There is your problem... Its supposed to have a small lip so the top corner can break loose. I am not sure why it needs that I think it has something to do with compression.

 

are you serious? damnit....I dont remember reading anything like that...in fact it doesnt say anyhting like that at all...I just confirmed.

is it really possible that the SG has held up for this long?

 

you used super glue?
I never heard of that?
I always thought you use vasoline......
time for an aceone bath but i dont know if the coolant seals can take acetone---maybe mix some toulene in there will help?
Headsctracher????

 

You need to super glue the 2nd piece of the apex seal if its not attached from factory other wise you wont be able to get the springs in there.

Might be worth calling up mazdatrix and seeing if lining them up perfectly would cause compression failure.

 

I am not sure how vasiline would work but I am sure you have dont it...you are talking about the apex seals and not the side/corner seals right....I used vaseline there

will do thanks man.....is he the one that suggested offsetting them?

 

Yea they are the ones who suggested that.

 

well they say that is not the issue, that corner peice would have absolutely broken off by now. He said it was more than likely over cut side seals but I was super extra careful about that. who knows, with the fatigue I was going through I could have jacked it up.

9k did you say there was someone on the forum I could "rent" a compression tester from?

 

Nah I mean even stock seals have a tremendous gap. I think there is something else going on there...

 

here is something i found:
"Beware of the superglue. I did that on an engine on a couple of ends that came unglued during a engine rebuild. A year later I took that engine apart(collapsed oring seal groove, water)and guess what. Suckers were still glued together(explained some compression figures). I wrote a post similar to yours, here, and was advised to just not glue them together. Lay them in place once the springs have been installed. Did so on the rebuild of the turbo engine a couple months ago and had no problem with it. It is incredulous that they were still glued together, but they were. By the way, I did read in the factory manual that they advise using locktite. Its refered to in the assy section of the fsm. Its on line free somewhere. Here is my original post http://www.rx7club.com/vforums/showt...threadid=16176
Last edited by HAILERS; 11-30-01 at 01:19 PM. "

but in defense of the tech i also found a lot of people that did use SG when they built rx7 engines without a problem. They did mention that you had to position them so when the plate was torqued down you could actually hear the glue breaking up.

Interesting.

 

Very interesting...

The question is will that effect compression.

 

I would say absolutely it would effect compression.

that would be some stupid **** if I take this apart and find apex corners are still glued together. I read in teh FSM about loctite and figured teh principle is still the same...when you have a machined surfaces stuck together with adhesive it doesnt take much to make a super tight joint.

it is even worth doing a compression test when the sucess of the oil injection pretty much confirms that compression is the issue?

I am kind of thinking just yank the bitch and get it over with before I keep driving it and do more damage

 

you will need to get a new gasket kit or at least the water jackets. You could risk it but its really not worth it.

 

they arent the same as the pineapple racing HD seals so I guess I could get those.

 

And you used Gorilla Glue right? Geesh. Yeah NYGPS has a Mazda compression tester, I could ask him what he would charge for us to borrow it. Who gave you the idea to use Super Glue? Maybe with time it will let go?

 

you don't have to super glue it.

just slip it over when the long piece is done, and put like a ton of vaseline over it so it does not "move"

 

your engine not starting? there is 37 pages of stuff I can't read it right now. whats wrong anyway ?

 

Man I hope that's not the issue but if no good compression# that has to be it just open it Bro is worst to keep guessing . If I lived closer I would be in that garage taking it apart with you, and the only time I look at time is to see if liquor store is still open. Good luck bro

 

basically I built a motor with new irons, seals, springs, housing etc

assembled everyhting and have had issues starting it from the get go. when I push start or inject 2-cycle oil it fires up just fine.

when it is running the thing runs like a champ

any thoughts

 

Thanks man!!!

I think I am "good" with taking it out and actully there is small part of me that looks forward to it just because I wont be so overwhelmed with the unknown this go around and I will have the opportunity to learn more....lol

 

and just fyi it wasnt gorilla glue it was just gorrilla glue brand super glue

 

Might as well... the other o rings and **** should be fine to reuse.

 

The gel stuff? If so, that is some serious shiznit. Do you think with a good road trip the glue will dissolve?

 

it is just standard "Cyanoacrylate" but yea its amazing ****

I iwll call Rob today and see about new h2o seals then maybe one day this week SARX can help me yank this out....I will spend the week disassembling and reassembling then be ready to install in the next weekend or so

Can anyone show me what the oil channel work looks like? is it similar to the work I did smoothing the coolant channels out?

 

I have always used a dab of super glue (cyanoacrylic adhesive) to glue the small triangular apex seal piece to the main body of it. It needs to be trimmed off so it doesn't rub in the seal groove. It's really only there long enough to get the housing on without dislodging the small piece. Most of the time the glue will break while putting the engine together but if it doesn't it's broken the first time the engine is cranked over and the glue burned off almost immediately after it fires.

Some people say not to use Vasoline to hold water and oil rings in but I always did and had no problems with it. Others recommend using Hylomar in the water seal grooves before installing the seals. I tried this once and just made a huge mess so I'm not a fan of it.

Remember that springs are directional as are the apex seals. They are all supposed to go in facing a certain direction. The side seal springs have the ends facing up and the coolant seals should be taller than wider when sitting in the groove. All of your seals should be able to move freely in their grooves and hopefully you measured all of this with feeler gauges during assembly.

 

Baby oil works fine as well to hold the seals in place during assembly. It also smells good!
seriously, +1 for a little bit of vaseline and superglue.