Looking forward to seeing that one. The VII's aside I think the M1 0w40 is a good choice.

 

So far I am happy, the real test will be when I am fully tuned and flogging the crap out of her for 2,000 miles

 

Blackstone rules. They even called to ask me about my old engine and what happened to it after I found coolant in the oil on the last UOA. It's good to know my new engine is doing good I just need to check my air filter setup, it is my own creation after all

but man I love Mobil1 0W-40, look at that viscosity

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/7600045010/

 

Bump.

 

Ok, I'll bite.

Man, that's a stellar uoa for only 2k miles!

You must have some nice fuel injectors considering the high leftover vis, and low fuel.

 

Sup man, I was wondering if you were still lurking

Yeah I thought I would have a lot of fuel in it since I am running so rich right now with the tune I am running for boost.

 

Yeah, I lurk some, but don't get to scratch itch very much.

I'd definitely get the right tune, and not worry about fuel dilution.

That 0w40 can take it.

I've been preoccupied with my house designs, but will be looking for a track day after Oct 8th.

 

That looks really good considering the new engine, which is where I think the Sil is coming from as its washed out. The oil seems a good fit and the engine seems very well put together. Your shear is only around 6% which with the fuel dilution you know is going on is outstanding. This beats the next most shear stable grade 5w20 UOAs by about 3% which further says the M1 is of top quality I think. Now I need to figure out how I justify 11.50$/qrt oil.

 

Awesome. You can find it on sale all the time somewhere. I went looking this time around and I got the 5 quart jug from Advance Autoparts for $27.99 last weekend and NAPA also had them for $5.49 a quart as well. I usually get the oil and filter deal from Autozone for $27.99 when they have it and stock up. Plus with Autozone I have a rewards card so after I gain points (doesn't take long) I get a $20.00 credit.

 

you doing wot throttle running now?
I do like my redline 5w/30 but the mobil seems to be treating you well.
did you move your airfilter outside? is it a k&N?

 

I am doing some WOT runs, maybe not 100% but pretty hard. My filter is outside but it is not a K&N but a Wix that I made to work, I think the flange might be leaking a little and I think the filter is too small even though it's for a Turbo Chevy HHR.

 

then that is a great result--no fuel dilution, air filter obviously working ok--just a little silica which can be from different things. viscosity is ok etc--ding ding--you have a winner! both in the tune and the oil.

 

I left the previous fill in and ran it another 1,150 miles which included a track day last Friday in 100F. Oil is still in the car and I will resample at 5K miles adding addtl testing for TBN, TAN, and hopefully Oxid and Nitr.

 

Nice results, not too shabby.

 

So Mobil-1 0w40 is the best?? What about the threads saying synthetic is a crime?

 

This analysis is after having switched from Valvoline 5w30 conventional to Mobil 1 0w40 and having already gone through two oil changes since. That chrome is still haunting me.

 

Not sure on the chrome but if it has leveled off then that is good. It could be that the 5W-30 just wasn't offering enough protection. Are you premixing?

 

1/2 oz. Idemitsu per gallon ever since ~79k.

 

I still get back to a mild rotor wobble causing higher FE wear from the apex seals and higher chrome from them making too much contact with the housings. I’m still pretty noob though. The oil did exceptional.

 

Yeah I agree, which is why I think a lot of time at redline is a bad idea. Maskedferret, you redline a lot?

 

Question:
If the apex seals are wearing chrome on the housings, how are those chrome particles getting into the oil? I've been puzzling this type of question for a few days (not specific to chrome, but any other apex seal wear items). I can somewhat better understand side seal related wear, since it's at least alot closer to the oil control rings and less barriers in the way, but I can't think of a "normal" way for wear particles to get from the housing to the oil stream.

Edit:
Seems like any wear particles would be from the e-shaft, stationary gears, oil passages themselves, etc...

 

My thinking is that under certain loads the engine twists and the sealing is not maintained, allowing cross contamination of oil from the combustion chamber.

 

Then this would contaminate the oil quite a bit from the combustion itself, right? Fuel, soot, etc... I guess that this is where the fuel amount comes from too then?

 

Yes, that is my thinking, that fuel washes down between the seals and gets into the oil. Possibly when it's cold?

 

Kinda, ya. Before my next UOA, I'll have to try and hold back my right foot for 3000 miles or so.