Chrome from the housings?

 

someone earlier suggested the eshaft

 

So I'm thinking about why your BEARINGS are wearing, then, I scroll down some more, and see the excess fuel in the oil.

Another guy had a test a page or two back with even more: 4 %.

The chrome and lead has to be from the bearings, but the gears might give up some chrome.

Fix those fuel injectors, and be sure to premix.

In fact a couple tanks of Techron ( in the bottle and in the fuel at Texaco and Chevron) might clean up the injectors before you take out.

Also, Mobil 1 0w40 is the same weight as 10w30 at low temps, but is 40 weight at operating temps, and would be somewhat helpful with this dilution going on.

 

Your lead is high which means some chrome plating has worn off a bearing area and exposed the softer lead under it.

Also, the eshaft probably gave up some chrome, but it doesn't have lead.

 

Interesting to see that much of the moly(Mo) was taken up by the engine, which should help with reducing the friction and wear.

Motul 300v and redline are probably best oils you can buy. Both ester based and loaded with moly.

 

there is no chrome in the bearings..housings are chrome plated..looks like his apex seals are not getting enough lubrication..

time to run some seafoam trough the OMP injectors and start premixing

 

Piston rings are not recommended as a premix...

 

Interesting observations. My injectors were replaced with new OEM ones about 6,000 miles back due to clogging that was making me run super lean up top (FI). Since putting the new ones in my AFRs have been much better, I would say a bit richer than they should be actually under load.

AFRs under load tend to run in the low 11s high 10s.

I am very interested in the OMP / seal observation. I have noticed some sluggishness with warm starts and (even with a tweaked OMP flow map) I have noticed that my oil consumption rate is down. Is the seafoam procedure for the OMP lines the same one I read about all the time using the (I'm assuming) intake manifold nipples?

Thanks for all the feedback guys!

Shell

 

use the OMP hose that connects to the throttle body boot. let it suck in about 1/3 of the seafom can with engine running. then turn off the engine while letting the omp hose suck in another 1/3 of the seafoam can via residual vacuum allowing seafoam to soak nozzles for next hour. reconnect the omp hose and start the car. run it hard to get max flow trough the OMP nozzles.

 

It was proven that you can suck seafoam through the OMP hose but there is no proof it does anything to unstick clogged oil injectors. Most builders don't recommend cleaning them, they just get replaced if they fail the vacuum test. And if you remove all the stuff to test them you might as well replace them while you are in there. But it's can't hurt.

But if your OMP lines are clogged this procedure won't do anything to help that. If you value you motor and your oil consumption is down, I suggest just replacing the oil injectors and lines if they have a decent amount of mileage on them, it doesn't cost much.

 

Ok, I'm not sure what the top layer of the bearings are, but I've seen pics here of spots being worn through.

IMO that the chrome is more likely from the gears which need antiwear additives in most situations.

 

I'm with you.

How does housing wear get back in the oil with oil seal several inches away?

 

Good catch!

I only saw the 460ppm moly on the used oil, and thought: wow, looks like break-in oil, but it has 730ppm in virgin oil.

Won't the engine get conditioned, and not be able to obsorb any more moly after a few more changes?

 

The only thing i am worried about is the Al and Fe...ist this normal wear or not,and from where it comes?

 

Fe probably comes from side seals rubbing on the side housings

 

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/optional-ports-seafoam-omp-nozzle-cleaning-217177/

Thanks for the pointer. I'll likely run my decarb (both omp and housing) following this procedure over the weekend.

 

My first UOA (Valvoline 5w30 conventional) with apparently high amounts of chrome. Would it be worthwhile to get another UOA on the next oil change, or is it better to wait a few?

 

I would get a couple of tests done so you can get a better idea of what is going on.

 

Not a bad guess, but wrong, the chrome is on the housing, no chrome on or in the seals.

Either way, you are obviously not premixing, and wearing the housing liner out.

 

Blackstone repeatedly makes that mistake. Guess nobody has called them on it yet.

Chrome at 80,000+ miles may be coming from the eccentric shaft main bearings. At least that's what we've seen in other high-mileage engines. Do you track it or run it hard (like you should )?

 

Are you addressing my posted analysis? If you are, I will mention that I have started premixing almost two oil changes ago with Idemitsu premix @ ~0.5 oz. / gal. .


I've been to a couple HPDE events a year or two ago, and I autocross semi-regularly (last one about a month ago).

 

you went trough 4.5 quarts of make up oil in 2900 miles?

 

That was what I put back in after trying to get as much oil out as possible by alternatively jacking up both sides while the oil was draining.

 

oh ok, so what was your omp consumption then?

 

I think I typically go through about 1 qt. between changes.