding the damn clutch on the RX-8.

 

Thanks Team, I will try a 10mm. I was using an 8mm, because that is the size of the SB, and just could not get it. Never thought about trying larger. I guess if I can catch it right it could work. It's so tight in there, I dropped my 8mm on my forehead so many times. Talk about third eye blind lol.

 

So Brettus and Fazda, you mentioned that street tunes run lean on the dyno. How lean? Is it because the dyno is going to cross load/rpm ranges due to ramp rate that a street tuned car would not see, so they don't get tuned? Or ? Just trying to keep from dying on the dyno

 

Brettus, is this still your recommendation?

https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php?p=3999857&postcount=13

 

my simple understanding is that the dyno is like going up hill, so your at higher loads at lower rpms, so you hit much different spots in the tune, that doesn't sound exactly right, but its something similar