You need a wideband - either prove yours works or install a seperate one.

Be carefult - this is how bad things happen to motors.

 

HEY MM I dont know if you remember me i filled out that information you wanted.. and I never got a email back from you with any updated maps..

Im still running the _5b map

would you like me to se rend it??????

 

J. Cab watch out because that AFR is really strange that when you go into boost you are leaning out way too much. It seems as the AP programming on your stock computer is overriding the Greddy Ultimate.

The idle AFR's are ok because I get something around that in idle and I have a base FI map on my AP. But yeah the other AFR's are horrible. And what people said that when you let go off throttle you get 20.3 AFR's is correct. But I would recommend that you get yourself a wideband. I have mine and I can't live without it. Every time I go into boost I check it to see if my AFR's are healthy, so yeah install one and have it somewhere easy to look at when you are driving. It is totally worth the $$.

 

So should I unistall the AP for right now to see if the car will run a little better?

 

I am thinking that there is some confusion about what EMS does what.

If you have the AP installed with out loading a basemap - then it doesn't really DO anything.
If you want to return the PCM to stock - then do that and see if your AFR's clean up.
The EMU doesn't DO anything unless you are in boost - unless the physical wiring is messed up which was checked right?

Under no circumstances should your AFR's do what they are doing - boost or no boost - AP or no AP; it is physically impossible for a motor to run at a PERFECT AFR without some kind of variation. Especially at cold start idle - we all KNOW that the car runs richer than Stoich on cold startup - so there is your acid test.

 

Yeah you need the appropriate settings to mess around with boost. You cannot boost with stock settings, very dangerous for the engine. Engine needs more fuel when in boost. I don't have the AP so I don't know what to tell you, but you definitely need some kinda base FI map to use. You want to be around 12 AFR or so in boost, and even lower than that past 10psi. As everyone else said, letting off the throttle will peg lean so that's expected. Were you actually in boost at those RPMS you were giving, or were you in vacuum? Lean AFR's shouldn't be much of a problem in vacuum. You might lose power and bog down if its too lean in cruise. I also hear it can kill your catalytic converter, if you still use one.

And J.Cab had a good point about AFR on startup, make sure the engine is warmed up to operating temp, otherwise the open/closed loop thing will throw you off.

I use the int-x and i also have a stalling problem when coming to stop, but I'm going to try tweaking some settings to see if i can clean that up. The engine likes to idle around 12.5 I think, so if you can get it close to that, it might fix your stalling issue.

 

21.4 btw

 

MM,
how long do you think it'll take for me to get my tune?

 

ok sure, i just never see it on my AP.

 

Alright so tonight I ran the base FI map from MM. I set up the calibrations the STFT was 0% and it didnt move. So I kept using the start file, no trim. Now when I went to watch my AFRs they were still at 14.7 at idle. Then when I tried going into boost the AFRs went to 20.3. Strange thing now is I am not able to go past 4k in 2nd gear. It starts to bog down. Also tonight I think my car died in neutral like 5+ times when I would come to a stop. I am still getting these 2 CELS:

PCM P0130: O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (bank 1 sensor 1)

RKE P0039: Turbo/Super Charger Bypass Valve Control Circuit Range/Performance

Please MM (I know you could probably be of most help) or someone else give any info? I just replaced the O2 Sensor. Should I just disconnect the Greddy Ultimate altogether and then set up the AP again and see if the AP can detect the proper AFRs. Does using the Greddy Intake have anything to do with these readings? So turns out the shop that did the install didnt install the Platinum NGK Trailing Spark Plugs that I took them. What am I risking by not having them in the car right now beside the misfires, etc.?

 

ditch the emanage and the greddy intake

 

Yeah, seriously.. I have no place here but you've got the most powerful ECU already in the car (stock) with an AP.. so you're set. Don't even bother with the piggyback anymore. Get your intake figured out first though.

On another note, Jeff.. if you are reading this could you possibly get back to me about buying an AP from someone who bought it from you in person. Been trying every avenue of contact.

 

JEFF- I've been reading a bit on here about RPM raising and I have decided I want it raised by 300 RPM's. I sent you a graph to look at for possible tunning on 21 Oct any way I can get you to raise the RPM with the next tune or will I need to resend the whole thing so you know for sure who I am.

 

Alright ditched the emanage and AFRs stayed at 14.7 at idle and even during boost. Didnt move one bit.

 

AND the Greddy intake..this has been discussed countless times
it will NOT work with the AP correctly. you can modify an aem intake to make it work or the mazsport cai works, which I have.

this is just the first step in getting your car to run right. I think there may be other issues going on there.

 

What's the issue? The greddy intake screwing up the MAF I assume? Can't do anything to upset the MAF when using the AP.

 

^yup

but he clearly has other issues other than the intake that need to be addressed first

 

Hmm, the GReddy intake will not work with the AP? I thought only the Esmiril intake didn't have the proper MAF setup to work with the AP. Does this mean I need to get the AEM intake before I setup my turbo?

 

Have you checked this thread for information and answers? It's specific to AP and turbo.

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-engine-tuning-forum-63/cobb-acessport-turbo-discussion-141323/

 

the stock greddy will not work correctly. the aem will work, and mazsport cai (if you like waiting months for it) and you can make your own...there is a thread on this

edit: here is the link for it....IMO does not look as clean as the aem or mazsport, but it works
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-major-horsepower-upgrades-93/diy-ultimate-greddy-turbo-cai-ap-owners-142267/

 

So the AEM has the correct MAF fitting for the AP?

 

It's the tube ID and the MAF placement in the tube that is most important

and the airflow characteristics of the 3-4" each side of the MAF......

 

^what he said

 

Jeff: anymore updates for the maps?

 

What are you looking for?
After I sent you your update on 9/24, I got an e-mail from you on 10/8 saying you didn't receive your changes, so I sent them again on 10/10.