Knightsports Supercharger Kit
11-06-2013, 06:58 PM
#377
we see 25 kw worth of difference here.....
Dyno run is just a baseline, tbh i think a properly scaled MAF log (g/s) provides far better input then the different dynos. But its up to the owners not to scale too much
Dyno run is just a baseline, tbh i think a properly scaled MAF log (g/s) provides far better input then the different dynos. But its up to the owners not to scale too much
11-06-2013, 07:25 PM
#378
So thinking about cooling again.
Main issue with the AT is the lack of choice of radiators, as the AT one has the ATF cooler built into it.
I did originally purchase the BHR one and thought i was done, but alas that was not meant to be.
So im thinking of getting the Mazmart MT radiator and mounting a seperate ATF cooler somewhere else.
Problem is where...... and what......
My front grill is already that busy, with a secondary radiator for the W2A IC, a oil cooler for rotrex charger, condenser and radiator. I just cant see fitting it anywhere in there.... However i did see Highspeed with his ATF cooler mounted on his condenser, wouldnt that create even more temps onto radiator?
I do have a rx8performance undertray (no coolers) lying around the house, maybe i use that tray? and mount the ATF on the bottom? But without a fan in place i cant see it getting sufficient airflow, and with a fan a pull setup is just going to push more hot air onto the radiator, whilst a push setup might pull cool air away from the radiator?
Decisions Decisions, anyone got any input here?
Also the easier one, what ATF cooler would i need?
Main issue with the AT is the lack of choice of radiators, as the AT one has the ATF cooler built into it.
I did originally purchase the BHR one and thought i was done, but alas that was not meant to be.
So im thinking of getting the Mazmart MT radiator and mounting a seperate ATF cooler somewhere else.
Problem is where...... and what......
My front grill is already that busy, with a secondary radiator for the W2A IC, a oil cooler for rotrex charger, condenser and radiator. I just cant see fitting it anywhere in there.... However i did see Highspeed with his ATF cooler mounted on his condenser, wouldnt that create even more temps onto radiator?
I do have a rx8performance undertray (no coolers) lying around the house, maybe i use that tray? and mount the ATF on the bottom? But without a fan in place i cant see it getting sufficient airflow, and with a fan a pull setup is just going to push more hot air onto the radiator, whilst a push setup might pull cool air away from the radiator?
Decisions Decisions, anyone got any input here?
Also the easier one, what ATF cooler would i need?
11-07-2013, 07:27 AM
#381
Congradulations Tofo Box. My dyno was the best recorded for a long time......Now you hold that honor.
Kane just left Las Vegas and did a top job tuning mine but we did not have time to put it on a dyno. Feels stronger but without the dyno it is just my butt feeling.
Kane just left Las Vegas and did a top job tuning mine but we did not have time to put it on a dyno. Feels stronger but without the dyno it is just my butt feeling.
11-07-2013, 04:31 PM
#382
Hey Phil! Long time no see, hope things are well! Glad to hear about your car, hopefully one of us can break that 300hp barrier soon.
Gotta ask but, what radiator are you using? are u using a seperate ATF cooler?
Gotta ask but, what radiator are you using? are u using a seperate ATF cooler?
11-11-2013, 11:07 PM
#384
Thanks for all the info phil!
Anyways onto next topic, looking into a water injection system pre supercharger to help with IAT before the charger.
Brettus forwarded me this awesome link Where Do I Position My Water Injection Nozzles
It seems that by cooling precharger it should have a dramatic effect on compressed on,
Also quote " Impeller erosion is highly unlikely with centrifugal supercharger as they spin at a considerably slower speed then turbochargers. Impeller erosion is of little concern with centrifugal superchargers. "
Prob going to use the washer bottle as the tank, may even use window washer solution as the mixture, gonna see how it goes.
Did abit more shopping for the car too recently
Got myself the Autoexe steering wheel/gear ****, should complement the black and red stitching on the Bride ERGO II seat i have, Recored the BHR radiator to go back in, Autoshineproject FEED style front bumper and a genuine RE-Am Hood.
Still looking into a AUX ATF cooler, Davis Craig is a very popular brand of ATF Oil cooler manufacturer located not too far from where i live.
The suggested ATF cooler that can operate as a standalone with sufficient cooling ability to delete the radiator ATF cooler has been pointed out as this following one
HYDRA-COOL UNIVERSAL 8 cyl TRANMISSION COOLER - PART No: 678
Will see how the recored BHR radiator works out, if it is still overheating i may need to look at the Ron Davis race radiator with a seperate ATF cooler. Just cant find the room for a aux radiator.
Anyways onto next topic, looking into a water injection system pre supercharger to help with IAT before the charger.
Brettus forwarded me this awesome link Where Do I Position My Water Injection Nozzles
It seems that by cooling precharger it should have a dramatic effect on compressed on,
Also quote " Impeller erosion is highly unlikely with centrifugal supercharger as they spin at a considerably slower speed then turbochargers. Impeller erosion is of little concern with centrifugal superchargers. "
Prob going to use the washer bottle as the tank, may even use window washer solution as the mixture, gonna see how it goes.
Did abit more shopping for the car too recently
Got myself the Autoexe steering wheel/gear ****, should complement the black and red stitching on the Bride ERGO II seat i have, Recored the BHR radiator to go back in, Autoshineproject FEED style front bumper and a genuine RE-Am Hood.
Still looking into a AUX ATF cooler, Davis Craig is a very popular brand of ATF Oil cooler manufacturer located not too far from where i live.
The suggested ATF cooler that can operate as a standalone with sufficient cooling ability to delete the radiator ATF cooler has been pointed out as this following one
HYDRA-COOL UNIVERSAL 8 cyl TRANMISSION COOLER - PART No: 678
Will see how the recored BHR radiator works out, if it is still overheating i may need to look at the Ron Davis race radiator with a seperate ATF cooler. Just cant find the room for a aux radiator.
11-13-2013, 08:55 AM
#385
Original Turbo 'd Auto !!
the ATF cooler was mounted where the right side oil cooler would be, but it was moved behind the IC. Was thinking of mounting a 2nd coolant radiator in the oil cooler spot, just haven't made time for it yet.
11-18-2013, 10:41 PM
#387
Getting the AEM water/meth fail safe system which includes a gauge.
Need to replace a gauge to make room for it, (already have 5 cant take anymore haha)
Which one of the following would you say to remove
Water Temp
Oil Temp
Oil Pressure
My water temp sensor is located on the return hose from the radiator (the one that is right under the ECU box) and it reads about 10c degrees lower then the obd reading, but the oil temp sensor follows the heater hose water temp sensor very closely.
On the other hand my oil pressure gauge doesnt even work.... haha
So yea interested to hear you guy's opinion
p.s i do have a scangauge connected as well that shows OBD water temp reading
Need to replace a gauge to make room for it, (already have 5 cant take anymore haha)
Which one of the following would you say to remove
Water Temp
Oil Temp
Oil Pressure
My water temp sensor is located on the return hose from the radiator (the one that is right under the ECU box) and it reads about 10c degrees lower then the obd reading, but the oil temp sensor follows the heater hose water temp sensor very closely.
On the other hand my oil pressure gauge doesnt even work.... haha
So yea interested to hear you guy's opinion
p.s i do have a scangauge connected as well that shows OBD water temp reading
Last edited by tofu_box; 11-18-2013 at 11:22 PM.
11-19-2013, 05:11 AM
#389
thats what i am thinking too, but since i already have a OBD water temp there, wondering the necessity of doubling up.... shot a email to racing beat to see their opinion since i have their gauge pod, hopefully can hear back.
Whilst there is no other sensor for oil pressure other then "good to go/ new engine time" But i guess by the time i register it from the other external sensor it will be too late anyways?
Whilst there is no other sensor for oil pressure other then "good to go/ new engine time" But i guess by the time i register it from the other external sensor it will be too late anyways?
11-19-2013, 06:13 AM
#390
On other news got the autoexe steering wheel and the AT shifter ****.
Turned out to match the Bride ERGO II seats very well, love the red stitching and feels sooooo nice to drive, with the flat section at the bottom.
Turned out to match the Bride ERGO II seats very well, love the red stitching and feels sooooo nice to drive, with the flat section at the bottom.
11-21-2013, 11:58 PM
#393
Passed 40,000 kms on new motor, always had Amsoil 2 stroke fed through SOHN, always had supercharger.
No decarb.
Thought i give it a compression tests after the few pings/det i gotten during tuning
Pretty Happy with the results
@250rpm
Rotor 1: 123.35, 124.45, 126.83
Rotor 2: 126.34, 121.4, 130.07
No decarb.
Thought i give it a compression tests after the few pings/det i gotten during tuning
Pretty Happy with the results
@250rpm
Rotor 1: 123.35, 124.45, 126.83
Rotor 2: 126.34, 121.4, 130.07
11-25-2013, 05:17 AM
#397
yea, thats what i was thinking too.
But even then racing beat suggested removing oil pressure since they consider it not very important.
The factory OBD is reported by them also to have the most accurate measurement.
I wonder if it might be a better idea to remove both oil pressure and water temp,
Run, AEM W/M Failsafe Gauge, Oil Temp and maybe fuel pressure....
I do have a fuel pressure gauge already inside the engine bay, which i used during engine dyno and trouble shooting. Wondering if it will be ideal to change that mechanical one to a electrical one to inside the car.
But even then racing beat suggested removing oil pressure since they consider it not very important.
The factory OBD is reported by them also to have the most accurate measurement.
I wonder if it might be a better idea to remove both oil pressure and water temp,
Run, AEM W/M Failsafe Gauge, Oil Temp and maybe fuel pressure....
I do have a fuel pressure gauge already inside the engine bay, which i used during engine dyno and trouble shooting. Wondering if it will be ideal to change that mechanical one to a electrical one to inside the car.
11-25-2013, 11:41 AM
#398
I'll snap his neck.
The main reason I have oil pressure is I occasionally use my car for track days, and it was recommended to me to have an oil pressure gauge for that. If you aren't going to do track days, then I probably wouldn't worry about it either.
That said, I've never had a problem with oil pressure on track (knock on wood
But I'm not the world's best driver, and I run street tires. I could see it being more of a potential problem if you were running R-compounds.
That said, I've never had a problem with oil pressure on track (knock on wood
But I'm not the world's best driver, and I run street tires. I could see it being more of a potential problem if you were running R-compounds.
11-25-2013, 11:52 AM
#399
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
The main reason I have oil pressure is I occasionally use my car for track days, and it was recommended to me to have an oil pressure gauge for that. If you aren't going to do track days, then I probably wouldn't worry about it either.
That said, I've never had a problem with oil pressure on track (knock on wood But I'm not the world's best driver, and I run street tires. I could see it being more of a potential problem if you were running R-compounds.
That said, I've never had a problem with oil pressure on track (knock on wood
But I'm not the world's best driver, and I run street tires. I could see it being more of a potential problem if you were running R-compounds.
11-25-2013, 11:56 AM
#400
For oil : We have a sender unit and gauge of sorts already to cover off for a total calamity .
I have often wondered what happens if we lose oil pressure - it seems like it would be a good idea for the ECU to put the engine into limp mode . Anyone ever seen what actually happens with the stock setup when pressure is lost ?