That's correct, meth always on except a few miles before arriving at destination to flush the intake from its corrosive properties. I'm running a 100 ml nozzle right after the TB.

 

Juan, could you do some tests to see which nozzle placement give the best intake temp?

 

That bodes well for BHR's stuff.

 

Can't do Adam. My air intake temp sensor sits just before my secondary nozzle (currently not in use). Therefore, if I hook it, it will not register the intake temp.

Just to let you know on yesterdays evening WOT run the ambient temp was 69 degrees and the air intake temp was 107 degrees right after the run.

 

Here are all the EFI Dude readings in one thread for your amusement.

 

Here is a picture of my current setting. Basically it initiates at 3 and goes full power right after that due to a small (100 ml) nozzle.

Also, notice my washer fluid level after 200 hundred miles (about 150 highway and 50 city/WOT). I think that the washer fluid bottle is enough if you are planning on using the 100 ml nozzle.

 

Is that the OEM washer bottle, or did you purchase that from snow??

 

OEM

 

Okay... Have you done any tests to see the difference in temps w/ the nozzle after the MAF turned on and off??

 

Ugly air box base (waffle pattern) eliminator. For those of you that would like to eliminate the dirt catch waffle pattern air box base. Not shown is aluminum heat shield material that I contact cemented to the back of the shield to keep some of the radiator heat away from the air filter/intake. Ram air flows directly in front of the air filter when at speed. Enjoy

 

Will do this evening with pixs just for you.

 

You da man.

 

Regarding IAT, I just pulled the IAT in the UIM and tested the resistance against the stock one with both sitting at room temp. They may have been okay for the Int-X, but its not compatible with the stock PCM and your IAT readings as read from OBD2 will be off. It looks like the one Pettit's used is a generic MSD IAT, but it unfortunately doesn't have a NTC thermistor temp curve that is identical to stock. In my experience, it looks like its about 10-15 degF off ambient at startup, it could be more or less as the temp goes up from there. The characteristic curves of thermistors are not at all linear.

I'm planning on transplanting the thermistor from the MAF into the MSD IAT, but I believe BHR may have a better solution in the works.

 

I'm not using the Pettit IAT sender that came with the kit. I'm using the one that came with the Cyberdyne RED Ambient Air Temperature Part # A024E061Y-Black Bezel. I just went outside to compare the AMB temp (85 degrees) and the Cyberdyde IAT (81 degrees) after letting the car idle for one minute. BTW the car was started with a cold engine. Basically there is a 4 degree difference between the two of them.

 

If you want to work out the curve, I can rescale it in the AP.

 

hey Juan...looks like youre building LTFTs...

 

Roger that because I haven't reset the room fuse since I left Pettit about 200+ miles ago. Just wanted to verify if and how much LTFT my car is building.

 

Here you go:

Ambient temp 76 degrees and IAT 115 degrees after WOT from 1st to 4th gear meth on.

Cruised for a couple of minutes to bring all temps back to stabilize temperatures.

Ambient temp 76 degrees and IAT 127 degrees after WOT from 1st to 4th gear meth off.

See pixs.

 

Very nice. Have you tried a larger nozzle in the same location to see if there is a difference??

 

WIth just a 100 nozzle! Pre blower! Great work Juan---you da man.
Your intake fab looks smooth too--really good job. i did something similar but mine is with a different material. heat shielding aluminum stuff. then I have the Mazsport coils on top of that. Turned out nice.
Our ww tank---is it a 2 quart? If that is all you have used then maybe i dont need the 7 quart ? Typically its about 30 miles of haul ***.
The more i read and learn about the water meth the more I like it for our car. Rich a/f seems to be a little overrated?
I have torn down my other engine and I sure have learned a lot. Not good i am afraid. But i dont want to take away from what you are doing here---keep going man--really--really good.
I little hint--take washer off the leading plug and go barless.
olddragger

 

What's really neat is that if you are using water injection strictly for detonation-avoidance, then you need no alky to do the job and you need no huge nozzles, either. On the other hand, using a slightly richer A/F than MBT will remove the need for having to re-fill a washer jug all the time. The reason alcohol started to be used was to try and restore a bit of the power lost by using water rather than the proper fuel for a given situation.

 

Nope and I'm not going to bother because the dyno showed that the whp went down more so with the larger nozzle than with the smaller nozzle.

 

Exactly. That is why I let the car built LTFT and ran the crap out of it this evening with no meth and no detonation heard/noticed. The meth will become useful/necessary once we create a more aggressive flash for the car which I’ll be able to switch back and forth depending if I'm just cruising or at an AutoX event.

 

....and with upcoming toys, we'll go even further than that!

 

Also nothing like constant steam cleaning. See my entry into my carbon lock thread.
OD