Well......I have been having cold idle issues and misfires and a coil test showed my BHR coils misfiring but thsi pretty much confirms it was not the coils. I will pressure test tonight to confirm. 30,000 mile Mazda reman, meticulously maintained, SOHN, premix, BHR ignition, no cat, etc.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5931654852/

 

Ouch. Sorry to see that. Mazda remans are know for coolant seal problems, no?

That'll teach you to meticulously maintain it rather than flogging the snot out of it! (Sorry, gallows humor.)

 

Yeah, I have read a few issues on it, probably from reusing parts that should have been replaced.


I could have saved some cash by not maintaining it so well Oh well, such is the life of a rotary enthusiast I guess.

 

Not really. I just change the (ordinary dino juice) oil every 3-or-so thousand miles, plugs and air filter every so often, and flog the living **** out of mine. I've had several different rotaries over 100k miles including my Spec RX-7 race car and haven't killed an engine yet. Had an FB over 225k. The '8 only has about 45k, but I beat it mercilessly so I expect it will go over 100k miles. I do pay very, very close attention to water temp.

A Redline A Day Keeps The Mechanic Away.

Transmission? Not so much... ...Until I put in the 2009.

 

not that i'm expecting anything bad (I'll be really annoyed if I get a similar lovegram) but I got my last batch of Mobil 1 10w30 shipped off to Amsoil for analysis tonight.

I'll post my results once I get them back, hopefully by the end of the week.

 

9krpmrx8,
Yeah,As Blackstone says : you should have that .......looked at since you caught in the early stages.

Maybe chemo?


When my 73 RX3 did this on the original engine at 74k miles, I put in a can of block seal a few times to try to glue it, but Mazda gave me a new engine that was pretty good.

I'm surprised Blackstone didn't tell you hurry up and put the head gasket in!

 

Yeah I dunno I guess everyone has different experiences, my first died at 22k on 5W30 dino, second lasted 74k on 10W30 GTX, and now this at 30k (not oil related) and I am down right OCD about usually sub 3,000 mile oil changes, changing plugs once a year, etc., etc. etc. and if you read my threads you will see temps are a constant worry of mine and everyone said I was a worry wart and look what happened

But my tranny has 126,000 hard miles on it with just regular Mazda fluid changes. Redline a day is a given and I always warmed the car up before driving anywhere and watched oil temps like a hawk.

 

Yeah my dad asked if there was a way to change the gaskets I pressurized the coolant system and removed the L2 plug and the coolant just dribbled out of the spark plug hole so it's done but catching it early may have saved some reusable hard parts.

 

Right column is dealer fill (Valvoline 5w30 Im told) left column in Rotella T Triple Protection 10w30 (the mineral not the T5 synthetic blend) Dealer fill went in at 638 miles April 19th and Rotella T 10w30 went in May 7th and 2500 miles. This sample was pulled from the drain hole July 10th. This is a 2010 RX8 GT manual transmission purchased new by me. Mileage on the car is 5000, all compenents.

Iron 16 11
Copp 5 1
Lead 2 2
Chrom 3 4
Alum 3 1
Calcu 1682 2044
Magn 14 10
Zinc 906 1285
Phos 777 986
Bariu 8 0
Moly 381 63
Silico 40 12
Sodi 73 63
Boron 76 0
Visc 40C 38.7 62.6
Vis 100C 7.7 10.3
TAN 1.31 1.41
Flash 340 280 (Closed cup method so this would be quite a bit higher done open cup such as BStone's method)
OXID 14 21
NIT 6 6
KF 1041 786 (Used to determine the water concentration of the base stocks, thus indicating synthetic or mineral. Both are in the range of the minreal oils.)
TBN 5.0 6.9
Fuel 1.12% 1.64% (actual fuel test rather than BStone's method of calculating based upon the flash point. BStone's method would have shown less than 1% likely .5%)
Soot 0 0 (no carbon in oil or evidence of deposit potential. The dispersents of the both oils as well as my fuel additive are allowing the filter to work.)
Glycol 0 0
Visc Ind 165 153
Sulfate By Product 19 23

MPG was down 20% with the Rotella from 22-23 to 20.X.

 

Do you consider that flash point or % fuel to be bad for 2500 miles?

 

Normally its leaning to the bad side, but looking at the Ox and Nit among other things the professional guidence is that the oil could go as far as 4K miles under current operating conditions. Im told that according to the data base my engine is wearing less and appears to be better sealed than most. Im also being recommended RLI for optimal lubrication benefits.

 

#1 If you drove the car properly during that period, yes, you would burn 20% less before you can put the hammer down after breakin as you enjoy your new toy.

#2 Very few people can measure gas mileage close enough to see the 2-3 % difference oil companies claim for thinner oil.

 

Nobody knows which engine has better seals until they fail later.

If two engines had a compression test, you might be able to rate.

Did you do that compression test, yet?

Also, those oil tests are almost meaningless to see which oil wears better, much less which engine wears better.

At this new stage on your engine that uoa was to check for fuel and antifreeze.

The sample might have more to compare at 15-20k miles when most engines stabilize, and quit showing high silicon.

 

Incorrect. The sealing can be reasonably guestimated with fuel dilution, soot, and sulphated by product, same as ring seal in an Otto application. Additionally, this UOA being at this mileage shows how it is wearing in and where it is in that process. Will also help provide guidence as to any gross manufacturing defects.

 

1# Perhaps, but after 1K miles the break in process becomes aggressive thus leading to additional fuel consumption. By 1500 miles the break in process is at its most aggressive including redlines and other performance driving techniques.

#2 Perhaps again, but 20% would none the less be observable as it was. 2%-3% is also noticable with sufficient trending which I have.

 

You seem to know a lot about oil tests, but you claim you have an above average engine which can be guestimated with fuel dilution, AND YOU HAVE LOTS OF FUEL DILUTION!

So I didn't catch your logic.

 

Iluvrevs,

Was that an actual test? If so, by whom? Can you post the results up? Your posts are a little hard to follow honestly.

Thanks

 

9krpmrx8

If you haven't pulled your engine yet I suggest you run a bottle of Bar's leaks in your coolant. I had a coolant leak on my daily beater and this stuff worked great. It is worth a shot.

http://www.barsproducts.com/1111.htm

 

Thanks for the recommendation but that stuff is crap and does more damage than good. If I had a beater maybe, but I am getting new built motor, and with forced induction I am not taking any risks on a patched together engine.

 

Where are you getting the new motor from? Just interested in case I ever need one....

 

www.pineappleracing.com. Rob seemed to be the most knowledgeable and took the time to out what and why he does certain things during a rebuild. and of course I am not getting a standard rebuild.

 

After about 3000km i´ve got folowing results(on German language):
1.pdf is new oil
2.pdf used oil after 3000 km

It is Motul 300V Power 5W-30,synthetic,esterbased...
The car has now about 37000km on tacho.
any suggestions?
Thx

 

% fuel is the biggest problem I see with keeping oil in good condition in the RX-8. I would buy a cheaper oil and change it often. and continue to periodically measure the wear.

 

Looks good man.

 

Looks like I've got piston ring plating problems... hmm