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Old Jan 3, 2009 | 11:12 PM
  #4251  
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show me a Pettit SC making 350-360 wheel without needing water/meth or some other form of charge temp control....


Paul,
water/meth is required depending on your ambient temperature, amount of boost and the fuel quality you use. For eg. I ordered my Snow meth kit and TB spacer from BHR 6 months ago when I was planning to go turbo.
water/meth is used by lots of turbo guys including MM. it is not mandatory for Pettit. Its just a cheap insurance as nobody wants to push their motor unsafely.

For me, its a must for any FI option as the climate here is very hot and I do not have access to Octane over 91 in my country.

Also, I haven't seen any daily driven turbo'd 350-360 WHP RX-8 (without water/meth) running on the same engine for even a year.
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Old Jan 3, 2009 | 11:21 PM
  #4252  
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Originally Posted by a_ahlan
show me a Pettit SC making 350-360 wheel without needing water/meth or some other form of charge temp control....


Paul,
water/meth is required depending on your ambient temperature, amount of boost and the fuel quality you use. For eg. I ordered my Snow meth kit and TB spacer from BHR 6 months ago when I was planning to go turbo.
water/meth is used by lots of turbo guys including MM. it is not mandatory for Pettit. Its just a cheap insurance as nobody wants to push their motor unsafely.

For me, its a must for any FI option as the climate here is very hot and I do not have access to Octane over 91 in my country.

Also, I haven't seen any daily driven turbo'd 350-360 WHP RX-8 (without water/meth) running on the same engine for even a year.
im aware of the basic in's and out's of water/meth injection, including how it pertains to climate and fuel. i never said i wanted a 350whp car that didnt run water, i said i didnt want one that HAD to to keep charge temps under control.
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 03:33 AM
  #4253  
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From: Dhaka, Bangladesh
Spark Plug wire length

Ok guys, I need some advise on the spark plug wire length for yukon coils which will sit right under the air filter. Thanks.
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 07:03 AM
  #4254  
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Originally Posted by paulmasoner
Im in Honduras. I dont have the luxury of a phone line as you know it. For me to call a non military number takes an act of congress.
My wife was stationed at that same base in Honduras from Jan-Jul of last year and I got a call from her every night. She was allotted like 30 minutes per day during the week and an hour or two on weekends for "morale" calls.

Last edited by jskup1; Jan 4, 2009 at 07:38 AM.
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 07:41 AM
  #4255  
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 09:38 AM
  #4256  
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i cut my wires to about 24 inches --that leaves a little extra for positioning. I also put 45 degree boots on the coil end as 90 was too much imho.
dont worry about the length affecting spark! These things pop!
OD
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 10:02 AM
  #4257  
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Originally Posted by jskup1
My wife was stationed at that same base in Honduras from Jan-Jul of last year and I got a call from her every night. She was allotted like 30 minutes per day during the week and an hour or two on weekends for "morale" calls.
thats more or less still correct. i was very vague and techincally incorrect in that response because no one here cares about the specifics of the current poilicy on DSN and/or morale calls from Honduras.

The post as a whole is incorrect as i can make regular calls from here. The post as it applies to the current situation is not incorrect. As it stands currently: i can call anywhere local to my loosing base in HI without having to cut any red tape. I can also call anywhere local to any other military installation in the US, but it requires me to cover my *** with a ridiculously painstaking paper trail of permissions. Calling long distance via DSN connections from anywhere requires a papertrail afaik.

AFAIK from my mil experience, this is not the norm. It may be something that applies only to this base, or maybe its parts of a 'tightening of the reigns' so to speak due to historical abuse of privilages here... i dunno. If anyone here really give a crap, feel free to PM me and i'll see if i can send you copies of AFI's and local policy letters to your hearts content. otherwise the reason i only said a truth as it applies to the situation, is because thats all that matters.

I hope you were only insinuating that perhaps i didnt understand my privelages here and the policies governing them.....


Originally Posted by olddragger
i cut my wires to about 24 inches --that leaves a little extra for positioning. I also put 45 degree boots on the coil end as 90 was too much imho.
dont worry about the length affecting spark! These things pop!
OD
sorry OD... i havent changed my stance since we talked last night on my being here, I'm out pending any thing substantial and relative i get from Pettit. Just didnt like how much that looked like calling me a liar

Last edited by paulmasoner; Jan 4, 2009 at 10:05 AM.
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 10:19 AM
  #4258  
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From: Boosted...
Originally Posted by paulmasoner
show me a Pettit SC making 350-360 wheel without needing water/meth or some other form of charge temp control....

to be even MORE accurate, show me one that was or could do that 1-1.5 years ago when i made the decision that I wanted those power levels

not touchy, and I wasn't wrong... I'm pretty sure than when it comes to expressing a personal opinion/preference I don't understand how you're going to tell me I'm wrong?
I would guess the 330 RWHP by Juan was with methanol on, but we do not tune for methanol.

Walking closer to the "edge" in our tune could get us another 15 to 30 RWHP, but then we would get in trouble on the street the fateful day we buy 87 octane from the 93 octane pump. (This happens, and is why you want meth)
This low octane gas in the wrong underground tank "accident", may also be the cause of some "turbo" failures where they have tuned to the very peak HP and are not running methanol.

Last edited by Rote8; Jan 4, 2009 at 04:00 PM.
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 11:18 AM
  #4259  
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simple question for a second: has anyone SC'd a 2009 yet, and are the "new" rennys compatible w/ this kit?
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 11:21 AM
  #4260  
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no one has that posts here. they are "compatible" in that it should bolt up the same. but tuning will be different
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 11:23 AM
  #4261  
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I would assume so, you'd have to get rid of the 4pt strut bar but that doesnt seem like a big deal...
I dont think Cam or Dian have written a flash for an 09 so it might take a little while for that...
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 11:28 AM
  #4262  
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Got it. Thanks for the quick replys, guys.
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 11:32 AM
  #4263  
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Ok, question, what disperses heat better, aluminum or steel. Keeping that in mind, what's the difference between a 13b and rennisis. Not sure how common sense can be a marketing ploy, you can always lead a horse to water but you cant make it drink, you feel me???? Ok, let me explain a little bit about the exhaust ports on a renny, there 1 steel, who woulda thought, 2, they have no cooling in the area that keeps the apex seals from falling into the ports, its directly in a high heat zone of the exhaust and that's exactly were seeing causes of failure. I even spotted that when I saw the first renni apart as a for seeable problem. If that bridge area gets to hot it cant cool down fast enough so the heat causes it to swell and warp. Now, if something happens like clogging your cat, your gona have even more heat issues. Also this still apply's if you have anything in the exhaust system restricting exhaust flow like a turbo that doesn't flow as much as it should for this application. If your considering putting a turbo on your 8, remember to go with a BIG turbo. Not one that's flow restrictive at all. You can learn by listening or by feeling. Ok, argue all you want, time to go back to project street ray.
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 11:39 AM
  #4264  
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Originally Posted by Moon Assad
Ok, question, what disperses heat better, aluminum or steel. Keeping that in mind, what's the difference between a 13b and rennisis. Not sure how common sense can be a marketing ploy, you can always lead a horse to water but you cant make it drink, you feel me???? Ok, let me explain a little bit about the exhaust ports on a renny, there 1 steel, who woulda thought, 2, they have no cooling in the area that keeps the apex seals from falling into the ports, its directly in a high heat zone of the exhaust and that's exactly were seeing causes of failure. I even spotted that when I saw the first renni apart as a for seeable problem. If that bridge area gets to hot it cant cool down fast enough so the heat causes it to swell and warp. Now, if something happens like clogging your cat, your gona have even more heat issues. Also this still apply's if you have anything in the exhaust system restricting exhaust flow like a turbo that doesn't flow as much as it should for this application. If your considering putting a turbo on your 8, remember to go with a BIG turbo. Not one that's flow restrictive at all. You can learn by listening or by feeling. Ok, argue all you want, time to go back to project street ray.
thanks Moon, thats actually exactly what i was looking for.

Happy New years to everyone, dueces!
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 11:40 AM
  #4265  
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Moon get back to work you showed up to the battlefield a day too late... ha before you tell me to get back to sketching just remember I can have my sketch book in front of my computer seeya
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 11:54 AM
  #4266  
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It shouldn't be a "battlefield". It should be a place everyone can come to discuss ideas, theories, get solid info,etc...
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 01:40 PM
  #4267  
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sorry, its not really a battlefield the expression is "you showed up to the battlefield a day too late" whatever,,,
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 02:41 PM
  #4268  
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Originally Posted by paulmasoner
thanks Moon, thats actually exactly what i was looking for.

Happy New years to everyone, dueces!
Yeh the ? is whats big enough though. Like with the Diasios, it was a combonation of keeping the engine temps under a certain temp and a turbo that wasnt making any boost under 5 k to keep the motor alive. Also put it this way, the turbos that are getting mounted between the motor and fire wall arnt even close to being being big enough. And dont even try turning up the boost past a certain point because it also has ill effects. Theres rules, the ? is what is the best combo to keep your motor alive withought having to sacrifice drivability. Reving my motor past 5 K all day isnt one id be willing to deal with in a daily driver on the street, but thats just me.
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 02:53 PM
  #4269  
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Originally Posted by Moon Assad
Yeh the ? is whats big enough though. Like with the Diasios, it was a combonation of keeping the engine temps under a certain temp and a turbo that wasnt making any boost under 5 k to keep the motor alive. . .
/\ can see this being true of a race car . A street car is another thing entirely
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 05:03 PM
  #4270  
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good info Moon--nice summation.
how about waffling the exhaust and lead plug jackets?
OD
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 06:00 PM
  #4271  
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Originally Posted by Rotr8
sorry, its not really a battlefield the expression is "you showed up to the battlefield a day too late" whatever,,,
No worries.
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 07:30 PM
  #4272  
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Originally Posted by Brettus
/\ can see this being true of a race car . A street car is another thing entirely
Yeh, on a street car its encapsled in an egg carton, no place for air to go and it gets even hotter with more temp variations, what is it on a street car 180 to 230. See, I never got my car above 210. Keep it cool or go back to school. The more temp varation you have the more parts in your engine flex, warp, swell, crack. Trust me, it only makes sense. Its like if you over heat a aluminum piston engine. most of the time it tends to warp things. You can get away with it if its steal but in this case, not enough. This is just basic knowledge, atleast for me. Well, an answer to the statment you made, there both relitive. Either race or street. If it lasts on the track, it also does so on the street.
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 09:09 PM
  #4273  
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Originally Posted by Moon Assad
Ok, question, what disperses heat better, aluminum or steel. Keeping that in mind, what's the difference between a 13b and rennisis. Not sure how common sense can be a marketing ploy, you can always lead a horse to water but you cant make it drink, you feel me???? Ok, let me explain a little bit about the exhaust ports on a renny, there 1 steel, who woulda thought, 2, they have no cooling in the area that keeps the apex seals from falling into the ports, its directly in a high heat zone of the exhaust and that's exactly were seeing causes of failure. I even spotted that when I saw the first renni apart as a for seeable problem. If that bridge area gets to hot it cant cool down fast enough so the heat causes it to swell and warp. Now, if something happens like clogging your cat, your gona have even more heat issues. Also this still apply's if you have anything in the exhaust system restricting exhaust flow like a turbo that doesn't flow as much as it should for this application. If your considering putting a turbo on your 8, remember to go with a BIG turbo. Not one that's flow restrictive at all. You can learn by listening or by feeling. Ok, argue all you want, time to go back to project street ray.
May I have permission to publish the above on Wikipedia? Just kidding.

Good info Moon.
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 09:25 PM
  #4274  
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Originally Posted by Rote8
I would guess the 330 RWHP by Juan was with methanol on, but we do not tune for methanol.
Correct and Cam will not tune my car for meth nor will tune my car to run on the edge.

Just part of his philosophy (I guess). I’m not just another customer but a (by name basis) Pettit customer. Same applies to few other vendors.

Last edited by marsredr100; Jan 4, 2009 at 09:27 PM.
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 08:00 AM
  #4275  
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Originally Posted by marsredr100
Correct and Cam will not tune my car for meth nor will tune my car to run on the edge.

Just part of his philosophy (I guess). I’m not just another customer but a (by name basis) Pettit customer. Same applies to few other vendors.
^
yeah, what he said
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