Nadrealista

UPDATE: Since I first posted this thread 1.3_LittersOfFurry (Shawn) has confirmed with his tests that there is indeed vacuum on the OMP hose that attaches to throttle body boot and that it can be used to clean OMP injectors with seafoam. I believe that cleaning the nozzles should be done at least once a year as a preventative maintenance to keep them clean and in good operating condition.
see his post and video here: https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=509

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cTFf6DeOIEE

Charles R. Hill confirmed that hose connected to "Jet-Air Nozzle System"(12 o'clock position in picture, next to the OMP hose) can be used as a port for introducing seafom into engine for carbon removal purpose. Much better location IMO then trying to do it trough the IM nipples.

Original Post:Couple days ago I came across of this diagram that made me think about different way to administer seafom for engine decarb and possibly clean OMP nozzles.

If you take a look at the attached picture you can see that there are 3 hoses attached to the throttle body boot. Top one( 1 o'clock position) leads to the omp system and the one next to it (12 o'clock) goes directly to intake ports on the rotor housings.

It would seem logical that one could use these to administer seafoam to either clean omp system or do the engine decarb as the nozzle location is ideal to hit the rotor surface(s) and seals with seafoam(or any other cleaner for that matter).

Has anyone used these for those purposes or is there any reason not to use them?

StealthTL

iTrader: (1)

They all end up ahead of the throttle plate, so no vacuum, just a bellows full of Seafoam.

The VFAD line (orange) would be much better, well up in the manifold for dispersion and mixing, and under full vacuum at idle.

Nadrealista

the 12 o'clock line ends up in the intake ports(it splits in two) at the rotor housings there got to be vacuum on that one. I am talking about sucking in seafoam trough the rubber hose not the nipple on the TB boot.

I used VFAD line before to clean up the intake and various intake valves by spraying in seafoam in there.

Nadrealista

anyone else?

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

sry idk but i have a question. i have the k&n v2 intake, if i cap the yellow line at the tb can i remove all of the yellow lines and all parts that go with it? including the electronic sensor, will this keep the vfad open?

thanks jesse

Charles R. Hill

iTrader: (7)

This location is for what is called the "Jet-Air Nozzle System" and they are the ports we use for the procedure you are discussing.

Beodude

iTrader: (3)

If you do the OMP adapter, your oil injectors should stay clean, and running seafoam through the ports is pretty easy.

xexok

All you have to do is pop the line off just behind the throttlebody where it connects, then cap the nipple there and either completely remove the yellow line stuff or just ziptie the hose to something else so it doesnt go anywhere. Much easier to just ziptie it, then if you ever want to go back to stock you just cut the tie and reattach the hose.

Once you remove the hose and cap the nipple you need to hit 5500 rpm to release the vacuum in the line and then the vfad will be open all the time. There was another way to do it thats posted in the Vfad removal DIY but I cant remember it.

Nadrealista

good so it can be used for that purpose, or even running the water trough it with engine running.

> MAO <

And what about the other line?

What is its function?

Vlaze

iTrader: (14)

That picture is only relevant for certain years, '04-'05 I believe. '06+ that line from the vacuum ports on the LIM go to the oil filler tube. Either way you're using the same exact ports in the service instructions anyhow via the hose that attaches to the vacuum ports on the LIM, nothing different.

Only reason I could foresee not wanting to do use this method is you're getting less seafoam in each individual port down in the LIM by distributing it through a hose that splits between the two contrast to turning the engine over to suck in seafoam for each port individually for a better cleaning effect. I'd suggest sticking to procedures to get more direct application on the rotors using the 2 ports on the LIM individually, not together.

Charles R. Hill

iTrader: (7)

We use the Jet-Air nozzle nipples in tandem to best assure equal SeaFoam distribution to both front and rear rotor housings. Additionally, there is very little carbon present in the LIM and the vast majority of problematic carbon appears on the rotor faces, themselves.

At the very least, we have performed this service at the past two or three SoCal Dyno Meets and our customers seemed happy with the results.

Nadrealista

As Charles said the reason I would prefer to use Jet-Air nozzle is more direct path to rotor face(s)/housing.

I also thought that some of the carbon deposits are in the area of side and apex seals?

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

In my experience with this engine...I have found that tracking seems to result in much less carbon than daily driving. I have pulled 2 engines out of my car...both tracked hard...and found very little to no carbon. The 2 engines I have pulled with no tracking have been carboned to the point that the APV's would barely turn ( 1 wouldn't allow me to remove the LIM without a LOT of carb cleaner soaking)

Small sample size in reality...but for me good enough to tell me that tracking hard = much less of a carbon problem

Nadrealista

What is the best way of cleaning various IM valves without removing the IM?

I once used VFAD orange vacum line and sprayed deep creep (seafoam spray) while my buddy was revving the engine in various rpm ranges to activate different IM paths and vales. is that the best way to do it?

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

The SSV can be removed failly easily and cleaned...and you can seafoam the APV barrels when you are at it by spraying it into the APV runners and manually turning the APV actuator gear with the actuator removed. You will have to remove the alt and UIM to do that..but you should be able to get things failrly clean without removing the LIM ( difficult ith the engine in the car)

Nadrealista

I know, but I am talking about regular maintenance of cleaning them by spraying the cleaner with engine running trough the whole rpm range to activate various IM valves and get cleaner on them. This way you keep them clean and eliminate the need to pull the IM when they get gunked up.

so the question is will intake valves open/close when you reach certain rpms even if the car is sitting still in the neutral?

> MAO <

Unfortunately some valves (e.g. : the SSV) do not move while sitting and revving :-/

Nadrealista

at what rpm do they activate while driving?

another question is can one open and close SSV valve manually with engine revving in the 3-6K RPM range?

expo1

Would the Jet-Air Nozzle System hose ( 12:00 one in the photo ) also be a good one to stick in a cup of oil for the starting up phase of the Seafoam procedure?

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

It is easy to activate the SSV...just open and close it by hand...the APV is more difficult...but it does cycle when the ignition is turned on...so you could spray it...let it sit...and cycle the key on and off to work the valve

You can also remove the APV actuator motor and turn the gear by hand.....

Nadrealista

is there a good write up on how all these intake valves work together and what conditions activate them?

RX8Soldier

iTrader: (24)

Here's one. I'll check for another
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-remove-ssv-beta-teaser-video-184663/

edit: I know what you're asking OP. I'll give you the numbers, but they're probably off a bit lol

APV opens around 6300rpm
SSV opens around 7500rpm

I know there are others, but I'm having a brain fart...

1.3_LittersOfFurry

iTrader: (4)

The last time i seafoamed, I used a vacuum pump to open and close the SSV and VIV. Took 3 of us but wasn't hard. One open and closed the valves, while one kept the engine going. And I was manning the spray gun with seafoam in it, shooting into different areas. After that we did a normal seafoam cleaning and let it soak in there for about 1.5hours. Cars been running much better after doing that. I'm still getting misfires, but it's because my coils are failing. Not much I can do but wait for the bhr kit to get here now....

AE92

iTrader: (1)

okay so i tried the OP's idea out and heres my results. I took the vacuum line from the intake accordion that leads to the OMP nozzles. i noticed it had some suction to it but NOT like normal engine idle vacuum from behind the throttle plate. but with my thumb over it it definetly had some kind of suction to it. SO i poured about one tablespoon in it and went to the back of the car and smelled the seafoam being burned so i went and poured about an ounce of seafoam into the vacuum line. the engine started to stumble very slightly so i put my thumb over the tube again and let it build negative pressure and then released my thumb to let the seafoam continue thru the nozzles. Results oil consumtion wise is that my oil level dropped more than normal. BUT by normal that was MY car which has had low oil consumption so now i have stopped premixing and just let it be. as for idle it idles a little higher than 800 now. prior was steady at 775-800ish now its solid above 800-875ish. sorry no compresion tester here.