New MazdaManiac BASE Calibrations
Not trying to add anything to MazdaManiac's work load but if I was a customer I would be flipping logs back to him as soon as you can.
Get your calibration, load it up...drive for a day which should allow your trims to settle in and get a new set of logs back to him. I understand some people had their cars in storage for the winter but waiting several weeks between submissions only limits your opportunity to get the best tune possible.
Get your calibration, load it up...drive for a day which should allow your trims to settle in and get a new set of logs back to him. I understand some people had their cars in storage for the winter but waiting several weeks between submissions only limits your opportunity to get the best tune possible.
would it be such a big, possibly dangerous, discrepancy on the 8?
also how would adding a catback/headers affect the cal/tune?
those were my intentions when i got my AP a lil over month ago, but then the weather got hot and i was wondering how well does the PCM correct for cold weather. I know from owning an FD youd hate to tune in the warmer/hot months and then have to drive the car in the cooler winter air and screw up your AF, which could mean a new engine.
would it be such a big, possibly dangerous, discrepancy on the 8?
also how would adding a catback/headers affect the cal/tune?
would it be such a big, possibly dangerous, discrepancy on the 8?
also how would adding a catback/headers affect the cal/tune?
A cat-back exhaust isn't going to effect too much with regards to your air/fuel ratio and headers from an N/A standpoint shouldn't either.
MazdaManiac, Question. I'm on map 4.0.1 now. and my car runs better, but still bogs under boost really bad. in your email it says you want idle, cruise, and Wot. but I can't Wot at the moment. can I just send you my cruise and idle?
In some ranges, I'll work the AFR out to 12.3:1 or so, but only if you live in a place where the gas isn't crap.
If it is sputtering at 11:1, you have some other mechanical issue. It will still fire all the way down to 9:1 or so.
12.3:1 is the maximum power range, but for most people on street fuel, this is the ragged edge and requires less ignition timing to be safe.
I tuned my car for 12.3:1 and found that, on the dyno, the power at 11.3:1 was only slightly lower, but I could run a bit more ignition timing (which made more torque) and I didn't have to worry about bad gas.
And that is perfect.
12.3:1 is the maximum power range, but for most people on street fuel, this is the ragged edge and requires less ignition timing to be safe.
I tuned my car for 12.3:1 and found that, on the dyno, the power at 11.3:1 was only slightly lower, but I could run a bit more ignition timing (which made more torque) and I didn't have to worry about bad gas.
12.3:1 is the maximum power range, but for most people on street fuel, this is the ragged edge and requires less ignition timing to be safe.
I tuned my car for 12.3:1 and found that, on the dyno, the power at 11.3:1 was only slightly lower, but I could run a bit more ignition timing (which made more torque) and I didn't have to worry about bad gas.



I actually had to Google PIITB... I'm bad with internet acronyms.