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The newest 100% bolt on Greddy Hybrid turbocharger!

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Old Sep 18, 2009 | 04:55 PM
  #476  
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Originally Posted by ssspeedfreak
Ok Great, now with this turbo I guess the BHR radiator is moved up on my list.
Whether water cooled or oil cooled you should have some form of cooling upgrade on your list .
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Old Oct 13, 2009 | 02:00 AM
  #477  
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From: san mateo
i want to upgrade your turbo
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 04:59 PM
  #478  
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Regarding water cooled turbos:

Attached Thumbnails The newest 100% bolt on Greddy Hybrid turbocharger!-water_cooling_operation.jpg  
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 03:57 PM
  #479  
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From: Kyle, Tx
Well, got the car up and running about a month ago and took it for its first WOT run last night on MM's 4.0.2 map and it only read 4psi on my boost gauge. Checked all my couplers and hoses and everything seems tight. As far as I remember, the wastegate pole is at the setting you shipped it at, I remember it was like all the way back, with about one thread showing. I have my boost gauge tapped into the hose on top of the manifold that looks like a handle. Is that a good source? Vacuum reads a good 20kpa at idle so i would assume its a good source. Just not real sure what else to look at......
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 07:05 PM
  #480  
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Originally Posted by PhantomRX-8
Well, got the car up and running about a month ago and took it for its first WOT run last night on MM's 4.0.2 map and it only read 4psi on my boost gauge. Checked all my couplers and hoses and everything seems tight. As far as I remember, the wastegate pole is at the setting you shipped it at, I remember it was like all the way back, with about one thread showing. I have my boost gauge tapped into the hose on top of the manifold that looks like a handle. Is that a good source? Vacuum reads a good 20kpa at idle so i would assume its a good source. Just not real sure what else to look at......
boost gauge goes in the vfad nipple under the UIM

do you have a boost controller?

you may have to preload the actuator arm a bit
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 11:20 PM
  #481  
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From: Kyle, Tx
Originally Posted by 05rex8
boost gauge goes in the vfad nipple under the UIM

do you have a boost controller?

you may have to preload the actuator arm a bit
I have the BOV going to the VFAD nipple. I have a boost controller but its not in yet. I was hoping to just run it on the wastegate for awhile until I was ready to get to PTP to get tuned, then put it in. Just need a break from working on the car for awhile! lol.

As far as I know, I have the actuator arm to highest setting. When I get home from work in the morning Ill get under there and take another look. Nothing on this car has gone right! Was just hoping I had good flow from the exhaust and thats where the 3lbs went but thats a lot of flow, dont think RB is that good! Thanks for the reply!
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 11:26 PM
  #482  
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T the boost gauge and bov together and connect to the vfad nipple. Your BC signal will come from there as well.
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 11:55 PM
  #483  
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From: Kyle, Tx
Originally Posted by 05rex8
T the boost gauge and bov together and connect to the vfad nipple. Your BC signal will come from there as well.
So Im going to double T the same line? Wouldnt that interfere with everything else? Sorry if thats a dumb question but putting all 3 on one line never crossed my mind.
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 11:56 PM
  #484  
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nah, it will be fine
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Old Oct 20, 2009 | 01:37 PM
  #485  
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I have a manual boost controller and cant get it to increase the boost. Its hooked up between the boost feed and the waste gate. I can tell the boost in coming on faster which means there is more boost in the piping but it wont go over 5lbs. How is it hooked up wrong?
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Old Oct 20, 2009 | 02:03 PM
  #486  
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From: Kyle, Tx
Originally Posted by MFslacker22
I have a manual boost controller and cant get it to increase the boost. Its hooked up between the boost feed and the waste gate. I can tell the boost in coming on faster which means there is more boost in the piping but it wont go over 5lbs. How is it hooked up wrong?
So youre short on boost too with the BNR turbo to huh??? Im only getting 4psi. I too have a manual boost controller that i wasnt going to use but I am going to put it on and see if I can get it to boost a little higher until I get my EBC.
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Old Oct 20, 2009 | 04:21 PM
  #487  
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From: Y-cat-o NZ
read this ....

https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...22&postcount=1
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 09:32 AM
  #488  
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Originally Posted by PhantomRX-8
So youre short on boost too with the BNR turbo to huh??? Im only getting 4psi. I too have a manual boost controller that i wasnt going to use but I am going to put it on and see if I can get it to boost a little higher until I get my EBC.
Make sure you don't have boost leaks. T bolt clamps don't seal up so if you have those, put worm/screw clamps on and take it out for a spin. With the stock actuator, the upgrade is good for atleast 10-11 psi with boost controller.

If you have a stock turbo, the turbo will only flow 5-6 psi at upper RPM.

If you can take your fender liner out, you cant get to the actuator arm. You can shorten that wastegate rod, you will add spring tension to the actuator. It will up the boost a couple psi.

Bryan@BNR
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 10:40 AM
  #489  
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ooh im running t-bolt clamps too..i thought they are a better solution being they dont back out?
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 12:16 PM
  #490  
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hmm...I have T-Bolt Clamps on the way because I finally found out that I was having a boost leak with a split coupler that connects to the throttle body.

So Bryan should I just use the Screw Clamps I have now?
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 02:37 PM
  #491  
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From: Kyle, Tx
Originally Posted by Bryan@BNR
Make sure you don't have boost leaks. T bolt clamps don't seal up so if you have those, put worm/screw clamps on and take it out for a spin. With the stock actuator, the upgrade is good for atleast 10-11 psi with boost controller.

If you have a stock turbo, the turbo will only flow 5-6 psi at upper RPM.

If you can take your fender liner out, you cant get to the actuator arm. You can shorten that wastegate rod, you will add spring tension to the actuator. It will up the boost a couple psi.

Bryan@BNR
I dont think its a boost leak cause it holds dead ***** on at 4psi. I would think if I had leak, one run would be 5 psi, another run would be 3psi and so on. I do have t-bolts, youre serious not to use them? Everyone busts a nut saying how great they are so thats what I went with. I dont like them cause of the long rods left over when theyre tight but Im more worried about them doing their job. Guess Ill have to order to screw clamps. Those wont slice silicon will they?
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 03:01 PM
  #492  
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From: Y-cat-o NZ
Originally Posted by Bryan@BNR

If you can take your fender liner out, you cant get to the actuator arm. You can shorten that wastegate rod, you will add spring tension to the actuator. It will up the boost a couple psi.
]
I got jumped on from a great height for suggesting doing this in a dedicated thread about it .Works great however .
Note :Any shortening the rod will close off the wastegate to an extent .

Anyhow - I left the info on what to do available in the thread i linked above ....
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 05:34 PM
  #493  
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Originally Posted by PhantomRX-8
I dont think its a boost leak cause it holds dead ***** on at 4psi. I would think if I had leak, one run would be 5 psi, another run would be 3psi and so on. I do have t-bolts, youre serious not to use them? Everyone busts a nut saying how great they are so thats what I went with. I dont like them cause of the long rods left over when theyre tight but Im more worried about them doing their job. Guess Ill have to order to screw clamps. Those wont slice silicon will they?
they will slice silicone couplers if you are not careful

the t-bolt clamps should be fine as long as you have them on correctly; I've never heard of any problems using them
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 06:30 PM
  #494  
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From: Kyle, Tx
Originally Posted by 05rex8
they will slice silicone couplers if you are not careful

the t-bolt clamps should be fine as long as you have them on correctly; I've never heard of any problems using them
I was going to say, I have those things cranked pretty damn good on there, theres no way they are leaking. Like I said, I dont think its a leak because Im getting dead flush 4psi everytime. If it was a leak, it wouldnt be consistant. Ill just put the boost controller on and fix it that way. Thanks for everyones help!
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Old Oct 22, 2009 | 10:26 AM
  #495  
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Originally Posted by 05rex8
they will slice silicone couplers if you are not careful

the t-bolt clamps should be fine as long as you have them on correctly; I've never heard of any problems using them

When you start running 20 plus PSI you will definately leak! :D. I had T bolts on my 1st gen RX7 and you could see gaps between the coupler and the pipe on almost every connection. I also had those clamps tight. Put worm clamps on there and no more gapola.
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Old Oct 22, 2009 | 10:27 AM
  #496  
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Phantom, what if you didn't have a boost leak and it was dead nuts on 7 psi? lol

I don't think you will kill the turbo with minor boost leaks. The turbo has an upgrade thrust section in it that is way better than the mitsubishi thrust. It would be just 5 dollars in clamps to swap out if you decide too. Put that boost controller on and have some fun!

Last edited by Bryan@BNR; Oct 22, 2009 at 10:31 AM.
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Old Oct 22, 2009 | 03:16 PM
  #497  
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From: Kyle, Tx
Originally Posted by Bryan@BNR
Phantom, what if you didn't have a boost leak and it was dead nuts on 7 psi? lol

I don't think you will kill the turbo with minor boost leaks. The turbo has an upgrade thrust section in it that is way better than the mitsubishi thrust. It would be just 5 dollars in clamps to swap out if you decide too. Put that boost controller on and have some fun!
If I had 7psi using the wastegate only I wouldnt be bitching! Lol. I was hoping the car would just work without the b/c for awhile cause Im sick of working on it. But I guess it never stops!! Once I get the b/c on, im gonna head to PTP to get tuned. Going for as high as this turbo will take me. Everything is setup appropriately.
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Old Oct 22, 2009 | 03:32 PM
  #498  
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Originally Posted by PhantomRX-8
Once I get the b/c on, im gonna head to PTP to get tuned.
when that does not work and you only get high boost low in the rpm range - try reading the link I posted .....

Last edited by Brettus; Oct 22, 2009 at 04:08 PM.
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Old Oct 22, 2009 | 07:38 PM
  #499  
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Originally Posted by Bryan@BNR
When you start running 20 plus PSI you will definately leak! :D. I had T bolts on my 1st gen RX7 and you could see gaps between the coupler and the pipe on almost every connection. I also had those clamps tight. Put worm clamps on there and no more gapola.
lol thankfully (i think...)none of us can run 20 psi; unless we want to blow the engine :D
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Old Oct 22, 2009 | 07:40 PM
  #500  
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From: Kyle, Tx
Originally Posted by Brettus
when that does not work and you only get high boost low in the rpm range - try reading the link I posted .....
Ya, man, I get it, I read it. But before I go and start cutting **** up, I want to explore all my options. When I ordered this turbo, no one ever said I had to cut the arm to get the wastegate setting of 7 psi. Right now, theres just something stupid going on, I just need to find what it is. Im gonna try and tap my boost gauge into the BOV line, maybe thats a better signal and will show my missing boost, I dont know. I get what youre saying, but I dont just start cutting **** because it worked for someone else.
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