Phil, this is me the guy from MN with esmeril kit. My car has the idle issue when I stop also. Let say I come up to a stop light and I press in clutch and put in neutral. Usually the car would die. To restart the car I would put it in gear and press and release the clutch again. So normally I leave it in gear, usually 2nd or 3rd, press in clutch-release clutch-press in clutch about once or twice until the car can hold idle while I still have the cluth in. Then I would put it in neutral. Chris tries to fix this issue but it is still there. He said it is tuning issue and he just need to spend more time driving the car. Other than this my car runs good. Your engine is still new so funny thing may happen. Mine did that the first few hours after we started the engine for the first time. Chris was there to put engine in the car and make sure the car runs before he left my house. I got around 9k miles on the engine so far and it runs strong.

Hopefully you find out the solution to what is wrong with your engine. Have you done compression test?

 

No compression test, figured new motor would have compression. Did you have to push start it or did your start off the starter? also, did you have to keep the rpm's up for awhile before it would idle after it being started?

 

Phil,

You should do a compression test. I think the guy who build your engine won't forget to install the apex seals in your engine. But I would do compression test first to get it out of the way and narrow down on list of issues why engine won't start.

I never done push start on mine. My car will start fine on its own but it takes long crank to get it starts. The crank map is better now and it will start on the first try on a long crank start. In the past it flood first after the first try and then I have to pull the fuse and then it will start normally.

My car starts off the starter. I don't have to put my foot on the gas pedal to keep it idle. I do, however, have to floored the pedal while starting sometimes to get it to start. It will idle on its own around 1200 rpm at the beginning and then settle down to around 800-900 rpm after about a min or so. Have you check if your starter is hooked up correctly? Or is it still in good condition?

Bobby

 

Hum how old is this fuel for the hard to / non start issue at hand? If this is gasoline more than 4-5 months old... might want to siphon out and put fresh super.

 

Starter works perfectly, It turns the car over pretty fast actually. I was rather impressed lol. Tonight i will get the INT-x back on the car and check all my sensors and clean the MAF. If still no start i will get it pull started and try to take it out on the highway and back to get it some action and see if that helps.

 

There was the original gas in the car from a year ago when i installed the motor. I syphoned almot all of it out except maybe..... on 1/8 tank or less. then put in fresh 91 by the gas can. i now have a total of a bit over a half tank of gas.

 

Phil,

I think your engine just so new and it acting up. Try to get the thing start and drive around in an area where you can do continuous driving without stopping. The thing may just need to be run in. Could there is air bubbles in your gas line?

Bobby

 

Na, its ran long enough now that any air in the line woudl be out. I agree with the driving it thing. The one time it did idle, it sounded really smooth and good. Like a rebuild engine should lol. I may try to give it a good drive tonight down the highway for a few miles and back. Might have a helper car follow incase i need a pull start lol.

 

This needs to happen, and it needs to be driven. I'm surprised your builder didn't tell you this info. This is what MM and RR do. Thats also what I did and my car is running pretty dam well.

You will most likely have starting issues for the first 3-400 miles depending on what was replaced in the rebuild.

You can let the car run at 3k for as long as you want just put a box fan in front of it.

This is a new engine its going to do lots of weird stuff. Long starts are normal.

You need to crank that thing until it starts if it doesn't start after 10 seconds of crank stop wait 5 mins and try it again.

One more thing to check have a friend crank the engine while you look at the eshaft pulley. See if its wobbling.

This is not a dirty sensor or dirty maf problem. This is a new engine break-in issue.

If all of this does not work your last option is to clean all the grounds and put dilectric grease on them.

Good Luck, Shady out.

 

Thats my plan... pull start it then get it out for a short drive... after that if it will idle i will let it idle for awhile... if it wont, i will try to keep the rpm at 3k.

 

Drain it into another car and put 93 octane, remove and clean / dry plugs. Probably have fuel contamination. Get more of the old out.

 

We dont have 93 around here... best we have is 91. Its something to think about anyway ....

 

Will it run at 3-4K for long enough to get it warmed up?

If you flooded it with the big injectors in Sec position ( 2.5x fuel) it may take a bit of a run to get it cleaned out enough to idle well

It is difficult to get much to happen with more than one variable being off at a time

The intake is a big problem in this car...poor MAF readings and it runs like crap

 

yeah it runs smoothly when your keep it at an rpm. sounds perfect... it just wont stay there by itself. it ran for about 10 min last night at around 2k. if i stay in the car and keep it at 3 k it will run for as long as i want to most likely... its sounding more and morelike i should pop start it take it for a drive hten have it sit at 3k for a bit.

 

Most likely thing is the intake...like Charles said..log your MAF readings at idle and see what it is doing.

Do you still have the MAF setup to be blow through like the picture?

 

Yup everything is the same as the pic is. . . . as far as logging the MAF at idle... if i can even get it to idle.. i will. but that has only been able to happen once so far.

 

OK, another update for ya. got home and installed the Microtech again. took out the car and pop started it. got it back to my driveway and sit in the car playing with the throttle for 30 minutes straight. I helt it at 2k help it at 3k reved it from 2 ta 5k as i was told by steve kan. everything that you could do with the throttle i did. when you would hold it at a constant rpm and hold your foot still it would be really really smooth... then after a minute or so it would start missing .. and jumping a little in the rpm. Reved fine every time you give it gas and when it was not missing it you had excellent throttle / rpm controll.

After 30 min of throttle play it was time to see if it would idle. I slowly backed off the throttle closer and closer to the rpm it should idle at. when it got to that rpm....... it died. NO restart.

everything checked out good on the gauges. temp sat at a constat 145ish... and its 92 degrees out now. oil pressure looked good along with air fuel. it was mainly in the twelves but when it started missing, it would go lean and hit the 15,s and 16,s which is as high as my gauge goes.

any more info or does it jsut need another thirty minute round ?

 

I wouldn't go another 30 mins...

It should be holding its idle.

 

did you make sure your getting spark when you are turning it over? you should be able to pull the spark plug wire off and see a nice big bolt off each line.

 

Did you ever check if your front pulley was wobbling?

 

Vac leak?

 

never checked the pully... totatty spaced it off. will do when i get a helping hand.

when this first started i pulled one plug wire and got spark.... thats all i checked. I need to check them all. will do also when i get a helping hand.

since i posted last i pull started again. this time it stumbled a little at idle like it wanted to but still died

 

some possibles :

vac leak
low compression due to seals needing to bed in
int X idle maps no good
irregular airflow on the maf (when using stock ecu)
combination of 2 or more of the above

BTW - you did check that the temp sensor was plugged in ?

 

since you cant go anywhere can you snap some pics of your intake and vacuum points? Anything involving air into the car. maybe you forgot something a second set of eyes may help.

 

Was the LIM disassembled or the APV barrel actuation played with while it was out?

At least I don't feel so dumb now for having hooked up the wrong wiring connectors to the wrong fuel injectors the first time I ever did one ...