Pettit Super Charger Owners
12-23-2010, 04:12 PM
#8302
This is my anti-spoogh modification since I purchased the car in 2006. It vents any type of moisture and keeps debris from getting inside the oil fill tube. Also, my blower vents into the oil fill line and thus far I haven't seen any oil spooghing out of the oil fill cap vent. I don't run a catch can neither.
Total cost @ $6 (breather material and silicone to keep the material it in place).
Total cost @ $6 (breather material and silicone to keep the material it in place).
12-23-2010, 07:56 PM
#8304
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I stand corrected, thank you.
6.84 at 201 mph on a 13B Rican Style
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t9AaR..._order&list=UL
6.84 at 201 mph on a 13B Rican Style
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t9AaR..._order&list=UL
12-24-2010, 12:47 PM
#8306
Dude
I'm just giving you advice of what works for me and you do as you wish with your nipples.
I think I answered your spring question earlier but just in case.
1. Spring on (softest spring you can get) for smooth high rpm to idle transition for everyday driving.
2. Spring off for competition driving.
The bypass valve functions (open/close) .00000000001 seconds faster without the spring while shifting gears in "Drive It Like You Stole It Mode" but has nothing to do with proper sealing unless you have a bad bypass o-ring or stock valve plunger. Hence my suggestion of using vaseline for internal bypass valve lubrication.
BTW, I'm just letting you know what works for me without getting too technical cuz what works on paper or NASA Jet Propulsion Laboratory type computers does NOT always works in real life applications.
Now watch the video link below a try to figure out how can you squeeze a 6.7 seconds 1/4 mile time on a crapy drag strip out of a 1.3 liter engine. It is call Rican Style "trial and error" and not computer/pocket protector R&D.
So use one, two, one hundred nipples. No spring, soft spring, coilover spring. Vaseline, KY or **** lube. Just letting you know what works for me and my 330 whp SC RX8. The rest is up to you.
Just Saying!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lBZ6T53Gfg8
I'm just giving you advice of what works for me and you do as you wish with your nipples.
I think I answered your spring question earlier but just in case.
1. Spring on (softest spring you can get) for smooth high rpm to idle transition for everyday driving.
2. Spring off for competition driving.
The bypass valve functions (open/close) .00000000001 seconds faster without the spring while shifting gears in "Drive It Like You Stole It Mode" but has nothing to do with proper sealing unless you have a bad bypass o-ring or stock valve plunger. Hence my suggestion of using vaseline for internal bypass valve lubrication.
BTW, I'm just letting you know what works for me without getting too technical cuz what works on paper or NASA Jet Propulsion Laboratory type computers does NOT always works in real life applications.
Now watch the video link below a try to figure out how can you squeeze a 6.7 seconds 1/4 mile time on a crapy drag strip out of a 1.3 liter engine. It is call Rican Style "trial and error" and not computer/pocket protector R&D.
So use one, two, one hundred nipples. No spring, soft spring, coilover spring. Vaseline, KY or **** lube. Just letting you know what works for me and my 330 whp SC RX8. The rest is up to you.
Just Saying!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lBZ6T53Gfg8
A couple of considerations here. There is no baseline dyno with no blower; not practical; all this gives is a relative idea of performance with the blower installed on your engine. There is the second consideration: the condition of your engine. Low compression/leaky seals will lower your peak power.
The AFRs are another thing entirely and indicate the map needs tweaking; you're pig rich, and your know what that does to power. The 6K rpm thing makes me think of intake resonance; I don't remember what Charles fabbed for your intake, but you may be creating a standing wave at the 6K area.
8 to 9 lbs is the most boost you'll see with the large crank pulley. You want more than that, get Cam to help you straighten out this map and then follow Juan's lead to the smaller crank pulley.
One last thing: Seattle is famous for humidity. High humidity is less 02 in the intake charge. I don't see atmospheric info on the dyno chart, but dry air will give you more power and leaner AFRs.
The AFRs are another thing entirely and indicate the map needs tweaking; you're pig rich, and your know what that does to power. The 6K rpm thing makes me think of intake resonance; I don't remember what Charles fabbed for your intake, but you may be creating a standing wave at the 6K area.
8 to 9 lbs is the most boost you'll see with the large crank pulley. You want more than that, get Cam to help you straighten out this map and then follow Juan's lead to the smaller crank pulley.
One last thing: Seattle is famous for humidity. High humidity is less 02 in the intake charge. I don't see atmospheric info on the dyno chart, but dry air will give you more power and leaner AFRs.
there's no dyno for the motor without blower because it's brand new from mazda. i know what the last motor did NA but that's rather useless now, yes?
remember the logged afrs here are off. the intake is a reasonable idea though. can anyone suggest a way to test that?
the large crank pulley is supposed to be more boost (12s according to CAM). isn't that what others are seeing?
this was done in portland; i have no idea how humid it was though.
12-24-2010, 01:08 PM
#8308
Humidity has no effect on resultant AFRs in a MAF-based EFI system.
12-25-2010, 07:07 AM
#8309
? Humidity is water vapor, not water liquid, in the air; it's already evaporated. There might be some tiny effect due to a slight change in the level of heat conduction of humid vs dry air over the MAF wire, but your conclusion remains correct imho.
12-25-2010, 04:13 PM
#8311
Which, if you have the time to waste through T&E to get to a result that R&D can produce in a fraction of the time, is awesome.
Not true. The humidity will displace some oxygen, but the greater evaporation effect on the cooling apparatus will produce more than an offset.
Humidity has no effect on resultant AFRs in a MAF-based EFI system.
Not true. The humidity will displace some oxygen, but the greater evaporation effect on the cooling apparatus will produce more than an offset.
Humidity has no effect on resultant AFRs in a MAF-based EFI system.
Humidity affects aerodynamic lift, ballistic path calculations, and how many T-shirts you go through diggin a ditch, I can't see where it doesn't have an effect on hp. If you're trying to say the volume of steam from the water vapor in the air offsets the lacke of oxygen for optimal combustion, I'll have to disagree until I can find a better resource.
I will grant, however, of all the variables, humidity has the least likely effect.
12-26-2010, 07:18 AM
#8313
A very nice write up on the subject of humidity vs density is here:
http://www.racecarbook.com/articles/humidity.shtml
(I'll have to admit though, it's the first time I've seen MAF expressed in units of grains/minute.)
http://www.racecarbook.com/articles/humidity.shtml
(I'll have to admit though, it's the first time I've seen MAF expressed in units of grains/minute.)
12-28-2010, 01:24 PM
#8314
ok so i cleaned the entire intake system, maf, etc. and set up the bypass valve signal from post blower with no spring. are you guys positioning the short tube of the bypass valve on top? and where do you buy more of those springs in different strengths?
Last edited by dondo; 12-28-2010 at 01:45 PM.
12-31-2010, 10:21 AM
#8320
I am beginning to understand what some others have been saying about tuning etc. I do appreciate their patience with my learning curve.
Motor going in this w/e--lots of little stuff to do --working on better oil pan vaccum, better ignition, repositioning my water meth nozzle, repositioning my intake temp sensor, trying to get an oil temp sensor on the hot side, and I will use 4 blue fuel injectors and replace the reds with yellows.
Little hint---when I was monitoring the intake temp using the old Pettit site for the IAT --the sensor would not reach far enough inside to be exposed to the air cleanly. So I redid that--i now use the Pettit Vaccum plug site for the temp sensor.
Also inside the Pettit UIM toward the rear rotor, the is a "bump" where the sensor site was casted- it really needs smoothing out and filing down. I did that too.
I have always not liked how slow the oil goes into the engine from the fill site so I am also addressing that.
Another thing--the TB coolant hose that a lot of people cap off? I am going to reuse that--remove my cap and install a free flowing hose back to the thermostat housing.
I am dressing the engine bay up a little at the same time cleaning up--rewiring gauges more neatly etc.
Should be up and running in the next wk or two
God willing and the creek dont rise.
Happy New Year all--stay safe.
OD
Motor going in this w/e--lots of little stuff to do --working on better oil pan vaccum, better ignition, repositioning my water meth nozzle, repositioning my intake temp sensor, trying to get an oil temp sensor on the hot side, and I will use 4 blue fuel injectors and replace the reds with yellows.
Little hint---when I was monitoring the intake temp using the old Pettit site for the IAT --the sensor would not reach far enough inside to be exposed to the air cleanly. So I redid that--i now use the Pettit Vaccum plug site for the temp sensor.
Also inside the Pettit UIM toward the rear rotor, the is a "bump" where the sensor site was casted- it really needs smoothing out and filing down. I did that too.
I have always not liked how slow the oil goes into the engine from the fill site so I am also addressing that.
Another thing--the TB coolant hose that a lot of people cap off? I am going to reuse that--remove my cap and install a free flowing hose back to the thermostat housing.
I am dressing the engine bay up a little at the same time cleaning up--rewiring gauges more neatly etc.
Should be up and running in the next wk or two
God willing and the creek dont rise.
Happy New Year all--stay safe.
OD
