I don't know for sure, but I think the system can sense slippage of wheels and not actual brake functions.
It applies braking when traction is lost, I don't think it can compensate for malfunctions.

 

Also, be sure your parking brake cable is moving freely, and adjusted correctly.

 

I think you are probably overthinking it a little bit. With your front right seized open, your rears are naturally doing a lot more work than normal, and therefore getting hotter than normal.

The fronts are responsible for about 80% of the work. When you lose the braking power of one, the others have to pick up the slack.

What probably happened, is your front right seized and dragged until enough friction material was worn off the pads to stop making contact. That caused your gas mileage problems. Then the rears had to be responsible for more braking as you mashed the pedal harder to brake in more or less the same distance. All this was gradual, so you didn't notice it much.

BigCajun makes another good point. Be sure to check that as well.

If I were you and going to rebuild one caliper, I would just do them all since the parts are very inexpensive.

 

Hello everyone!

Just want to say thanks to whoever has helped me answer some questions but I do have another

My heat rarely comes on and when it's cranked it's still cold, sometimes i play around with it and does work. is this the heater core? does it need to be completely replaced? ive seen some DIY's on fixing some wires and apparently that works?

also my coolant light flashes sometimes when i'm driving, but the coolant is pretty full.. is this a serious problem?
thank you !

 

There is a known issue with the heat controls having cold solder joints and poor connections..look for the DIY fix

The coolant level sensor is a very common problem. Either check the coolant lots...or pony up the cash for a new bottle

 

Is there any issue with leaving a bluetooth OBDII reader plugged in fulltime? Its getting tiresome plugging and unplugging the darn thing. Does it draw power when the car is off?

 

It does, but it's not going to be an issue. Just leave it it in, you're more likely to break the plug by removing it each time than you are too discharge your battery any noticeable amount.

When not broadcasting I think they only draw like 1-5mA.

 

So for about two weeks I had my car sitting in the garage because the clutch pedal went out so I was waiting for the part to come in so I could fix it. Short story is I replaced the pedal, started the car a few times trying to get it to start but it wouldn't fire. Got it working after about 3-4 attempts after I found what what I did wrong and I noticed a little blue smoke coming out the pipes.

Could this have been because I tried starting it so many times and it didn't fire that some oil just built up, or could I have an oil leak somewhere? Reman is less than 10k miles old.

 

If it was accumulated oil from sitting, the smoke should have subsided quickly after initial start-up. If it's continuous, then it was likely present BEFORE your clutch pedal troubles, as I don't see one causing the other.

 

So twice now in the cold when I start my car (VERY cold start) My car start revving up and down from 1-3k rmps.When you put the clutch in it stops and once the car is warm it stops. I have looked up what the problem could be and it looks like it is the neutral position switch.

My question is will this revving cause problems with my car or is it ok to let it rev until it is warm? Should I get the neutral position switch fixed asap or is this just all thanks to the cold?

Thanks!

 

It's the cold, mine does it too, usually low teens, single digit temps.
It doesn't happen often enough to concern me, but Idk if it's actually harmful.

 

Ok cool! Do you let the car do it's revving thing until it is warm or do you hold the clutch in until it is warm enough? Right now I hold the clutch in to make sure nothing bad is happening.

Thanks so much for the quick reply!

 

I hold the clutch in if I'm dressed for the cold.
If not, I duck back inside, it doesn't usually last long.

 

The revving during very cold is nothing to be concerned about. Its a built in feature of the ECU that has the engine trying to warm itself when very cold. You do not need to do anything special, drive as normal for cold conditions, meaning dont rev past 4500 until the engine is warm. It may continue to rev up and down when at a stop until warm.

 

Thanks for the info! I feel a lot better now about this! :D

 

I understand this isn't the section to argue, but respectfully disagree...sort of. Even with proper oil viscosity, it's never good for engine wear if the car instantly goes to 3k on cold start, especially if it's really cold as described. That's over 3 times the typical idle speed.
The FD RX7 also came with AWS (accelerated warm-up system) and for the same purpose as the RX8...emissions. It's just a way to get the cat heated up quicker. Note that it's nothing to benefit the engine's operation....just CARB standards. Fortunately on the 7 disabling it wasn't terribly difficult, especially if you moved to a stand-alone.
The reason I say "sort of" is that if it's unavoidable on the 8 with the stock ECU then that's that. But otherwise...

 

That is what I thought. I will just try my best to not let it happen. (Hold the clutch in until it worms up a little) Thanks for your input!

 

Understand, as the BigCajun alluded to, it would only mean starting the car with the clutch depressed and holding it there for a few seconds while the engine builds full oil pressure at slow idle speed. After that there should be no issues with appropriate viscosity oil if the car idles fast.
It just always makes me cringe to hear someone start their car in cold weather and instantly rev it hard for no reason.

 

Hi guys, sounds like a really simple question but my 55 rx8 started over revving yesterday and hasn't stopped since.. I can't get any power to the wheels unless she's revving at least 6krpm, am I in need of a new clutch?

Thanks for any replies

 

Easiest way to test a clutch to see if it's slipping is to get the car moving so that your doing ~5000 rpms in 2nd gear, and floor it. If the engine speed increases but the vehicle's speed doesn't, then the clutch is slipping and needs to be replaced. A slipping clutch is often, but not always, associated with a distinct smell.

You'll need to be more descriptive with the "started over revving yesterday and hasn't stopped since."

 

I tried to take the car out for a spin today but it failed to move, I thought I would try to engage gears without my foot on the clutch and it went into every one without a fail, no grinding what so ever.. It was as if the clutch was still engaged even though the pedal was lifted. Any ideas what's wrong? Am I in need of a replacement?

 

Sounds like your clutch isn't engaging at all.....in effect it is like your foot is on the clutch even when it isn't. The only way that would happen is if the clutch disc is completely disintegrated...or you have no input shaft....so you need to pull the tranny and have a look

My bet is that it's the clutch

 

If the engine was running while you did this, something has broken, sheared or failed. But my first thought isn't the clutch. Sounds like shifter linkage or forks.

 

I tried turning on the ignition and stomping the brake pedal 20 times quickly but nothing happened. Is there another way to do it on the Series II or am I doing it wrong?

 

Fastest way to burn carbon out? Besides high revving