I did start becoming overwhelmed at one point, much like climbing a ledge in a cliff face 100m up. Just gotta stay calm n focused.

 

These shld help with the wiring.

 

Will try post some updates n progress Tomoz.

 

i speak from experience and im sure countless people will agree with me but i would never use butt connectors for anything. friend of mine wired his LS swapped 240 and used millions of butt connectors and that car spends the majority of the time with him under the hood chasing electrical issues. SOLDER SOLDER SOLDER

 

I wouldn't go that far. Both methods have their place. Solder (speaking from years of experience in electronics and engineering) can be just as daunting as poorly crimped wires. Most especially if you are not good with solder, not using the right solder, not prepping the joints, and most importantly if you end up with cold solders. You'd be surprised how much stress vibrations in an engine bay put on soldered connections.

 

Yes soldering is better but almost every car out there uses gobs and gobs of spade connectors that are relatively exposed to the elements and have little to no problems. Its called fuses.

End rant sorry i just see too many people rag on things that are basically the same as stock.

I would have personally gone with uninsulated crimps. Then fill them with solder and heat shrink over the top. Makes a really clean reliable connection.

 

I ended up soldering and used the heat shrink from the crimps cos it has a glue in it also. Damn crimping was harder than soldering n I just didn't trust the connections. I've been soldering since I was like 14. My stepdad was mad on electronics and ham radio etc, so I had good training.

 

Well the transfer has started. Moving the 20b outta the track car n into the street car.

Installed the Sohn adapter.

Extended the front end links connections with spacers and longer thicker bolts. I hope the lower arm where it connects will hold up to the pressure. I think so. Will monitor it for the first few months.

Need to remove about 3mm from xcessive manifold to match the 20b intake.

 

Front n rear Sub frame in. Note the mazdatrix billet subframe bushes in rear. Steer linkage extended. Fd 7 + rx8 hybrid.

 

Here's a question. I disconnected the abs in the missus rx8 by pulling out the monster plug from abs unit direct to see if the car still functioned. It did but, the electric assist steering did not. Are they linked up somehow? If I remove the abs completely on my car, how do I keep the assist steering? Splice wires together from steering that are feeding to the abs effectively bypassing?

 

Rear shocks n axels back in. Tein mono flex with edfc etc. So damn hot today. Will start putting the front end back together soon. And reassemble rear brakes.

 

Front end in.

 

Getting pretty excited now, it feels like it's all starting to come together, tho there's still some major hurdles.

Mounted the CAS today. I'll weld the bracket later, but for now ill test the design. There is about .5mm space between magnet and wheels highest point. I can easily adjust this and add another .5 - 2mm. The bracket is very solid, and bolted to that odd piece of flat front cover at the bottom of 20b. Just drill two holes thru it.

 

Does anyone know where I can buy a new, or almost new, 20b omp, for wayyyy less than $1600?? I can't believe the price if that thing, it's insane!!!

Also, is a fd or fc omp the same, aside from the oil outlet pipes 2 instead of 3 or four instead of 3? Whatever.

 

You might have better luck asking on the 7club forums.

 

Thanks

 

Fitted rad

Ported the xcessive lim and the 20b uim to match each other and the motor.

Bit worried about the sump height from ground. I wonder if there's a low profile bolt on aftermarket option avail???

 

You might have better luck fabricating one from aluminum.. I know some people run the stock pan without problems

 

No way, that will end badly.

 

I agree...that is a problem waiting to happen. Can you raise the engine up?....or are you going to have to make a custom oil pan?

A dry sump would be a nice option....no oil pan. Just a flat plate on the bottom. Need deep pockets though.....

 

At your expense, either dry sump or custom made pan is the way to go. Dry sump is costly and making a custom pan would be your better option. Dry sump should be considered when no space is available or when you plan to track the car as you will not suffer any oil starvation. If your plan is to get it running asap then make a pan later. Get it running first. This will be a bomb waiting to explode if you love off-roading your 8 or purposely run over things. I'm sure your interests are in getting the car going

 

Yeh it looks like a custom sump is my option.

I love the xtreme dry sump but I don't love the price. Will look at that in 6-12 months tho.

For now, just custom I guess.

Aluminium?

 

Finally bored out the injector holes to suit.
Very happy with fitment and it's sealed very well.

Seem to be having some ground clearance issues with the tein mono flex. The steering rack mounts are about 80mm from ground and there's still about an inch space between tyre n guard.

 

Fixed the transition on my turbo to match the flange.

Trial mounting the turbo so as to start building the manifold.

 

Why did you go with such a large flange into the turbo? What size pipe are you running?

Anything larger than the restriction on the turbine housing seams to be a waste imho.