an RX8er's rebuild thread
right the mecanical gauge works on an expanding gas principle. I think its boron. if there is a big pinch in the line or it was bent ever so more than it needed ( easy to do) some or all of the gas can escape. This throws the gauge way off. So just check it in hot water.
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what was I thinking
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right the mecanical gauge works on an expanding gas principle. I think its boron. if there is a big pinch in the line or it was bent ever so more than it needed ( easy to do) some or all of the gas can escape. This throws the gauge way off. So just check it in hot water.
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what was I thinking
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yes and no
it starts fairly well when its cold but yesterday I started it to leave work but got caught up with something so I turned it off. when I went back to leave 20min later had to push it I am currently at the 350mile mark but only like 100 after I got rid of the super premix gas
it starts fairly well when its cold but yesterday I started it to leave work but got caught up with something so I turned it off. when I went back to leave 20min later had to push it I am currently at the 350mile mark but only like 100 after I got rid of the super premix gas
Well hopefully when you get a full fresh tank of gas in all will be resolved. A good road trip might be what it needs but it would suck if you had to tow it back for some reason.
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what was I thinking
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I have already filled it up with 5/8th fresh gas....my gas light just came on today so time to put more in
so far the longest concecutive drive is just over an hour with no issues....how bad could 3hrs be.....lmao
so far the longest concecutive drive is just over an hour with no issues....how bad could 3hrs be.....lmao
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what was I thinking
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cool, it will probably be sunday if at all. the whole reason for the trip is my mother in law is getting married and my sister in law has a huge todo list for my wife and me...ugh
PM is being sent
PM is being sent
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what was I thinking
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so I am thinking I want to add a "flow" switch to the oil cooler fan thermostat. The fan runs alot and I think it might be affecting airflow at speeds....just a theory and the switches seem cheap.
Is there a possible way to read the signal from the spedo that anyone knows of?
Is there a possible way to read the signal from the spedo that anyone knows of?
just put a manual switch in for the oil cooler fan. You don't need it most of the time. In the times of need--just switch it on. I try to follow the KISS rule. Sometimes that works --sometimes it dont
not to thread jack but when looking at my prosports last night i dont think temp between my cobb and wt gauge is that off. the gauge reads every 20 degrees with five smalled lines in between. i think its closer than i first thought, not perfect but pretty close
so I am thinking I want to add a "flow" switch to the oil cooler fan thermostat. The fan runs alot and I think it might be affecting airflow at speeds....just a theory and the switches seem cheap.
Is there a possible way to read the signal from the spedo that anyone knows of?
Is there a possible way to read the signal from the spedo that anyone knows of?
Ok now that you have some miles on the engine--what are the vacuum readings now?
If I was you--for peace of mind--i would do a compression check. Hate saying that-- but its real and it wouldnt be fair if i didnt say it.
Dude-- i will x fingers for ya--truely--ya'll have done a LOT of work.
I kinda hate bringing this up.
If I was you--for peace of mind--i would do a compression check. Hate saying that-- but its real and it wouldnt be fair if i didnt say it.
Dude-- i will x fingers for ya--truely--ya'll have done a LOT of work.
I kinda hate bringing this up.
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what was I thinking
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I will do the vacuum test this afternoon when I get home....but here is my current process for starting maybe it will reveal some demons
when the engine is cold/cool I crank it for 10sec with very few blips from the engine wanting to start....pause for 10sec.....crank again for 10 sec and so far it has caught in that amount of time
its a different situation when its warm. it just wont start...nor does it make many blips like it is going to start. not sure if that means anything
just out of curiosity, why would an old engine that is loosing compression start fine and run like crap under load but a new engine wont start due to compression but run like a champ under load?
when the engine is cold/cool I crank it for 10sec with very few blips from the engine wanting to start....pause for 10sec.....crank again for 10 sec and so far it has caught in that amount of time
its a different situation when its warm. it just wont start...nor does it make many blips like it is going to start. not sure if that means anything
just out of curiosity, why would an old engine that is loosing compression start fine and run like crap under load but a new engine wont start due to compression but run like a champ under load?
check the compression.
under load there is gas pressure on the seals causing better sealing with those new housings you have. When its not under load--less gas pressure to help seal it.
Actually if you spin the rotary engine fast enough it will run without any apex seals at all. But it is a real bitch to crank
Having a harder time hot cranking it--is NOT a good sign.
under load there is gas pressure on the seals causing better sealing with those new housings you have. When its not under load--less gas pressure to help seal it.
Actually if you spin the rotary engine fast enough it will run without any apex seals at all. But it is a real bitch to crank

Having a harder time hot cranking it--is NOT a good sign.
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what was I thinking
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jk...no I lined it up to a straight edge and I made sure to clean off all the SG.


