marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Not to worry.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

ok---its been 2 days---got that engine in yet?
OD

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

No yet Denny and not in a hurry.

I’m still working few things before I get a call from Cam. I already have everything cleaned and ready to bolt back on.

I pulled the fuel pump out today (1.5 years since I replaced it). Took it apart and cleaned the sock too. I was thinking about buying a Walbro 255 but I never had an issue with the fuel pump. I instead purchased a digital fuel pressure gauge in order to keep an eye on the fuel pressure. If I notice fuel pressure drops or irregularities, then a Walbro 255 will go in.
Today I worked on my wiring harness (cleaning and making it more user friendly). Got an DEI tube insulation cover for the oil line (top of the engine tube) too.

I should have the wiring harness all done by Tue and then I’ll just have to wait for Cam’s call.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

I was just messing with ya dude!
its real easly to run that heater supply line under the subfrrame. Sure gives you more room on the firewall etc. Since the engine is out and all.
It is nice to not have to be in a hurry.
OD

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Doing that too, great idea Denny.

Also, will try to fab a shield ala RB to shield lim from the header.

http://www.racingbeat.com/RX7-1975-1...nts/16219.html
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olddragger

iTrader: (3)

i think most of the heat that the lim soaks is from the large footprint where it attaches to the engine?
I have the oem header and have a homemade shield and it does work but i didnt notice any reduction in temps at the intake. At one time i ran a true phenolic intake gasket and that did help a little, but the gasket was thick and I was concerned how it may have affected the apv position.
I did cut some of the casting out of the lim and that did ventilate it some--couldnt hurt.
Removing that big ole vaccum chamber maybe will help airflow over the top of the engine?
It sure did open it up back there.
Wonder if someone is ever going to replace our 1.7 blower with a 2.1 one? You could keep the same boost and have much more flow with cooler charge temps.
Interesting.

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Actually I’m thinking about installing a bypass valve on the heater core line in order to keep the coolant flow to the rear housing. There is really not much use for the heater here in Central Floriduh and I can easily open or close the valve to the heater core as needed.

dondo

iTrader: (7)

Ok maybe you guys can help me?

2004 with about 5k on a new motor from Mazda
Pettit kit with Bosch bypass valve and larger (boost up) pulley
750cc P2 Injectors
Midpipe and Catback Exhaust
BHR Ignition

I dyno'd with MM in Dec. for a tuning session and made a max of 267 on a mustang dyno. The boost gauge wasn't on for the other runs but this chart shows one where we captured boost. His AFR sensor was messed up so you can basically ignore that.



It seemed that the car wasn't making the boost it should (it made 9lbs) and Cam confirmed that something was off so I setup the bypass valve the way you guys suggested (run the signal hose off the LIM nipples with no spring) and tried it again. I couldn't feel a difference so I put it on the dyno again this weekend.

The chart is below but basically the boost was whack on the digi sensor but i confirmed 9lbs on the analog sensor but as you can see power is reading lower here (yes different day, different dyno(jet this time))

Not sure what I can do to figure this out now.. It seems that something's up but I don't know what to look for and I don't really want to keep trialing things and then going back to the dyno. I cleaned the entire intake system, MAF, etc. The plugs were new in summertime but I suppose I could try new ones if you thought it'd make a difference.. AFRs were low to mid 11s all the way up and boost was a consistent 9lbs.

Thoughts?

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Juan--why bother with a bypass valve---the heater has one of its own kinda?

Dondo---what the heck is up with that dyno dude?
Here is my thoughts OK and I am not the expert.
1st --wiggy lines everywhere after about 6K. That could be from electrical but it looks like fuel to me. Do you have your oridginal fuel pump? If you do, then may I suggest either upgrade to the 09 or install the 255 walbro?
2- Running 750's---damn thats a lot of injector for our power level?
3- what kind of grams per sec of air are you pulling?
4- I think maybe your tune is off some? Big dip at the apv opening etc? But that may be from a fuel pressure issue also?
5- what type air filter are you running? They are all NOT equal --believe me.
6- do you have a screen before the maf?
7- How does your plugs look?
8- You are at 10.5 at 4 K? Isnt that a little rich at that rpm? Those big injectors?
9- what are youre stft's etc.

With the big pulley I saw 10lbs boost on mine. I was pulling 365 g/sec airflow.
with the big pulley and a good engine you should be at least at the 300rwhp level?
Something is surly not right.
OD

Rote8

Denny, he says the AFRs were in the mid 11s, and boost was only 9 PSI.
"AFRs were low to mid 11s all the way up and boost was a consistent 9lbs."

I am thinking he is ported, leaking boost and or slipping the belt.
If the engine is ported enough, the extra flow will drop the maximum boost that is measured.

What length super charger belt is used for this dyno; can a longer belt be used?
(longer belts wrap around the top pulley more...)

Also, torque the bolt holding the top pulley to the SC itself, an impact wrench makes this easy. (don't go too hard and break the bolt)

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

The "wiggy" lines are from fluctuations in boost.

That is an appropriate upgraded size.

The dyno doesn't report the same AFRs as the OE WBO2S.

Rote8

The 2.0 and 2.2 liter blowers are a little longer than the 1.7 liter MX-417, from 257mm to 285 mm, this moves the intake for the SC back; the tab on the intake, with a bolt holding the intake to the inter-cooler side, needs relocating.



The 2.2 liter MX-422 would be awesome.
Also, the Hymee kit uses a 2.1 liter standard....

dondo

iTrader: (7)

1. that's the boost but i do have the 255 fuel pump
2. should be just right
3. >400g/s.
4. ?
5. same as phil, a small KN cone
6. yeah
7. they were new in summertime like i said but i haven't pulled them since this weekend to check them out
8. AFRs were low 11s solid
9. i've got some logs I can post up

it's not ported at all. it's a new stock motor from mazda

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Hope your K&N filter is as big a possible and no cold air intake. CAI do choke our intake. Been there, done that. Place a piece of window screen material between the air filter and the MAF intake.

Your plugs should be gap at .25 too.

Do one check/mod at a time and test before continuing on or it will be difficult to figure out what works and what does not.

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Dun!

BTW, talked to Cam yesterday and engine should be ready for pick up on saturday. Oil pressure mod should bump it to 95~100psi Thermal Bypass Pellet eliminated too.

dondo

iTrader: (7)

I have the same intake setup as phil which puts the filter above the crash bar under the front bumper cover. but one log showed MAF at 494 so it's flowing enough air? how could there be an intake issue?

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

This is why I don’t like to give advice on this forum. Again, I tried the CAI on my car twice (two different setups to include one without a filter, just a screen). Drove the car around and it ran like crap at high rpm. Sometimes things don’t work as expected though it looks good on paper. Welcome to the rotary engine world. As Denny and I stated before, just chance/mods things around one item at a time. Drive the car around and determine if it work/fix the problem or not.

Just do it!

Moon Assad

It looks as if your getting some breakup, might be electrical.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Juan is right. I also formulated the sq in of air filter area a while back and if i remember correctly it was in the 90's? That made the filter that Cam sent with the unit a little too small for high rpm use. And take it for what it is worth--the AEM dry filter allowed me to have a smoother looking chart than the holey k&n.
Too small air filter can cause turbulance in the maf pipe?

Now wait a minute---you are flowing 490 grams/sec and only at 250-275 rwhp?
Maf must be rescaled? I wonder if that too would make it more sensitive to air flow? IDK for sure.
Ok a/f's are ok then--right?
If you are having fluctuating boost problems ( Thanks MM for posting that) then that explains a lot. You say that its reading a constant 9lbs but sometimes the boost gauge cannot respond fast enought to capture the fluctuation?
I have to use the gatorback belt or i will also get a little slip with the bigger pulley.
Cam has a larger diameter idler pulley that can give you more belt wrap and more grip.
I have about 85% belt wrap on mine using the standard idler pulley.
My belt is the old twist it 90% with 2 fingers tight.
And as already said --check the supercharger pulley bolt itself---i remember someone else had a boost problem and found that their bolt was a little loose.
Again as Juan said also--one thing at a time. Record a run file (efi dude or whatever) and then go from there.

Derbucher

I was hoping i am in the right place for these questions.
1st Can some one with a boost gauge show me the exact spot where they put the tubing for the gauge inside the engine bay? 2nd has anyone up the boost, or what else did you guys do tyo get more horsepower to the wheels. Thanks for you guys help

P.S. I do have the pettit supercharger just incase anyone is wondering

california style

490 g/s! holy cr@p thats world more than me 8)

dondo

iTrader: (7)

Dude I'm not hating, just asking. I'm happy to try another intake. What would you suggest? I'll just go buy the parts and give it a shot, no prob. The only concern is if the MAF is reporting high numbers where's the power to go with them?

BHR coils and newish plugs. I could change them though; wouldn't hurt.

The digital boost gauge was all over the place but the analog one was stable except for a quick blip to 10lbs or so on the way up the rpm range.

Would you recommend a longer belt too? Or just the std gatorback belt? I'll swap the belt maybe and retighten all the bolts.

As for logging, what can I even look for? The numbers are there, it's just not putting down the power? I'd have to dyno it to look for a difference?

Rotr8

iTrader: (2)

[/QUOTE]

yes with the bigger pulley comes the longer belt, Gatorback 4050335 5PK0850

If you have been using the smaller belt you may have the same problem most of us have run into with the main shaft bearing, underneath the Pulley.





On the right is the aluminum bearing that came with the kit on the left is the one I machined from Stainless. Its only a few grams heavier and a ton stronger, haven't had boost issues since. Essentially the problem i was having wasn't belt slippage but pulley slippage and turning a groove into the bearing from it spinnig within its cavity. You can also see how much this bearing was being chewed up and chaffed on the interior edge from the belt being too tight. Just another thing you might take a look at. If you have the same issue with the bearing let me know I can probably get you a stainless one machined by the end of the week or so.

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Again, Again, Again ONE MOD/CHANGE at a time.

BTW...NOT Hate-ing.

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

If you have a US (left hand drive) RX8 then there is a hole behind the windshield washer fluid bottle that you can use to run the vacuum tube to the upper intake manifold.

Here is what I run on my car.

-Racing Beat Catalytic Converter Replacement Pipe
-Racing Beat Exhaust System
-Racing Beat Stainless Steel Brake Line Kit
-Racing Beat Stainless Steel Clutch Line
-Racing Beat Aluminum Flywheel
-Racing Beat Oil Cooler Screens
-Racing Beat Front Sway Bar
-Racing Beat Rear Say Bar
-Racing Beat Front Sway Bar End Links
-Racing Beat Gauge Kit (Water Temp, Boost/Vac, Intake Air Temp)
-Racing Beat Type II Nose Kit
-Racing Beat Side Skirts
-Racing Beat Rear Spoiler (wing)
-White Line Rear Adjustable Sway Bar End Links
-BC Racing Coilovers
-Pettit Racing Stage II Super Charger with ECU Flash
-Mazdaspeed Front Strut Bar
-Mazdaspeed Rear Strut Bar
-MazdaSpeed Shift ****
-Axial Flow Short Shifter
-Exedy Stage 1 clutch
-Personal Homemade Cooling Fan Modification
-Snow Performance Methanol Injection Kit II
-Toyo Proxes R1R 245-40-18
-G-Games 77W Wheels
-BeatRush Center Transmission Bracing
-BeatRush Arm Bracing
-BeatRush Rear Differential Support
-BeatRush Under Panel
-Mazda OEM 2009 model under panels
-Mazda OEM 2009 fuel injectors for P2 and Auxiliary position
-AEM Air Fuel Ratio gauge
-Cyberdine Engine Temperature, Intake Temperature, Boost Pressure, Water Temperature gauges
-BHR Aluminum Radiator
-Cquence F&R Crossed Drilled Brake Rotors
-Ceramic F&R Brake Pads
-Optima Red Top Battery
-MSD 8247 Ignition Coils Modification
-MSD Super Conductor 8.5mm wires
-EFI Dude Data Logger
-ExoticSpeed Header
-Greddy Oil Pan
-Buddy Club Racing Spec Condenser Grounding Kit
-Ingalls Performance Suspension “Stiffy” Engine Torque Damper
-Mazmart Water Pump and Modified Thermostat combo

Enjoy