There is a difference between static and dynamic balancing too. There are differing schools of though on how necessary the difference is After seeing both...dynamic is more accurate by far

 

it looks like atkins can do dynamic balancing.....I iwll talk to them next week to see what the cost is.

 

each stamp grade should be within 50 grams, someone corrent me if wrong.

but even 50 grams is a big difference when the thing spins at 3k rpm(9k at flywheel ...)

you should pay attention to the front and rear counterweight more than the rotors itself

another good thing about racing beat rotor set is that they locked the gears down with snap rings, so the gear will stay on the rotors forever no matter how high the rpm is.

 

50g is a lot......almost 2oz

I won't be doing the rb rotors this build....maybe next

You say pay attention to the front and rear counterweight.....what exactly do you mean. As far as how they play in "balancing" or being a specific weight?

 

huh?
Seriously?
Different weights for different set ups. For example if you use a light flywheel--you will need a different counterbalance weight........

If you REALLY want to balance--do it with the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate all attached.

 

yea that didnt realy make sense (distraced when I posted) your saying include them...gotcha....I thought you were saying something special

I read somewhere (cant remember) that if you are going to balance do it with everything

I threw around the idea of lightened FW but as things are playing out dont think it will fit in this build

 

With the stock FW...the counterweight is built in so you need it....the PP and disc doen't make much difference in an ideal sense...they usually are OK

With an aftermarket flywheel that uses a seperate counterweight...the flywheel is usually OK as well...

 

the fins on oil cooler 1 are now straightened and 9 years of rocks and bugs are in my driveway

 

You can balance it with Flywheel, stock or aftermarket, they will just remove a bit of material on both ends to counter the weight.

but u don't need to balance the Clutch/PP.

 

ranges vary significantly

http://www.rotaryengine.com/services/rotatingbala.htm

http://atkinsrotary.com/store/produc...roductid=16839

 

 

its what I do best....but in the mean time I have nothing to do

I did just finalize my last few orders and now I am in the shipping waiting game.

Tomorrow is a day of cleaning, evaluating the tranni and other misc stuff....probably going to swing by 9k's if they get working before I get too tired

 

I might swing by is the weather is nice and easy.

 

cool, I found some pilers of yours when I was cleaning my oil cooler, I will bring them

 

time to clean the engine bay, add some heat shielding to the cat converter ( so the floorboard and console doesnt get hot), check the driveshaft for u joint binding, make a heat shield for the exhaust header, add a super duper secondary radiator with in line fluid thermostat, vent the oil coolers better (what happened to the fan you were looking at?), seam wield the 2 cross supports, and port your throttle body.
It never ends.

 

cat....what cat

will do on the DS

plan on making the heat shield when I finalize my header plan (more than likely RB)

I wasnt planning on running a 2nd rad....how would you mount it horizontal?

vents enlarges, fins straightened, cleaned and thinking of going with this spal fan
http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/..._Code=30103011

? weld the 2 cross supports?

in the plan with other porting

I like that it never ends, esp when they are fairly cheap DIY's

 

mount it on the front of the front support beam and use a remote fluid thermostat. or you could buy RX8Permormance packaged one.

 

^ I like the mounting hardward with that one much better

does anyone have any info on how to do coolant and oil passage work before I begin assembling the engine? from the little I know it is fairly simple just tedious

 

I guess you can bring these next week...

 

It requires patience. A lot of patience
There are 2 lines of thought in general: Open the restrictors\holes up and "add fins\increase the cooling surface".

I like the second idea better but some holes can be widened a bit as well

http://www.racingbeat.com/RX7-1975-1...ml?id=WkHiqI7L
This is the only decent pic I found, make sure to buy a long shaft dremel bit or it will be a pity.

 

cool man, that is the first decentl photo I have seen

 

there is also a way of helping to cool the sparkplug area. The water jackets around the sparkplugs are improved from the 13B days but they can still be modified to help even more. Now I dont know the details--it seems to be a guarded secret by some, but when Cam ( Pettit Racing) built my present engine it came with an "extra" hole that been bored into the space between the trailing and leading plugs. The hole was capped of course--but there is something he does in this area so the plug area is cooled better. He says after this mod the housings never develope the cracks that some see from overheating that spot.
I am still gathering data on our overall cooling package--
I can say this now in addition to what all has already been said.
DO NOT TAKE THE RESTRICTOR OUT OF THE HEATER HOSE AND IF YOU DONT HAVE ONE PUT ONE IN.
I have some strong preliminary findings that points to the heater coolant supply being too large if the restrictor is not present. That coolant supply bypass's the radiator and remix's with the radiator coolant in the thermostat housing. Its never cooled ( unless you have the heater on, and its a BIG line for a heater. The restrictor narrows it down to smaller than the internal diameter of a 3/8 hose. Between the heater and the TB bypass , a fair amount of coolant never goes through the radiator and we need every drop we can get.

The rx8 performance secondary radiator kit is a very good thing to get if you live in a hotter climate ( over 90F ambient). The fluid thermostat that is in that package acts like the oem resistor.

More to come on cooling later this year after I have more hard data ( water pump flow rates etc etc), one hint --evidence is pointing ( not finalized) toward inadequete flow with the oem coolant "package" at less than 3 K rpm and 20 mph. Better fan control may be able to curcumvent this.
Also metal stress's at critical points from heat soak after shut down is being suspected but this also is still being analyized--so NOTHING definite yet---except about the restrictor.

 

maybe thats why the s2 have 3 fan speed instead of 2?

also for the spark plug area, you can cut some fits at the water jacket to aid cooling, rb and bdc do those mods and it seems that it works really well on high hp engines.

 

on the RX8Performance radiator are you talking the one that comes with the aluminum tray?


I think I am going to do the RB method bse posted above....I have my cracked housings to practice on

 

so cool story.............

I was removing my coolant overflow tank to clean it (dreaded coolant light) and while trying to get to the underneath hose clamp for the "over fill drain" the nipple on the radiator broke off.

did I just screw myself into a new radiator?