J8635621

iTrader: (10)

Weight of rotor is good enough? I figured some sort of dynamic measurement would be far superior since it spins pretty fast.

houstonrx8er

iTrader: (8)

I am going to see if my old irons are in tolerances and maybe have them lapped

I need a 3" micrometer now

houstonrx8er

iTrader: (8)

^ I am sure there is but I have to assume Mazda did at least 1 thing right on my reman

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

i think what Team is referring too is at the increased rpms the better the seal should be due to the action of centrifugal force on the apex seals?
At the same time--the engine will actually run at a very high rpm without a apex seal even in place.
Trick is cranking it. It doesnt run well either lol.
Team I do remember good analogies--that was a good one you posted some time back.
You used the same e shaft/ rotors that came out of the same engine right?

houstonrx8er

iTrader: (8)

yep I followed that (I watched all Rob's vids 2 or 3 times.)

I forget my specific weights but they were very close to eachother (its somewhere in this thread). The letters are "C"

Chino_rx3

iTrader: (1)

I'm sorry but a balance my understanding helps performance and smooth Rpms ,, I've seen many many rotary builds with no balancing at all and many last a long time and perform good, I've seen some like this but I've been told, oil pressure , Gas starvation etc, not a balancing issue. Im not balancing mine and I'm ordering final parts for my build and pressing my stationary bearing this weekend hopefully so once I get my parts in is going together and hopefully soon I'll be running around. Everything is stock no port at all just my BHR ignition kit that's it. Good luck bro but if I was you I'll just get a complete new engine and start fresh buying parts sell this parts to make up for new engine you may have way better luck.

houstonrx8er

iTrader: (8)

Thanks man, but I am good with all my still new parts. I will get it figured out and be on the road soon enough

Chino_rx3

iTrader: (1)

Not your new parts I mean core an engine with low low miles and start from their , swap your new parts to new donor I think with an engine with very low miles your safe as along the engine is good. I think you will save Aton and be better off. Just saying

houstonrx8er

iTrader: (8)

oh I got cha...something to consider

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

aha= now I realize more into what Team was saying--leakage from chamber to chamber will also increase the likihood of detonation and could be a tuning nightmare--those weird a/f ratios you where seeing were likely from not having a stable combustion chamber pressure.

houstonrx8er

iTrader: (8)

yep....could be the culprit

se3p_s

Is solid corner seals are good or bad because recently i am going buy parts from Atkins rotary...

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

oem corner seals guys---come on now. This is a tried and true product. When it comes to seals on a NA street driven engine--unless you go ceramic--there are NONE better than oem. the only thing i would consider is having the taller seals/corner seals installed.

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

To be fair nothing on this engine is tried and true, that's why its still considered an experiment.

That said from what I just researched solid corner seals are a no go.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

lol--true that! They are just the best that I know off --so far.

houstonrx8er

iTrader: (8)

I have solid corner seals....just not mazdas

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

OEM mazda is a two piece setup. the only solids on the market are atkins.

houstonrx8er

iTrader: (8)

I am just not sure I want to mill the rotors for taller seals?

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Cam at Pettit racing has milled a number of rotors for the taller seals. Dont attempt that yourself--it takes a laser--seriously.
if you know for certain you are going FI it will be worth it. If you are staying NA--probably not.

houstonrx8er

iTrader: (8)

oh no...I wouldnt do that myself....lmao....I know my limits

I posted a link earlier were Goopy is offering that service for $250 I beleive.....FI in a plan down the road just dont know how much my will do now

houstonrx8er

iTrader: (8)

ugh...all my tools will be here mid week....I am so impatient

houstonrx8er

iTrader: (8)

I was wrong...nothing like christmas in july.... got some tools and my holster...been wait for a year for this thing.

E-shaft has 0 run out
edit: I did not measure it on the sheet....I know thats what you guys are thinking.

edit: Rob suggested to run the irons through a heat cycle 4 or 5 times before I measure them....kind of interesting......if I am going to be **** retentive I might as well be **** retentive

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

I told u it's not e shaft. It rarely fail, unless some idiot torque the belt down with an impact or the bearing completely failed and chew the e shaft at the same time


Throw the apex seals away, go OEM or ceramics, new housing, DONE

houstonrx8er

iTrader: (8)

ordering oem all the way around

Slightly used atkins for sale

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

2 piece is bettet for sealing at low speed and idle.

OEM corner seals have dlc on it and will last pretty much the life of the engine.