good news on the LTFTs: they are at zero and not building at this point...
MAF = 285 grms/sec at 7700 rpms

im going to do some testing for the next several weeks on this...at this point, im using my home made MAF housing that moon and i made from the factory box...

if your memories need reminding, we cut off the tube from the box and used a coupler to the TB...it also has a screen and the typhoon...

I do have the new Pettit MAF housing...im going to hold off on installing till i get my initial data

leaving those pieces in place, im going to compare LTFTs and MAF....

 

Thats the plug going to the a vac solenoid that is no longer needed. The easyest way to prime the IC pump is pull the return line on the water tank wich should be completly full and blow into it, then hook it up really quickly before the water gets to your mouth. I works every time for me on the first try but it might take another attemt or 2. Dont suck on it or your gona get a mouth full of water. Trust me on that, it dosnt taste all that great especialy if you have mixed somekind of antifreeze in. Theres no spacific level 3/4 to full should be fine. The pump is hard to hear if its running or not, keep that in mind.

 

Moon, are you reffering to the line between the reservoir and the top of the aftercooler?

 

Yes it is.

 

Cool. I needed to reprime my pump. That worked out nicely.

 

Hopfully you spit and didnt swollow, lol.

 

could be the a/c plug? right area. Did you still have the stock intake on before the swap?
The VDI stands for Variable dynamic intake. Its a valve in the lower intake (right at the start og the lower intake) that opens after about 7.2K to balance out air flow in t1st part of the lower intake runners. we dont need it anymore and can actually cause a little problem with boost.
olddragger

 

You can also drain the system through that tube making it alot easier then trying to empty the tank another way.

 

Actually nothing came out......must've been dehydrated

 

Thanks. I forgot to ask it when talking with Cam.

 

Well we started the car today and actually took it our for a quick test drive. Is it normal for the CEL to come on? IT would flash while driving and be solid during idle or sometimes turn off while at idle. I onle drove it for a few miles so I may just need to drive it. Is it normal for the CEl to come on? I kept the rpm's down to 6500/7000 and actually got scared at one point when I head what would be best alled a maching gun popping noise at about 6000 rpm. It almost seemed like like it was from the exhaust but couldn't really tell. I've never heard detonation so I was paranoid and didn't want to push it. I'm wondering it I just need to drive it awhile to allow everything to set.

 

What management are you running? I'd be paranoid as well. You don't want to leave any bits behind on the street! I hope you get it sorted out.

Cheers,
Hymee.

 

I've never heard anything like that. If you don't have your own scan tool, go to your local autozone and have them scan it.

 

What you heard was PROBABLY detonation. It sounds a bit like squirrels on coke playing ping pong (or a very high pitched machine gun tinking sound). DO NOT DRIVE IT UNDER LOAD LIKE THAT.

It will not detonate with the correct gas and engine management. Talk to Cam or Moon before putting the car under load again. Find out why it is doing that before you put load on it again.

Just my thoughts............

 

Dog, start checking for vacuum leaks, and like morkus said, get a SCAN tool on it before you drive it under load any more.

 

True sounds like detonation to me too and as before DO NOT DRIVE UNDER LOAD(full throttle) UNTIL YOU HAVE FOUND OUT WHAT IS GOING ON. You could easily blow an engine. I describe it like an aluminum can being crushed. LOTS of things can cause detonation:
1- bad coils/plugs/wires
2- temps
3- a/f ratio
4- timing
5- low fuel pressures
6- bad injectors
etc.
Welcome to the world of FI!
Do you have the flash or the INT X?
If you have the flash--what maf pipe are you using? Pettit's?
If you have the flash and have a cat then no cel is supposed to show. If you have the INTX a cel will show but not a blinking one! Something is wrong.
Go through it with a fine tooth comb.
DOnt get discouraged--it takes a little while to get it sorted out. Every car is different.
Olddragger

 

Blinking cel could be a misfire. Misfire with detenation is a

 

Check your coils just incase. To do so look at the epoxy on the bottom of each one. If its totaly black its fine but if you see any discoloration or little pin holes replace them. Dont go buy the factory test method, they can sometime test ok but be totaly screwed. The problem weve found that if there bad they might fire at the wrong time usauly at high RPMs.

 

The condition of the epoxy on the bottom of the coils is meaningless (unless it is actually melted or cracked, which I have never seen).
Besides the FSM check, you should verify the coils with a timing light through the RPM band.
If its bad, there will be misses.

That said, unless a lead coil isn't firing at all, you won't get detonation from a bad coil.

Its very likely that you simply have too much timing advance under boost at the torque peak.

 

The flashing light is most probably the crank trigger familiarization which is causing syc errors. You need to do the pedal dance (call Cam if you do not know what this is and he will explain). I've not driven one for extended distances with the crank sync error (MIL flashing) so I do not know if this is causing the detonation but I would think it a possibility if the PCM is actually (a little) confused about crankshaft position.

Before anyone has you second guessing your tuning, get a simple data logger and examine the car's behavior for yourself. A lot of these tuners tend to go at each other trying to put the other one down so they look bigger/better/bader. If I were you, I would log timing and mixture and make sure you are comfortable with the numbers. You can find a good logger at www.efidude.com. It is the one Cam uses and it is nice and affordable. You can check it out by installing the software right off the site for free and importing a data log. I'll try to find one and post it here for you (and anyone else that wants to see what the logger looks like).

You can also get a reflasher option for the logger so Cam can email you the latest calibration files.

 

to all sc owers. i just wanted to know how well the sc took to the rx8 and was it worth it and if you could do it again would you say na or go turbo?

 

The "Random Misfire Detected" is one of those CEL's (MIL's to be precise) that can be temporary, and go away. But I'm pretty sure that after 3 "hits" it stays on.

If you have a good scan tool it will also display freeze frame data when the MIL was activated.

Cheers,
Hymee.

 

To quote the tuner when we had my 2nd prototype on the dyno: "She's got some grunt".

This guy has tuned 2 different rotaries to 6 second passes. There is only a handful of them in the world. And he was the first to tune a 200MPH pass. So I tend to listen to what he says from time to time

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DrWScxHBnoc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OqCkS...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RomCIKez7Lw Grandad is the one who says "1499.2 - Ahh what a f@@kka" LOL.


Cheers,
Hymee.

PS - Those strictly race cars (20B, methanol) were turboed as well. So I guess Grandad isn't too biased.

 

Ok, let me clarify about the coil issue. If you have discoloration in your coils it meens there getting weak. If you start seeing little spots it meens there grounding out to the bracket and somtimes juming through the bracket to another coil causing it to fire at the wrong time= ping or the wrong coil to fire. Ive seen it first hand on the dyno with lights off. If you remove a set of coils from the bracket spacing them close to each other youl see a intermitant spark between the two if the coils are bad. I dont recomend you try this but its how I found out what was happining. It happenes at full load and higher rpm.

 

I have the flash. I'm going to scan it over the next day or so and sort everything out. I did look at your scanner but it looks like it isn't compatable with every car.

I'm using the new Pettit MAF and the Flash with the High Flow CAT. I changed the Plugs, wires and Coils so they shouldn't be the problem. One factor to this could have been it looks like the pump lost its prime and wasn't cooling the charge. I've got a AFR gauge but was messing around with it and had it on some screwed up setting without realizing it until it was to late. That would have been a very usefull piece of info for me to have but....