looks like you have Prosport gauges which i believe are already preset to 200F. you might want to keep it there so it serves as a warning and not when you are messing stuff up.

 

Thanks for that Charles, yea i was aware what the radiator does.

Was just wondering when temperature gets critical,

At the moment N/A My temp whilst spirited driving goes from 80c to 90c, it will hover in between this value, whilst driving though, water temp goes down to 80ish and oil at 86-87 u guess this is due to my single oil cooler

 

Just did a compression test

73,000miles , 113,000 kms

Crank Speed 245
Front 117, 119, 114
Rear 108, 117, 111

 

And then I repeated this in an e-mail to you, too.

Lotsa bad info out there lately and some of it is coming from people who are supposed to know better, so I need to be sure my customers do not get false hopes nor the wrong ideas.

Have you any altitude information and did you measure the intake idle vacuum, too?

If you have the factory thermostat and fan settings, 208 is rather normal.

 

Dont have that info unfortunately Charles.

Vacuum at idle is ranging between 13-16 psi according to the prosport gauge

Also Charles do you know how long it will take for the radiator to arrive in Australia?

Is it shipped to my address or the airport?

Regards
Jason

 

Just purchased myself a
Turbosmart Kompact Duo Port BOV

It will be equipped with a centrifugal spring

 

I demand videos!!! and pictures!!!! please. lol

 

haha, sorry no can do, only thing installed atm, is my 5 gauge setup using FEED & Knightsport gauge pod.

Charles said radiator should ship out wednesday/thursday this week.

So most likely provided nothing goes wrong, i'll drop my car off early next week, for the piping to be all heat coated in black (stealth)

Then i'll need to change the spring in the duo port BOV with a centrifugal supercharger spring.
The Bov is quiet interesting, as with this supercharger it operates very similar to a turbocharger, so you have the air rerouted back into the intercooler through a by-pass valve.
Making the same whoosh sound (although much much softer)

However with this BOV at low boost it will recirculate the air, at higher boost (red line e.g) it will atmosphere inject it. If the idle is unstable, it comes with a plate to make it into a full bypass.

Thanks to rotary envy, it turns out i may be looking at almost 14psi of boost at 8.5-9k rpm, with around 9psi at around 7.5( AT redline), we'll see how this works, to determine rev limiter after the install.

Also on top of this, my mechanic has the REVs (official Knightsport rep) RX8 in there at the moment, running 4port 5 spd jdm with the knightsport kit in, around 200kw at rear wheels, this is achieved with minor port on the engine.

Had a chat with Rohan from extreme rotaries, said he is looking at POSSIBLY at some form of forced induction, so he may have a pop in during my install the take facts and help with the install.

I am still contemplating whether to install the mazmart oil pressure mod or not, with 100+psi of oil pressure, i dont know if its a good thing or not.

Changing from 5w-40 to 10w-50 semi synthetic oil, walbro fuel pump + 2nd oil cooler will be definitely going in with the radiator, will do Ash's Oil Cooler Duct Mod (depending on results may need to get a oil cooler fan set up for the summer)

All in all that is the current update!

 

You lost me there....

lol

Just kidding. Nice build man I'm excited to see the end product. Good on ya!

 

Jason, the best way to discuss airflow in a manner that allows us to evaluate one version of F/I versus another is the MAF sensor readings you are getting across the entire RPM range. Mass airflow is what matters, not "boost pressure".

 

Hey Charles,

that will be tested when the kit goes on,

In reference to boost pressure, what i meant is i calculated the pulley size wrong, from what i thought was going to be 9psi turned out to be 14psi according to rotary envy.

Any updates on the radiator?

Regards
Jason

 

I have attached a copy of the flow map

 

Ok according to USPS radiator just cleared the custom! Should arrive tomorrow, Car will be going in 2 days!

 

After a cursory glance at your flow chart it seems your maximum potential airflow is around 310 gms./sec., (+/-) which is quite common for the more popular F/I kits for the RX-8. Not an unmanageable amount of airflow, at all, as long as intake temps are controlled.

Is that driven RPM supposed to be 13,000 or 130,000?

 

310 GMS/Sec is what I am getting with my procharger c2 using the 8 psi pulley and only going to 7.5-8K RPM at 5-6 PSI while running rich and pulling in hot under hood air. The 12PSI tunned with a better flowing filter and cold air should be a fair amount higher.

 

13,000 rpm i believe Charles.

On top of that the radiator arrived today, great piece of work, some very minor bends on some of the fins outta the box, but guess that is unavoidable.

car will go in tomorrow

At the moment i am running Penrite 5w40 (approved by Mazda Australia)

However i am thinking of switching to the Penrite 10w50.

Problem though is, its really cold here at the moment in the morning around 4-5degree celcius

Should i stay with 5w40 for winter and then move to 10w50 for summer?

 

130,000 as it is impeller speed. the SC has a 9.49 step-up on the input shaft.

 

Those numbers end up quite close to the overdrive ratio used in the Pettit S/C kit when they used a 1.45-1.47 pulley set. Gonna be a pretty interesting comparison, especially given Highway's info/experience as well.

 

Ok car dropped off today
Final List of Mods going in:
Knightsport Supercharger Kit
BHR Radiator
BHR Walbro Fuel Pump
Mazmart Oil Pressure Mod
5ply Silicon Radiator Hoses
Greddy Oil Pan
Carboninmotion 2nd Oil Cooler
Knightsport & Feed Gauge Pod
Prosport Gauges : Wideband O2, Boost, Oil Pressure + Temp, Water Temp
Turbosmart: Kompact Dual Port BOV, Converted into full bypass valve using included Backing Plate, Changed Spring with soft springs.
DRIFT Oil Catch Can
ECU Choice, Flash MAF Tune using Protuner, If this fails we are going Adaptronics ECU Map Tune

Minor Details:
Flush/Clean of Supercharger Kit
New Oil Filter + Traction Oil for Supercharger Unit
Decarb of Engine
Coolant Flush
Oil Flush (still going to use Penrite Semi-Sythentic 5w-40)
Lines rearranged
Clean up of Promaz Ignition Kit Harness

Mods Coming OUT:
Agency Power Underdriven Pulley (too small)
Racing Beat Intake+Duct (obvious reasons)

Thats all for now, estimated turn around 1.5 weeks

 

good luck .


I would get them to do only the essential stuff to get the SC running and the rest once it is running properly .

Just a thought ......

 

or do each system individually then test for couple days in normal and spirited driving conditions for example:
1. Oil system (greddy oil pan, oil pressure mod, and second cooler)
2. coolant system BHR radiator, hoses etc
3. fuel pump
4. supercharger kit
5. misc parts
6. tune

just an example of order, but i defiantly would not install all those parts at once, without getting a couple days driving in between. Just my .02

 

I disagree. most of the things are from separate systems and are known to work.
you can tell a cooling system problem from a supercharger issue.
the oil system is separate from the SC and adding oil pan and cooler aren't going to effect it.

the only thing I would reconsider installing straight away is the fuel pump as it may affect the tune?

are you replacing injectors?

 

im fully with rotaryenvy.

The only 2 i see that may require abit of troubleshooting to know the problem would be the SC Kit and Fuel Pump, which is easily solved by running a temp fuel pressure gauge during tune.

Not going to use replace injectors

and Guis you do realize the time and effort and cost to install separately right?

 

track friend of mine has this type of kit on a Honda S2000. Sweet set up and looks nice.
He did add a water oil cooler to get his oil temps up faster. I dont know if we need that or not.
Following with interest.
OD

 

I am enjoying this thread.....good luck and you will not be satisfied with 230 hp.