Does anyone know if this part replaces the stock exhaust shrouds or just goes over it? And are these reps of a much better product? I need to get new shrouds, but if these replace them, I'd rather have these

http://www.ebay.com/itm/04-08-Mazda-...2cb406&vxp=mtr

 

Anyone?

 

They look like they have the mounting tabs on them..so likely a replacement...

You have to buy a set and let us know how they fit

 

/\ replaces

 

Why isn't this thread a sticky?

 

how are the rotors on a 2006 rx-8 numbered? is the front one #1, and the rear one (closest to the firewall) # 2? I have a misfire and can't afford all the coils at once, so i was gonna get two for the one rotor, wanted to save some time and energy and get the right one..changed plugs already...wires next

 

Pretty sure, rotor 1 is the one closest to the front of the car. Just so you know, you can find coils at autozone or O'reilly's for around $30. They also have a lifetime warranty, so you can replace them whenever you feel like it. I replace them once a year.

 

I've got a set of the O'reilly's coils that I'm thinking about swapping for new ones. Do you just walk in with all four and claim that they've all failed? Or can you simply just tell them you want to swap for new ones?

 

Yeah just tell them that they are very weak and your car has trouble starting. Tell them you've just replaced plugs so you're sure it's the coils. They haven't given me any trouble.

 

So anyone have advice on removing the trunk liner attached to the actual trunk lid? i have all the push pins out, but can't seem to find out how to take the handle out. The handle is the last thing thats holding it on.

 

The handle snaps in/out... With the trunk open, pull (or gently pry) on the side closer to the interior of the car. Don't pry on the side of the handle closest to you, as that side is anchored in and will break the tabs.

 

My Question:

What does the "ws-50" in "Blizzak ws-50 tires"?

I want to buy them for winter but do not understand what the "ws" stands for.

Thanks in advance.

 

I'm pretty sure that's just their model number... WS50 is their second generation of that particular model, WS60 is their third generation, and WS70 is their fourth generation.

 

Winter Snow?

 

Because then even less of the newbs would see and read it.

 

I know mixing oil grades is fine but has anyone had any crazy **** happen when doing so? Like putting a bag of popcorn in the microwave the wrong way up?

It's a serious question. I might shift to a heavier oil for the summer.

 

until I switched to idemitsu's 10w-30 rotary oil, I used regular 5w-20 you get at autozone.

Since the car burns oil I was adding a lot of 10w-30 to my 5w-20. Ran fine, didnt notice any difference at all. I was wondering the same question a while ago, and people said its safe/fine.

 

Thinking about buying an AEM cai, I was just curious if leaving it on in the winter would hurt it? since the "cold air" isn't exactly needed when there's snow on the ground.

Any input would be appreciated, I really don't want to buy it if I have to change it every year. lol

Thanks

 

U will be fine, u can mix them anyway u want

I use 20w50 most of the time, sometimes 10w40 or 0w40 during winter, thats if i have anything in stock tho

And ur car will work fine even if its -30 outside, u should worry about freezing ur *** more than ur intake's air temp

 

Ok my turn again, I may be trading my wheels for stockers plus cash like just removing complete wheel along with rim and placing on other car. I just got 4 tpms sensors from dealer (new) will these sensors stay on my car or will they go with my wheels/tires? I'm not sure how it works...

 

My next dumb question:

Even after my new starter, new yellowtop battery, new coils, plugs, and wires, the car hesitates for a split second at startup. It sounds like the engine just doesnt want to spin for like a split second before the starter kicks its *** and tells it to go. And on warm starts it starts slower, but almost sounds like it doesnt get as much fuel as it normally does, like a more empty sounding engine.

Anyways, Im going in for a compression test on monday at a cooley mazda dealer. They are charging me a "couple" hours of labor.

I just told them I want a compression done of my rotary engine rx8. He said ok and put me down on the schedule. I explained my situation and said "Well do you want me to diagnose the problem? or just a compression test?"

#1 My question is basically this: If you get a test done and your engine fails or has low numbers, do they just have to replace it? Or do I have to like schedule a seperate appointment or something to have the engine "diagnosed" with low compression. It just sounded strange the way he said it, like if the test comes out failing/low, its just for my own personal reference and they wont do anything about it. (This dealer isnt where I bought the car, and itll be the first time going to them).

do you have any advice on what actions I should take if the numbers come out failing? my engine warranty is good for 2 years.

#2 Also, I've heard many Non-mazda mechanics do compression tests on piston engines, but dont have the correct tools for a rotary engine. Will the mazda dealer generally know what to do with this engine? the lady I spoke to at the service office seemed a bit hesitant and said you need the special tools and shes not sure if she has them, but then the gentleman I spoke to over the phone yesterday in service said "Oh sure no problem. We can do that!", so I'm a bit nervous lol.

Thanks for the info in advance!

 

I don't know much about your car besides what you said you've done in the post that I'm quoting. If you still have the hot start issue after changing all of that then there's a possibility that your engine "could" be losing compression. When you floor it does it drag or seem like its not going as fast as it should? I'm no rotary expert but I just remember the symptoms I had after changing coils, plugs, wires, battery, starter etc.

A Mazda dealer should have the necessary tools to test compression on your rotary and I paid 125 for my test in Houston tx. When my numbers didn't meet mazdas expectations the dealer called me and recommended a replacement engine and that it would be completely covered by Mazda.

Correct me if I'm wrong but the engine core warranty is either 8 years from original production date or 100,000 miles which ever comes first. I personally feel like you "may" need another engine but you never know, could be a clogged cat. Do you have any check engine lights?

 

I dont have any check engine lights, but i do get a considerable bumpiness during idle once the engine gets warm. after startup its very smooth but once it gets warmed up i hear lots of blips and small vibrations at idle.

As far as the pickup/fastness. After changing the coils, plugs, and wires, I feel a lot more pickup in the lower RPMS, but I feel like once I hit above 5k now, it really doesnt offer any torque. This may just be how the car is, but when I see the RPMS go from about 6.5k-9k, the pickup kind of pauses and becomes less apparent.

 

^Did you ever visually inspect inside your cat converter?
If you can't do that, then take it to Mazda. Tell them to do a compression test and check the cat. If you are under 80k and are still under 8yr, then you are covered for cat. If you fail compression, you get a new engine.
If none of the above, you pay out of pocket.

 

It depends on what type of TPMS they gave you. As I understand it's a strip inside the wheel but outside the tire. The tire exerts a pressure on the wheel which this strip reads and sends the wireless signal to a computer in your car.

If you sell your tires mounted on the wheels you are selling the TPMS too.

Since TPMS uses a universal standard since late 90's they all should be compatible with the computer.