Yep.

 

My 8's at the dealership now. Having them check the transmission out and do a compression test. The service advisor kept asking why I wanted a compression check, like they didn't want to do it.

I'm pretty sure my trany is shot- it was grinding 90% of the time going into 2nd and about 33% of the time going into 3rd, reguardless of RPM.

Here's hoping your car is all good, Erick. What rental do you have? I got a Mazda5

 

I have this right now. Will have it for the rest of this week and most of next week. Maybe longer, no one knows yet.

 

You should hold that beast hostage.


At least they've actually got you in something comparable. A taurus for all this time sure would suck.

 

Well now a couple of guy's are suppose to be coming from Mazda to look at it next week. See if they can figure anything out.
I'm running out of patience.
So what's happening now is it's running hot. Normal cruise down the freeway 3000 rpm, the engine temp is 220 to 230. Just cruising along.

 

How confident are you guys that the oil coolers are clean and unobstructed, with proper ducting? With all the engine-swapping, and mazda's propensity for screwing up their remans with plenty of sealant and metal shavings, I wonder if your oil coolers are half full of trash causing flow and cooling problems?

Remember, oil cooling in a rotary plays almost as important a factor as the cooling system itself.

 

Also, is the coolant system staying full/sealed, or are you having to add any as time goes on?

 

I have one oil cooler (AT) and they just installed a new radiator. Not sure of whats going on in the oil cooler, but maybe I'll mention it to them on Monday. The new engine has a new thermostat and a new temp sensor on it.
I did just have the oil changed after the last engine was install, about 600 miles into it's life. It has about 1500 on it now, and the tech said nothing about anything in the engine oil. He's seen the link about WT 's rebuilds. And all the crap that could be there. Haven't added any coolant since the radiator install, but I've only driven it about an hour total since the new rad. It went right back to the shop after I picked it up.

 

Definitely plausible, though the entire cooling system has been replaced on the car in question.
I experience similar temps on mine (225° to 235°) at 4k cruise in 110° ambient with the A/C on. Turning off the A/C is usually enough to hold the temps down.
Of course, I have an intercooler in the way, but I know my cooling system is clean because it is a mix of new and flushed or R&R parts. I've never had a reman motor in mine either.

 

I think Karl and I did talk about the oil cooler. And we discussed the flushing of it. Which I believe he did already.
Not sure which engine was in it when this happened. I think it was just before the latest one.

 

Easy_E1: There can't be many members in your new club? Will you have you 8 back for SSX? Overheating is an issue with all of us that choose to live in the arid climates of the southwest. I'm counting on mods to fix mine but Mazda should take note and become active in the cooling problem. The lack of oiling at decell and idle are what really concerns me. I was hoping MM would come back with a fix for this (or maybe he did and it was just over my head).

 

and people are wondering why i wanna do a v8 swap.

 

I don't think there is too many people out that have had 4 engines installed in there cars. I for one didn't want to start that club.

As far as SSX goes I hope to be driving an RX-8.

The overheating should not be an issue. Mazda should have designed the car with an adequate cooling system. Every other car manufacturer has.
Why should I, and everyone else that lives in these hot climates be subjected to overheating when driving normally.

And the MOP situation. I would say that this is just something related to EPA.
If you dumped oil into the engine without any fuel burn on decell, then when the engine started the combustion/ignition cycle it would be burning excess oil that was in the combustion chambers. Thus causing more pollution and possible smoking issues. Thus Mazda is trying to keep this engine as clean (emmissions) as possible.

 

Rotary motors are, inherently, emissions incompatible.
Unless they figure out how to do gas sealing without an injected lubricant, the rotary motor is on its way into oblivion.
Just building bigger and "better" CATs is not going to work for much longer as the EPA demands longer and longer CAT life.

 

Well I think the overheating issue is solved.
Mazda sent one of there Tech support people over from California. He checked the car and found nothing wrong, except it was running hotter than normal. 220+ degrees.
Well they checked everything from fan start temperatures. To thermostat opening temperatures. (186 degrees) To coolant freezing levels.
BINGO.
They found that the "Mazda Premixed Ethylene Glycol" Was set up for VERY cold temperatures. -47 degrees. The mixture is 55% EG and 45% water.
So they diluted the coolant mixture to about 65-70% water and 35-30% EG coolant.
That brought the engine temps down to a more realistic 207 degrees to 212 degrees on the Highway. They cooling fans were working at a normal pace.
Matter of fact I was in the shop when he rolled back in from a 30 minute drive down the freeway in 107 degrees.
The cooling fans didn't come on after stopping the car and turning it off. Any other time they would have run out there maximum cycle.
They also checked a couple of brand new RX-8's and found the coolant's freezing point to be -14 to -17 degrees.
So if you buy Mazda "Premixed Coolant" and you live in the desert like some of us do,, dilute it more than it is. For that matter any type of coolant.
65-70% water 35-30% Ethylene Glycol.
Also you can add some "Water Wetter". Which I will do tomorrow.

 

Heh. Don't post that in the "coolant boiling" thread. You'll get flamed.

 

^Sounds like a plan.

 

I will believe the "solved" when Easy_E1 has driven it for a while and when it's over 110 and still is running "cool".

 

Thats the way I feel too.

 

Well if it makes you feel any better Erick, i blew up the 8 this morning.









Well it was just a sillycone coupler.
POS Cheap @$$ GREDDY !!
New ones are on order.

back on topic, Would a distilled water + water wetter be a good coolant mix for us desert rats?

 

Thanks for the Heart murmur Dave.

I'm thinking that a Distilled water and Ethylene Glycol mix at about 70% and 30%.
That was what Karl put in mine yesterday. And they say they saw a drop of about 10-16 degrees. It was running at 206 to 212. And it was about 107-08 outside.
There was no Water Wetter in at that time.
A bottle of Water Wetter wouldn't hurt. You need Antifreeze of some sort in there as a water pump bearing lubricant. Just plain water will also cause corrosion. Prestone does make an Anti-Rust water pump bearing lubricant. I use to use that in my old school Rotaries.

Bottom line is I haven't driven the car yet. I won't drive it till tomorrow afternoon, after work.
Karl and the Mazda Tech want to run some more tests tomorrow.

 

All good news, Erick. Glad you'll have your 8 back. Now you can drive it to SSX!!

 

easy1,

did you watch them do it??? did they use the weird vacuum long tube thing to get the old out and put the new in??????

i bet they did the change as you said, but they also got some air out of the system..

beers

 

This is a new radiator that has been in the car for about a week. Might have about 50 miles on it. New engine about four weeks.1700 miles.
The coolant has been changed like three times in that time frame. I watched them dump the coolant today from the 2 locations. Engine (center cast iron) and Radiator. Only reason is they had tap water in it (testing). I got them some distilled water and they installed 2 gallons and the rest anti freeze. Nearly 3/4 gallon.
So what exactly are you asking Swoope?

 

you answered my ?

pm.

beers