Smutterbutter Build
04-10-2013, 04:34 PM
#51
Listen...you smell that?
Thread Starter
Looks good so far!
My $.02 if you are confident enough to tear apart and engine you can put one back together.
Get your irons lapped and nitrated, if you have anything over .003 of wear on the irons.
Get new housings and spec out your rotors, get OEM mazda seals and do the rebuild yourself.
It's a fun way to bond with your car
.
My $.02 if you are confident enough to tear apart and engine you can put one back together.
Get your irons lapped and nitrated, if you have anything over .003 of wear on the irons.
Get new housings and spec out your rotors, get OEM mazda seals and do the rebuild yourself.
It's a fun way to bond with your car
.Things I've gotten from Pineapple so far...
Engine stand adapter
Bearing Press Tools
Dial indicator w/ magnetic base
long feeler gauges
Flywheel stopper
54mm socket for flywheel
step wear indicator
V-Blocks
04-10-2013, 05:02 PM
#52
you are learning aren't you!
OK--a little hint from the peanut galley--look at the flywheel stopper--if you use that to tighten or untighten the flywheel--then it is possible you can shift the rear iron out of place just a tad.
remember the engine bolts dont have a lot of torque on them---they act in totality--but if you put a LOT of pressure on one side of the engine---you have to be careful.
I would rather not use it.
Another hint--if you ever have to drop the trans?--recheck the Tq on the engine bolts.
I am amazed that they hold the engine together:0
OK--a little hint from the peanut galley--look at the flywheel stopper--if you use that to tighten or untighten the flywheel--then it is possible you can shift the rear iron out of place just a tad.
remember the engine bolts dont have a lot of torque on them---they act in totality--but if you put a LOT of pressure on one side of the engine---you have to be careful.
I would rather not use it.
Another hint--if you ever have to drop the trans?--recheck the Tq on the engine bolts.
I am amazed that they hold the engine together:0
04-10-2013, 07:59 PM
#53
Listen...you smell that?
Thread Starter
you are learning aren't you!
OK--a little hint from the peanut galley--look at the flywheel stopper--if you use that to tighten or untighten the flywheel--then it is possible you can shift the rear iron out of place just a tad.
remember the engine bolts dont have a lot of torque on them---they act in totality--but if you put a LOT of pressure on one side of the engine---you have to be careful.
I would rather not use it.
Another hint--if you ever have to drop the trans?--recheck the Tq on the engine bolts.
I am amazed that they hold the engine together:0
OK--a little hint from the peanut galley--look at the flywheel stopper--if you use that to tighten or untighten the flywheel--then it is possible you can shift the rear iron out of place just a tad.
remember the engine bolts dont have a lot of torque on them---they act in totality--but if you put a LOT of pressure on one side of the engine---you have to be careful.
I would rather not use it.
Another hint--if you ever have to drop the trans?--recheck the Tq on the engine bolts.
I am amazed that they hold the engine together:0
04-12-2013, 12:19 AM
#56
Listen...you smell that?
Thread Starter
WTF! Fuzzy release bearing
Rear Main Bearing
Hard to get a focused shot of this thing but as far as I can tell it looks reusable
Front Main Bearing. Shitty pic, but you can see some pretty serious wear, time to pop that SOB out!
Rear Main Bearing
Hard to get a focused shot of this thing but as far as I can tell it looks reusable
Front Main Bearing. Shitty pic, but you can see some pretty serious wear, time to pop that SOB out!
04-12-2013, 12:36 AM
#58
Listen...you smell that?
Thread Starter
So if I was measuring correctly Eshaft runout was only 0.001 in. Still yet to measure journals.
Corner seal step wear was:
Rear iron - 0.004
Middle iron - 0.002 and 0.003
Front iron - 0.002
I guess that puts the irons +/- the rear in the reusable category once lapped. What I can't find any info on is the groove that has formed by the exhaust port of each iron face. The deepest one I fount was about 0.006 in deep. Is that game over for the iron?
This is the groove I'm talking about
Corner seal step wear was:
Rear iron - 0.004
Middle iron - 0.002 and 0.003
Front iron - 0.002
I guess that puts the irons +/- the rear in the reusable category once lapped. What I can't find any info on is the groove that has formed by the exhaust port of each iron face. The deepest one I fount was about 0.006 in deep. Is that game over for the iron?
This is the groove I'm talking about
04-12-2013, 09:35 AM
#60
Listen...you smell that?
Thread Starter
I'll bust out the better camera and try to snap a decent pic. The gouge I circled in the pic above yours runs for just a few mm's off the tail of the port, and on all the irons ranges from 0.003-0.006 in deep. Granted mine are from a 100k mile engine, I barely see the beginning of a groove like that in your pic. Is this from the side seal I'm wondering?
04-12-2013, 08:40 PM
#62
Listen...you smell that?
Thread Starter
All that passes over that part of the iron is the side seals and the rotor itself,no? The rotors look pretty good to me, all side seals too.
04-14-2013, 08:59 PM
#65
Listen...you smell that?
Thread Starter
Agreed. I had been using a pocket cam and my phone for all the photos so far for fear of dropping a nice one into either the parts cleaner or cement floor. Brought out the best camera I have for these pics of the rear iron. This groove exists on every surface of the irons and varies from about 0.002in to the worst of 0.006in.
04-14-2013, 09:56 PM
#67
Listen...you smell that?
Thread Starter
Money Shot! Middle Housing, rear face I believe, definitely the worst of the bunch. I would also like to add for all those concerned, photography is not my day job.
04-17-2013, 07:15 AM
#71
Listen...you smell that?
Thread Starter
Been trying to source a reusable middle housing over the last few days. Finding it pretty difficult to find one with decent pics let alone how much wear it has. IF anybody knows a good place to find one I'd appreciate the help. Did come across a fairly local renesis for sale that's owner is opting to swap a V6 instead of replace the rotary. Seems like transplanting a cheetah's heart with that of a baboon but different strokes for different folks I guess. Buying the shortblock would be a bit of a crapshoot especially since the current owner doesn't know much of the history. But on the otherhand I may get a set of usable irons and maybe even a decent rotor housing out of it if I'm really lucky. And I get to have a blast taking yet another engine apart! Powersmith!
