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Old Nov 29, 2014 | 02:07 PM
  #176  
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Yes look into a high grade aluminum. Looking good man I really love the way it's coming out. About the flange ^ apparently it's not obvious from the looks of it but a full blown 20b produces incredible amounts of exhaust gases. If the down pipe is designed it should be with a large diameter and it should not taper. The point is to evacuate the exhaust as much and fast as possible to keep flow moving. It does affect the intake side how fast and the amount of exhaust you evacuate. It's all about not producing back pressure which will not only damage/destroy the turbo but the engine. Play it big so as to keep it safe. 3 inch is restrictive that's how much exhaust is produced. Question... Have you figured bdc and tdc for your timing on each rotor?
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Old Nov 30, 2014 | 06:58 AM
  #177  
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Originally Posted by logalinipoo
Why did you go with such a large flange into the turbo? What size pipe are you running? Anything larger than the restriction on the turbine housing seams to be a waste imho.
Coz I'm running 3x 2.6" pipes outta the engine to merge before turbo. Wanted to keep as much flow as possible.

Dump pipe is also 4".
Port matched the turbo entry to the transition to keep the flow smooth. It may help, it can't hurt.
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Old Nov 30, 2014 | 07:01 AM
  #178  
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Originally Posted by RedDream
Yes look into a high grade aluminum. Looking good man I really love the way it's coming out. About the flange ^ apparently it's not obvious from the looks of it but a full blown 20b produces incredible amounts of exhaust gases. If the down pipe is designed it should be with a large diameter and it should not taper. The point is to evacuate the exhaust as much and fast as possible to keep flow moving. It does affect the intake side how fast and the amount of exhaust you evacuate. It's all about not producing back pressure which will not only damage/destroy the turbo but the engine. Play it big so as to keep it safe. 3 inch is restrictive that's how much exhaust is produced. Question... Have you figured bdc and tdc for your timing on each rotor?
Bdc n tdc, no, not yet. I spose the original timing wheel would have a mark maybe,?
Next challenge lol
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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 03:28 AM
  #179  
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So every time I turn round to do something I have to mod something else for fitment. Grr

Primary injectors are fatter than stock, so had to grind top of plate where injectors seat.

Also the braided omp lines arrived.
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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 08:53 PM
  #180  
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Does anyone know how to keep the assisted steering control when ditching the abs?

Is it just a matter of rewiring some of the abs wires to keep the steering working.

I unplugged the abs unit on our other rx8 and the power assist steering stopped working!
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 04:27 AM
  #181  
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AES M5 mufflers arrived. Will use my rotor tips.
4" pipe to split into 2 x 3"pipes to mufflers. Sweet sounds!!

Still trying to position the turbo for optimum clearance n performance, damn thing is really too big!! It'll fit, but just!!
Be easier if I cld just dump out the hood, ;-)

Bolted up the s2 rear bumper too. Seems to fit ok. Just a bigger gap between tail lights. Will need the s2 retainer brackets too.
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 07:07 AM
  #182  
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Better progress today. Bought some stronger steel to hold the turbo n flange in place. Even had a win with my welding. I've resigned to cutting a hole in my hood for turbo. Will help get some heat out of the bay anyway plus I've always liked the look of snail peeking out. Not sure the cops will like it, but hey, why let that ruin my fun.

Ordered a 4" 45degree butt weld bend to help with the merge.

Intake plumbing will be a challenge too. I want to run it totally horizontal from turbo to cooler to TB but that will mean cutting a lot of the hood away. If I can legally do it somehow then I will otherwise I will tilt it 45degree towards ground n create a funky U bend back up to cooler.
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 12:26 PM
  #183  
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Wait.. You cut a hole in your hood and you are mounting the turbo to the frame of the car?

I am very confused.
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 12:48 PM
  #184  
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Get a rx8 and youll understand👌
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 01:50 PM
  #185  
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TX

Originally Posted by logalinipoo
Get a rx8 and youll understand👌
He has one.
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 01:52 PM
  #186  
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I know i know, and its the correct color too
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 03:07 PM
  #187  
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Originally Posted by shadycrew31
Wait.. You cut a hole in your hood and you are mounting the turbo to the frame of the car? I am very confused.
I must be a very bad story teller. Did I forget to mention I'm yet to build the manifold?
Hence the current mounting position.

No hole in hood yet.
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 05:18 AM
  #188  
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Changed my mind. Moved T forward and lower so the intercooler will fit. Still need to put a vent in the hood but not so HUGE now.

Need a custom oil pan. Grrrr
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 11:13 AM
  #189  
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Don't forget to roll that intercooler 180 so the one pointing down is closer to your engine then pipe water from the bottom to top of it.
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Old Dec 6, 2014 | 03:40 AM
  #190  
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Originally Posted by logalinipoo
Don't forget to roll that intercooler 180 so the one pointing down is closer to your engine then pipe water from the bottom to top of it.
Yup will do. Thanks for the reminder.

May have to use a 90degree elbow fitting too! At least on the top.
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 06:38 PM
  #191  
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Mated the rx8 fan shroud to the mishimoto. Just gotta add some foam rubber for full seal Lotsa trimming basically. Pretty easy tho and the shroud is flush to radiator everywhere as it should be.
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Last edited by SiNfidelity; Dec 12, 2014 at 06:43 PM.
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 06:46 PM
  #192  
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Popped in spacers at hinges n latch so I can still lock the hood lol

Xmas came early for the GF too.
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 08:31 PM
  #193  
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Always nice when things just fit.
Ordered 3 of these from uk.
1.1m long 5rib fan belts
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 07:29 AM
  #194  
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This tight radius cast alloy bend will make life easier. Haven't got much room for a silicon joiner tho, on TB side.

Is the TB made of cast alloy too? Anyone?
Think I'll try welding the bend to the TB.
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 07:37 AM
  #195  
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Yes TB is... It polishes up nicely too.
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 08:37 AM
  #196  
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Aluminum is much harder to weld than steel.
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 03:18 PM
  #197  
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You might have a difficult time welding the TB because the motor and sensors won't like the heat

You also will need some kind of stress relief in there...or you are going to have problems with the welds or components breaking from vibratory stress

You would be much better off with a long 90 silicone coupler
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 06:45 PM
  #198  
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Originally Posted by dannobre
You might have a difficult time welding the TB because the motor and sensors won't like the heat You also will need some kind of stress relief in there...or you are going to have problems with the welds or components breaking from vibratory stress You would be much better off with a long 90 silicone coupler
Long silicone won't cut it. Need short radius and provision to add the BOV.
There will be silicone coupler between elbow and intercooler.
I won't be welding whilst TB attached to motor, obviously but yeh ur right about the sensors or components inside the TB. May be wise to open it up, remove what I can. I do have a spare incase I FK it.
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 06:46 PM
  #199  
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Originally Posted by logalinipoo
Aluminum is much harder to weld than steel.
Yes I know, I've been practicing. It's a bitch, tho I'd say it's all about getting those settings right.
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 06:47 PM
  #200  
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Originally Posted by firecran
Yes TB is... It polishes up nicely too.
I wonder if that was a hint?? Lol yeh I been meaning to do that. Everything around it Is shiny
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