Mobil 1 0w40 also has moly and boron for antiwear which might slow down that chrom which is coming from those agressive staionary gears.

Your uoa looks good with very low fuel.

so just get some 0w40, and you'll have 3 improvements: Thicker, Moly, and boron.

This oil was developed for hot hard to lube German cars, so yes, this oil holds up to extreme engine use.

Everyone gets thrown off by that 0w. It's not a thin oil. I just doesn't thicken much when cooling.

 

maskedferret how is your oil consumption? You might have clogged OMP nozzle or two.

 

I think at most it's ever been is maybe 1.5 quarts per 3000 miles. Seems to have been slowly diminishing ... just under 1 per 3000 by now. The thought has crossed my mind. I just don't look forward to taking out the UIM to check.

 

before you do that I would run some seafoam trough your OMP. that might do the trick.
more info here: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/optional-ports-seafoam-omp-nozzle-cleaning-217177/

 

My uoa had approx 4 ppm chrome, and my 8 only uses about 1 qt in 4k miles.

IMO that lubing the apex seals won't change your uoa, just save the compression.

You should already be putting in about 7 or 8 oz. premix per fillup (approx 12 gals).

I'll change my oil before the next track day in a few months, and the miles on it will be approx 5500 miles, but my uoa at 23k miles showed no water, and almost no dirt or excess fuel.

therefore, I'll get uoa every other oil change just for fun, not this oil change.

 

And you live and drive in the dustiest environment known to man so that just amazes me. But then again keeping a clean air filter at all times helps that I would think.

 

Did you post those up here? I thought the only 0w40 UOAs were from 9K.

 

He is a traveling man, his username when he is stateside is REDRX3RX8. I have posted his 0W-40 results.

 

Here are my UOAs.
1st sample was with Shell Rotella 5w-40 and whatever was in the car when I bought it.

2nd and 3rd sample are same batch of redline 5w-30. 2nd sample had 2 track days on it and 3rd sample(same oil) had 6 track days on it.

I also had a crack that was letting unfiltered air in (hence higher silicone) on the pvc fitting connecting the crankcase vent to the intake.

I say oil held up very well given the track days and coolant in the oil.

alumaseal took care of the coolant leak for now.

 

My email played dead so, I'm on my laptop in Java, and I don't mean coffee.

I'm REDRX3RX8, and 9krpmrx8 edited and posted my uoa's for me.

I started talking to him from this uoa thread where I saw he was using Mobil 1 0w40, my favorite oil.

I'm not sure that Mobil 1 0w40 is the best oil in the world for the 8, but I don't see anything better.

These uoa's don't necessarily find good oils, but they can find bad engines, and sometimes oils that aren't working like the high chrom from MaskedFerret.

 

I still have the original air filter, and had almost no dirt at 23k miles!!!

And you saw the cup full of red sand that we threw out of the AC air filter!!

 

Was wondering if anyone of you has try this before?

I was walking in walmart looking for 5w-40, but instead bump into this brand.

It intrigues me to read the following:
A good straight mineral engine lubricant refined by modern methods....

but it's non-detergent... what does that means? It is also SAE30 which means our rotatory is suitable to use it right?

 

This is usually used for compressors and the like
Dont want to use in a combustion engine

 

Do not use non-detergent oil in a modern engine. (i.e. one made after your parents were born.)

 

A guy with a nice rebuild 55Chevy came through our service station way back in 1969, and bragged about how clean his oil was with Non Detergent SAE30.

As I checked his oil level I did see that it was somewhat clear and golden, but we were fuel distributors, and at 17, I even knew that: "Yeah, the oil is pretty, but all the dirt from your air is glopping all over your valve train."

In later years, I had customers asking for mo SAE30 instead of turbine oil because it could handle high heat of compressors.

 

Jeez you Americans love wasting your money on UOA's...

In the end you get all this info and what do you do about it???...most from what I read do little or nothing...so what for?

In the end if your coolant is getting low and you can't find a leak with a "normal" pressure tester then odds are you have coolant entry into your Rotary Engine....needs a rebuild.

If you have excess chrome in your UOA it is either Apex Seals/Corner Seals wearing off the chrome on your Rotor Housings or at worse worn Rotor Bearings damaging the Eccentric Shaft journals...Again what are you going to do about it??...Premixing is too late to change flaking or wearing RH chrome....again a rebuild.

You could possibly get YEARS of service/miles out of your engine BEFORE a rebuild is needed, so you let a high chrome UOA worry you to death for a thousand days..when you are better off NOT knowing.

None of this analysis will stop your engine crapping itself....in the end..

 

^Got up on the wrong side of bed, eh?

Your point is mostly right, but we have to find something to waste our money on, since we don't drink as much Foster's as you guys down there!

 

I agree uao's are useless once you have decided what oil to run. Unless you want to go to an extended oil change interval or trying to diagnose a problem--like how well is that air filter actually working.
Its a tool just to use selectively.
We can discuss it over a couple of those Fosters!

 

Well with my coolant seal failure I was not seeing a loss of coolant or smoke from the exhaust and diagnosing the problem was actually pretty difficult. The UOA confirmed the presence of coolant. If I had not been in the habit of testing my oil, I probably would have wasted more time blaming my ignition coils for the misfires, chasing down exhaust leaks, and trying to trouble shoot even more.

I mean eventually it would have gotten bad enough and I would have started to get smoke in the exhaust and a noticeable amount of coolant loss but the UOA told me what i needed to know and I didn't have to pull apart the engine myself to find out

Besides, it's only $20.00 a couple of times a year (or less if you are 40w8/REDRX3RX8).

 

right on--use it to diagnose a problem.

 

I do UOAs because I'm a data geek. It's cheap fun.

 

for me (at least), knowing the weariness is how you prevent and take measures to extend the longevity of the engine.

I mean.. just take this for example, E.g. your health report, if you regularly go for health check-ups to 'detect' or make queries to your body -- it's good to find out if you have any problem vs. someday you realize you have a "lump" (out of no where); with early detection/ prevention, you can easily fight "cancer" at a way earlier stage, which give you a better chance to make a full recovery. or whatever high cholesterol (i.e. too much chrome), diabetes, and etc.

 

Yep, take my coolant seal problem for example. If you catch a problem like that early you can save major parts from being ruined and in turn that will save you a ton during the rebuild process.

 

I like the "cheap fun" idea. Not much of that left anymore.
Wild weekend--buy lotto ticket and get my uoa report in!
cost $21. Heck cant even go to a stupid movie/popcorn/coke for that anymore.

 

Better to be prepared than to be caught with our pants down around our ankles and no money for a rebuild.

I do UOA's to compare my "new" engine results with whatever results I get in the future. Any skewed results and I know that I should probably start putting aside a bit more money in the "just-in-case" tank.