I think you should post a screenshot and not expect anyone to open your zip file ..............

 

it doesnt even work

 

i opened it.
One thing i noticed is your idle speed is too low for this kit. The supercharger kit requires the idle to be set at 1K to 1.2K. Try that before anything else.
Are you using the jet air system? We dont need it since we idle faster but some keep it. If you still have it do not forget to add a one way valve to its hose.
check the by pass valve for leakage also.
Check the vacuum canister that was removed from the uim and make sure the one way valve on it is working correctly.
15 of vacuum is a little low--what where you getting before the install?
Get back with us after those things are done.
Is Steve remote tuning?

 

Use either throttle body cleaner or brake clean to look for vac leaks. Listen for idle changes while checking each leak point. Check the gasket down around the back runner. Ive seen that leak on a few cars.

 

Yea I followed the instruction to the tee, It didn't say anything about adding a one way check valve to the Jet air system >.>. So recommend just capping that line? I've litterally traced all the lines with propane, didn't see anything change, the back runner for the manifold I did see the STFT change abit, but couldn't get it to replicate. I ordered new gaskets for it and its as tight as I can get it.

 

I repeat, use the spray, you can direct it better then propane. That back runner may need some rtv just to make sure, if you over tq it you can warp the aluminum flange or it has been done in the past by someone else.

 

Moon, I was told u installed this supercharger before it was sold to me. Any recollection if u guys had the same issues? If it is indeed a leak on the rear runner u recommend using rtv with the paper gasket or just straight up rtv?

 

DON'T CHANGE THE IDLE!!!!!!

The tuning process is....... a process.

Follow the steps and you should be good. Definitely find the leak or be SURE there isn't one before we start to tune. But the idle needs to be stock for now. We will raise it shortly.

 

I didnt instal the upper intake so i didnt inspect that. It was already on when i got there. If you suspect a leak rtv is the easiest fix.

 

welcome Kane!
ok--- dont increase the idle. If your tuner says dont do it --then dont.
I will be interested in seeing the result.

 

Eventually we will. But to scale the MAF and Inj 1 we need factory idle.


Howdy Denny!

 

yep freakin leak at the rear runner, gonna RTV that ****.

 

cool you found the leak, awesome get that thing fixed. hopefully that will do the trick!

 

oh---ok--going to rescale the maf. That makes perfect sense. Some do that with this kit--some dont. Is the owner going with the higher boost pulley?
Kane see if you can pick up supercharger pulses with the maf readings? I havent seen any but I am sure not the expert.
Make sure you have a GOOD bpv--the metal one from pettit is good. make sure it has its own dedicated vacuum source. Do not share that vacuum with a gauge etc.
Inside the sc intake where the bpv sources its vacuum needs a little work--but that can come later.
Keep it touch!

 

Got it sealed, LTFT changed good sign. Though, Air flow g/s is abit lower than before, kane said 5.55g/s at idle is what you want.. I'm looking at my new idle and its lower. I'm sure that there is no more leaks. sprayed brake clean every and propane too. Heres my new idle datalog tell me what you guys think. Also Adding a one way check valve to the jet air and the oil metering valve, where can I get that valve? and where should I put it? before the Tee or after? I'm abit confused at that part.

 

What have you done for tuning...you def will have more luck if you get that dialed in a bit more

The actual numbers don't mean too much...look for the results Would be nice to get the LTFT down to as close to zero as you can......I would think if it isn't a MAF issue that you still have a leak somewhere...like Kane said around 5ish is more normal for the idle flow

Does idle fairly well though...less than 100rpm top to bottom

 

what type intake are you using--what maf pipe? Do you have a screen?
The numbers look good to me? The a/f is a tad lean--? But probably ok. I idle at 14.1--14.2afr
but you are not tuned yet. Kane will get it right.
If you have a vacuum of 15 then that may be part of why you are not pulling a little more g/secs?

On the jet air--if you plan on having a low idle ( less than 1K) then you need the jet air--but a one way valve will be needed --anywhere in the line between the jet air and its first connection to a vacuum source. If you are going to be idling at 1K and above you dont need the jet air--just cap it off.
I took mine completely out of the intake etc. Engine needs to be out to do that though.

The oil metering vacuum source is before the supercharger and the oil nozzles themselves have a one way valve build into them. So a one way valve on that line is not needed--but I added one anyway. You can get one at any autoparts store.

 

So I did some datalogging this morning, the previous log was a night. I got the engine to be abit warmer, I did notice with this new idle, that I am getting 16-17" of vacuum consitantly. I did tighten a few bolts and added a worm clamp to the compressor vent hose (next to the oil fill on the compressor), I sprayed around with brake clean, nothing really changed, so I'm assuming no more leaks.

One thing to note, I remember I did have issues with my MAF (about a year ago) reading a ridiculous (230 g/s at 6000 rpm i think) reading spat out a code, cleaned the MAF and cleared the code. I haven't seen it ever since. Maybe my MAF is on its way out, or just seems out of calibration. I'm using no screen, and I'm using the intake pipe from the kit, pretty much bone stock stage II kit.

Mods that may have affected my airflow:
ported throttle body?
RB headers?
RB midpipe?
RB exhaust?
PCV system upgrade with the new models?

can't really think of anything else, lol but you can look down my list of mods. I'm going to find one way check valve today see if it changes anything.

Heres my new datalog for this morning at idle, abit warmer.

 

Just went to autozone, They didn't have that many one way check valves. But they did have a pletora of PCVs. Would I beable to use a PCV instead? I think the brake booster one way check valve is about the same size, I maybe able to order one from mazda if thats the case.

 

New kane idle looking really good.

 

i am curious how the new oil vent system is plumbed?
The hose next to the oil fill spot does not need vacuum. All it is, is a vent for the case that houses the supercharger drive gears. Pressure can build in there if you drive the blower at high rpm for a while so a vent was added. if you have vacuum attached to it--you have a vacuum leak. No much of one--but i bet there will be a small one.
you can use the oem one way valves that used to attached to the different things that were removed. If i remember right they are green and white. Be sure to install them in the correct way.
I think youre maf is ok--from the logs you have posted. If you have a lot of miles on your o2 sensor--you may want to replace that. its good insurance and may make it a little easier to tune.
If you have the Pettit intake etc--how the heck are you keeping the iat so low?

 

Do not put the SC oil sump under boost or vac, the front seal will pop out and you run the risk of sucking the oil into the engine. Like Denny said vent it. I found it best to run a hose that slightly rises from the fitting. As for the check valve the same one for the brake booster is perfect.

 

ah great info--i didnt know it could actually upset the seal.
He may need to check that evap sensor too--could be stuck open? Any codes? Just fishing.....

By the way Moon I have found a local mad welder--he does beautiful aluminum welding.

 

Sorry let me clarify that, Its actually just a vent hose, probably getting small amounts of vacuum, but not full vacuum. It plugs in before the throttle body, par the pettit racing instruction manual. I pretty much followed the manual to the tee.

I have about 70k miles on my car, I do have a wide band sensor, just need to go to the welding shop and get the bung welded. when do they typically go bad? to me it seems to be working just fine when I was testing for leaks.

Hmm so just vent it out? I know that line will create pressure under boost, I've had my catch can fill up with oil before using that vent line when I was NA. my oil pressure kit out puts more oil pressure, I should probably think about putting back a catch can.

no codes so far, for the the most part its just been idling in my drive way.

 

You can drive it around without the belt on, it should run fine, like stock plus that gives you an idea of where you stand. You shouldn't have oil spewing out of the blower, if you do you probably filled it to much. It should only take 4 ozs i think or was it 8, just put 4 in and check the dipstick.