before you tear it down--get a compression test and see if any faces are giving good compression. You can do this with a normal auto part store compression tester---see if you have equal numbers on all rotor faces. the numbers are not important right now--just that they are equal-or very close to equal.
before you jump on a tear down--MAKE SURE THIS IS THE PROBLEM.
I still wonder why it cranked so well the first time.

 

The better question is why is it slowly building compression over time?

 

am pretty sure the seals and springs all faced the proper way....they were nicely color coded for a dumby like me.

I will try to get a compression tester this weekend and do a test when I get back from Houston Sunday.

 

but is it? do you say that just because it will somewhat start on its own now?

I forgot to do a vacuum test last night but I will post up the #'s before I leave this afternoon.

 

The fact that it is starting on its own is a testament to that. Even if its not every time its still getting better.

I'm sure your vacuum at idle hasn't changed much.

The better test is to see how much faster is the engine sucking in the 2 cycle oil through the service ports.

 

well dont tell anyone but I stalled it backing out of the driveway and had to suck oil in it to get it started....I was by myself.....I would say it was more effective than when you and I did it.

 

Well Hoss-05 and I did unscientific test last night and used gorilla super glue and and glued two bolts together and then heated it up after it dried with a lighter and the SG almost immediately burned off and the bolts separated. So I highly doubt it stays put when the engine is fired up.

Just drive it man!

 

part of me that wants to drive it to houston but there is a "small" responsible part of me that says......"are you sure you want to do that"

being that it runs great leads me to belive it would make it just fine but I would hate to ruin brand freaking new housings, irons, cryo seals, cryo springs

from all the conversations I have had there is 1 consistency. The car should be working as expected if I did everything correctly. That is obviously not the case

 

well after an unplanned day on the lake yesterday I am wipped smooth out..... my "office job" legs are like jello and I dont think I could actually do any work on the 8 unless it was from my back.

I iwll get compression/vacuum results posted tomorrow but I am pretty convieneced (and accepting of) the motor has to come out

 

Sucks

Beat the crap out of mine on Friday....over 4 hrs of semi hard track time...and it didn't go boom..so I guess it's OK

 

nice.....bastard, I look forward to the day I can get back on mine.

 

Sucks--but you are learning a lot. I guess thats something positive to focus on?

Always learning---i am tearing my ignition harness apart and upgrading those coil skinny wires. I am also installing a kenne bell boost a spark . Cant decide to solder or to use high quality crimps. As far as i know no other rotary engine has used one of these.
Always learning something-- for me-- sometimes it is the hard way.
Still sucks

 

I am good with learning just wish it didnt take so long....

I have a meeting that I scheduled otherwise I would have skipped it, then I am off to get a compression tester and post some results...probably right after lunch. then I will start disassembing my baby again....glad I saved the baggies.....

kenne bell boost a spark is a cool concept, good luck! and btw....when possible....solder....lmao

 

Let me know if you need a hand this week, I can come by after work. You will need your stand right?

 

Hopefully your compression results will turn out well....

Remember a cryo-treated seal will take substantially longer to break in then a none treated one.

 

I think no matter what after 400 miles the thing should start on its own

I will get the compression results and if confirmed I will start to tear the motor down and we can yank it out this week/weekend. While I wait on seals to get here I will re-clean everything and go from there.

 

well now that I have procrastinated due to being way out of shape I finaly got the compression tester this morning and plan on leaving a little early to see what comes of it.

so basically I screw this in to the leading plug, crank over the motor and record the result from each face (I assume I will have a read a bouncing needle???)

I dont assume the motor will run like the instructions say so that wont really work (and of course my compression issues are not at higher RPM)

 

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/ro...lder/comp.html

 

beautiful

 

I can guarantee you that your compression is low. The only question at this point is if it's coming from the cryo seals initial wear in period, or is something fubar in there?

I'm still thinking the compression is getting more solid overtime. I'm thinking this because you are able to start it occasionally and the oil is being sucked through the service ports at a faster rate.

That said at what point will the compression stop increasing?

 

Cryo seals? Are you not using only Mazda seals in this engine? I have a general rule in regards to engine building. If you can't afford Ianetti, you need to use factory Mazda. Nothing else exists.

 

Interesting...can you elaborate? (and yes I know the general differences in ceramic/cryo/oe)

I think the same thing but I am timid about continuing to drive it. I think the key will be are all the sides of the rotor faces similar in compression readings or is there 1 (or more) that are leaking like a sieve

 

I thought the Adkins seals were OEM but cryo treated? I of of the opinion that the NRS ceramics are as good as the Ianetti stuff but without the fancy box or stellar reputation.

 

I think their side seals are the same but the corner/apex are atkins specific

 

I read a ton of stuff on seals and ultimately decided on OEM's (except coolant seals) even though Pineapple was pushing Ianetti's. No one has put more R&D into them than Mazda. But you know what they say about opinions.