Meh, I don't think it does anything. We tried it on Shadys car and it didn't do ****, it's still not consuming oil so the injectors are FUBAR. As for the one injector being clean, well...

These were pulled at the same time.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5331811235/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5331811295/

 

Yeah, I know, there is really no way to tell unless you go threw the process of before and after shots to see if it's really working. It could very well be when I got the zoom-zoom thing done by the dealership for my compression test that cleaned everything out, who knows. I'm just happy its clean and I'm burning oil like a son of a bitch.

 

Has anyone tried this with MMO? I might since i have a whole bottle of it in my garage

 

I used MMO in my rx-7's before, never an 8.

 

I run it all the time in my 8. I usually premix with valvoline 2 stroke but since MMO is allegedly a solvent I run it every once in a while as a cleaner.
It might just be the Placebo effect but I actually feel a difference on the gas pedal when I fill up with MMO. Its a little touchier and more responsive, whereas when I premix with 2 stroke I just feel a smoother idle but no throttle difference.

 

I use to add it to my oil, I have a uncontrollable fear of engine oil sludge lol. I think that's why I always change my oil at 2k.

 

Never ran anything in my oil lol just the gas tank and did the decarb with seafoam through the LIM ports. But I might just give this method a try. As preventative maintenance I guess

 

Some please help a noob. Which one should I use to clean the oil nozzles? I don't quite understand 12'o clock and 1 ' o clock lingo. Sorry not that smart

 

 

Knew someone would get a kick out of it.

 

I don't get it... What's so funny again?

 

Just put them in an ultrasonic cleaner and they will clean up nice

 

If your not sure what 12:00 is or 1:00 in terms of orientation when referencing to a circle(or clock for that matter), maybe you should have it done by a professional?

 

Well my issue has always been where do you guys actually reference the center point from? Based on reading the thread I am guessing it's the accordian tube.

Did I get it right? So 1 o'clock to clean oil nozzles?

 

Yes.
We reference to a clock, in comparison to standing in front of the car looking at the intake tube towards the back of the vehicle.

 

After doing a lot of experimenting with seafoam (soaking parts and such). I'd have to say I'm very disappointed in the product when it comes to removing hard carbon deposits... Seems to be good at removing oil film, sludge, and very light carbon deposits but that's it.

 

Agreed, In my professional use of cleaning carbon gum - seafoam did nothing. GM Top Engine cleaner worked 10x better, although expensive in comparison.

 

Have you see my thread where I borescoped the rotors before and after?

Soaking doesn't do anything, ingesting while the engine is running is slightly effective, but about as effective as distilled water (which costs 100 times less). I can't advocate seafoam as a chemical to decarb with.

 

Yep. When the time comes I was going to borrow a borescope and see what I find too. Interesting read none-the-less.

I want to see what I find with GM TEC versus seafoam which I've witnessed both products effectiveness against heavy carbon deposits.

Not discrediting your findings, though the carbon deposits we tried to remove with water were a fail, though better than seafoam.

 

Agreed. I expect that flashing the water to steam was the main difference that made water work. The parts sitting in a tub in front of you plain water certainly wouldn't work, but maybe pressurized steam? Other chemicals are easily used at that point though.

I am back in the market for another 8, and I plan on repeating that test, only with other chemicals. ATF was suggested as well, and I'd like to get my hands on Mazda Zoom Zoom cleaner to see if it does anything better than Seafoam or not.

 

I ATF'd my 8 prior to engine replacement. Driveability sucked, took forever to clear out. Smelled for weeks. Never felt the same after. I repeated the procedure with seafoam and that helped restore some driveability.

ATF smoked worse than any chemical I've seen. I'd advise against it!

Since were on the topic, real quick. I wanted to mention for long term storage if ATF or premix pushed in the housings for winter storage would do more harm than good/ preventing oxidation and flash-rust, by turning the engine over by hand once a month or biweekly. Just curious your thoughts without getting too much off topic?


Quick idea I just thought of with pressurizing water. We have a fuel rail cleaner that is pressurized. I'm sure I could jimmy-rig up a contraption to inject pressurized water into the system and see what happens.

 

[QUOTE=viprez586;4517394]Yes.
We reference to a clock, in comparison to standing in front of the car looking at the intake tube towards the back of the vehicle.


Thanks I would have never guessed that. Always thought the reference was the center of the pic in the first post.

 

Yeah, I don't expect ATF to work all that great by comparison, and my neighbors would be rather irate with me over it.

Yes, ATF in housings that have been sitting has been a common tactic to restore the seals enough to get it started. I expect premptively adding ATF would be fine, subject to the same drawbacks as you experienced.

 

Yes, I saw that thread. I got to see inside mine before, freaking scarey. Might give the Gm cleaner a try.

My only experience with using atf was on my flooded 90vert. Oh god the smoke was intense...

 

Empty parking lot FTW, only downside is hauling tools, tickets, and running into potential issues. (Side note: we just got rushed out of an empty lot by the cops. All we were doing was getting my girl more comfortable driving stick in my car. Ridiculous! He said we looked like we were attempting burnouts LOL)

Last winter I used Idemitsu to soak the housings over winter. Worked good. Cleared rather quick. Didn't foul/deposit plugs as bad as ATF did.

Haha that's great. Yeah we cooked a ~90s vert with ATF as well. Supposedly there's a fuel pump/mpi relay under the column you can manipulate when they flood to cut-off fuel supply and once it kicks over you can immediately push back in.
(The engine was poorly turning over, after a few days of ATF soaking it rotated smooth as butter. Only lasted a few months till it blew however.)
I'm skeptical of the ATF method. Older rotary guys swear by it though.

Keep me posted on your GM TEC results!