That's not what your datalogs showed.
You should probably read the "So You Want to be a Tuner" thread.

 

thank God for the datalogging feature. Otherwise some peoples 8s would never be tuned and you would probably be blamed.....

 

When I removed my cat I ran the same tune and neve had a problem. My AFRs did not change from what I saw on the AP either. I had a slight boost spike but that was pre boost controller.

 

interesting

 

I still get people that have nominal datalogs that see a .3 - .5 AFR variation and scream "OMG! My AFRs are WAAAAAAAY OFF".

I can't imagine what we would have if I only had people saying "Yeah, my AFRs are 11.2:1 in 3rd gear" when they really run the line from 13.5:1 to 10.9:1, depending on load and RPM.

I imagine it might be a little better if people really understood what the target AFRs are supposed to be across the load range and in and out of CL, but it would end up being a whole bunch of speculating and not a lot of zoom.


You are a good example (on both counts). Your calibration sequence was finished at v4.0.3.

 

Lucky!

 

Is there a "So You Would like to be a Tuner" thread?

Unfortunately I don't think I have the time nor the age for that..

I'm telling numbers I've seen on live data (equiv. ratio) after installing the 4.0.2 this morning. I was driving to work, so didn't pay full attention and may be wrong. I'll get a log later and post some numbers so anyone can correct me if I'm reading it wrong.

The only reason I look at AFR's is because I still have my cat on. I read in a thread on this forum (I don't remember which one though) what values where supposed to shorten the cat life and which ones would kill it quickly. So I looked at AFRs to see if I must be worried for the cat or very much worried. I know I should had removed it by now, I just haven't found one that suits my needs after being scammed by mazsport (can I say scammed by mazsport or will I get banned even when he is enjoying my $500 in exchange for nothing ¿?).

Cheers.

 

AFR is only relevant when compared to load and RPM.
I can tell you that I saw a 17:1 yesterday and a 20:1 today.
"Yikes!" you might exclaim. But you would be only basing your surprise on half the information.

The correct AFRs are going to fall between 11:1 and 20:1 on a properly tuned car.

The above is basically useless information - as is looking at the AFR display while driving without correlating it to an exact load point.

 

I understand ... basically that means I have no idea

I begun to read the "So you would like to be a tuner thread" . Hope it will make me less ignorant on this subject.

Btw, here is an extract of the logs I got few minutes ago:

First one cruising on 5th gear at 60mph:




And another one of 2nd gear wot:



Is there anything that can be told about them? Like if they are near desired values, or far from them, or if my cat will die tomorrow?

Thank you for your help.

 

Those are decent values for a car with a CAT.
You are a bit rich where the APV and VDI opens (which is normal and necessary to prevent detonation).
The whole WOT range can probably go 2% leaner and you are done (provided 3rd looks as good).
Your cruise log is still in closed-loop, so its hard to tell if your MAF and injector values are right.
You need to cruise in a gear that puts your RPMs above 4000 RPM.

Just follow the directions and send in your logs.

 

Went for a drive today after talking to Ray about a ticking issue I had at WOT when I first installed the BHR coils. We discussed that it may have been my boost controller or it may have been spark blowing out. When I heard it I got off of it and sent logs to MM just in case. Didn't want to have a 3k mistake.

My drive was in rainy weather so I couldn't get on it much but I will say the rpms are smoother across the board. My idle is better but I still got a slight jump. Still can't figure that out. Not sure if my short term fuel trim will cause that or not. In boost, although not full power boost due the rain, I saw a low of 11.2 AFR and a high of 11.8 AFR. Everywhere else was in the mid 14s to high 15s. Any thoughts on the idle Jeff? I checked all lines and no leaks found. I haven't put a screen in the intake yet so that will be my next step.

 

Good. I knew the cruise log didn't conform to the MM norm but i forgot it was closed loop (and therefore useless..).

I'll send them correct this weekend.

Regards.

 

For those of you with the BHR coils and MM AP service that need/want your dwell settings changed, please send an email with the 11 deadly questions and your map to:

apdwell at mazdamaniac.com

This is only if you have the BHR coils INSTALLED!

 

oh crap Hund, I sent one last night to the normal email.
can you reroute it or do you want me to resend? Whatever works for you.

 

Hey Jeff I sent on but the map did not load. I resent another e-mail with the current map.

 

I have a bit of a problem with my idle. I mentioned before that on 4.0.3 the idle regularly drops (every 15 seconds or so) and it drops 100 rpm and there is an audible thump from the engine.

I tried backing down to 4.0.2 and lo and behold yesterday I still had the issue. Today I reverted to stock map and the engine is already giving indications to the same behavior. I will take the car for a longer ride this afternoon to be really sure it is warmed up and then sit and study the idle.

However I am afraid that I know the answer and that it will thump at me. So taking out defeat in advance, what could be the problem and how would it be fixed? Secondly, is it useful to continue the calibration process while I have such an issue?

 

Sounds like it's just hunting for an idle which I've seen happen on my own car. The solution for me was bumping up the idle speed a bit.

Other issues I would have is the PCM would fiddle with the Air/fuel ratio at idle. It would creep from 14.7 to 15.0 then stumble and add more fuel to correct itself. It would keep doing this till it added LTFT most of the time.

If it's constant across all tunes, unless there's been MAF calibration changes or something along those lines I'd check your intake, maybe clean your MAF and do simple stuff like that. Troubleshooting 9 times out of 10 is process of elimination.

 

Actually after reverting to stock I can confirm that the problem is still there. I can now also feel it while cruising and if I stand still with no gear and hold the engine at say 4500 rpm the RPM will still jump.

I am suspecting a spark plug is giving up on me. And I am praying it is not the MAF sensor that needs replacing. I will open up the intake and look around this weekend and see if I find something. And I will of course check the plugs.

 

My tuning was "complete" at 4.02. Guess my car was easy?
:-)

It feels awesome, I must say.. only issue is the idle dips a little bit every few seconds, but it did that before the tuning also.

 

my idle dipped a bit when the revs came down to idle, but after i changed my spark plugs, wires, and coils that problem disappeared

 

Mine has pretty much been eliminated as well. I need to install a screen in the MAF tube and see if that works.

 

would pulling the room fuse do anything for that? i think i did that once when i was having idle issues, and it solved it. the map remained flashed, i'm pretty sure.

 

ok.. I finally figured out what my problem is with my car.. I picked up new coils. and it still seemed to studder.. I needed new coils anyways. well. I tried a different intake.. and it fixed my studdering problem! Now I just have to finish the tune and i'm done.. woo!

 

Pulling the room fuse just resets your fuel trims which can be done with an ECU reset on the accessPORT or just by simply reflashing your tune.

 

i thought the same thing, but for some reason the accessport reset didn't do the trick though. after i flashed a new map, i had idle issues. then i pulled the room fuse, and it went away. checked to see which map was running, and it was still the one i flashed. i'm not saying it makes sense, i'm just saying it's something i did that seemed to work. lol.