Give her the ol' angry pirate. ;( arghh

 

These brand new motors that Mazda is sending to certain people are part of the reman program even though they are brand new. Ask your tech to look at the tension rod bolt heads to see if they are painted red, if so its a reman if not its a brand new motor. Also ask him what color tape was there covering the ports and other openings on the motor. If its blue tape, its a reman. If the tape color is light tan its a new motor. Have him check these things before getting all upset thinking you have a reman engine again.

I want you to call me tomarrow when you find out the answers to my questions. I sent you a pm with my cell number.

 

Yeah, that sort of negates the whole handbuilt in Japan mystique & niceness.

 

Well at least my engine came from Japan. And not from a bunch of murderers and rapist's locked up in some detention facility.

Just from a bunch of Sake sippers. I love Sushi, you love Sushi?
I just had Sushi. I love Sushi.

 

Ahhhhsoooo

 

Sorry to hear that. hope third engine is a charm.

 

Well I have about 700 miles on her and she's doing fine. Go in for an oil change on Monday.

 

dude easy sorry to hear about your troubles i just embarked on mine
asked them to do a compression check on my 04 with 47800 miles and low and behold rotor 1 was at 98.1 on all three sides...new engine ordered. I talked with the tech though he verified that they are moving to a new remanufacturer and knows which ones to steer clear of, he told me he openned one up they got and it was missing a bolt on the front that misaligned the flywheel with the starter. so here's to x'ed fingers.

 

what prompted you to ask for a compression test?

 

the 47800 miles..car was running quite excellently but i was worried about the end of the warranty and all.

 

My new engine has about 300 miles on it so far and feels nice and strong. I've started to dip in to the throttle a bit more and it feels great. The only thing I have to complain about is a rattle that starts up if I push it a bit below 3000rpm. I think it's a loose heat shield or something. The dealer is happy to have me bring it back in so they can check everything and make sure it's tight.

Other than that I'm very satisfied with my new engine.

 

btw, anyone know the official testing procedure? Do they need to remove the front tire to get to the spark plugs?

I called up my dealer and they want $80 to do the test (1 hour labor). I'm thinking about getting it done, but I show no symptoms and I'm not sure I'd want to know if I did have low compression

Also the dealer tells me my warranty wouldn't cover the engine if there was issues.. hehe.

 

Well yeah you're kinda fu...scre...stuck. MM had some information about it. Zoom44 is another one that might know.

 

Abbid, here's to hoping you get one of the good ones!

 

Noob question: can't wrap my head around how they read compression in two chambers per rotor...maybe you could shed some light?

 

yeah they said they would charge me $100 to do the test...ended up being a $100 bet against my engine needing replacement. They didnt charge me after they saw the results which begs the question why dont they bite the bullet and compression check every 8.

 

Wow! Makes me wanna start a rotary shop...seems like attention to detail is in short supply these days.

 

b/c most owners don't know anything about it, never notice any power loss, and will run a compromised engine well past warranty.

why would mazda WILLINGLY foot the bill for engine replacements for owners who really don't need it - ie don't ever use the power it has anyway?

 

yeah, two issues with them checking every car:

1. Added cost.
2. More owners pissed off about their car needing a new engine.

They do not benefit from such a move, and it will increase the negative press on the car. So I can see why they are not... though it would be nice if they'd test if the customer asks for it. Without charging.

 

The instrument used for the test is measuring all the pulses given from one housing and rotor and does it sequencing to register 3 readings. 2 bad readings and 1 good one means an apex seal is bad since it separates 2 sides of the rotor, 1 bad reading means isolated more like a side seal while 3 bad readings means you're screwed .

Paul

 

Thanks, your explanation helped me visuallize it and now it makes perfect sense.

How can you tell if a corner seal is bad?

 

powersteering harness sucks donkey *****. it fails for a lot of us - myself included. bring it back and have them fix it.

 

ah yeah.

they didn't even replace mine. they just soldered up some of the wire. mm did the same on his..

 

The countermeasure harness is $111 and will fail, also.
Just pull the air box and cut the connector out and solder the wires directly (on the 3-wire torque sensor harness, not the heavy-gauge, 2-wire EPS power harness).

LOL.

I actually drove mine 40 miles across the desert at highways speeds on a motor with zero compression in the number two housing.
Of course, I had to stay in a few pounds of boost at all times and it took 20 or 30 seconds to get to 70 MPH, but it didn't overheat, smoke or complain.
Sounded like a tractor...

 

There must places other than dealerships that can do the compression testing, right?