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Old 05-20-2012, 08:29 AM
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Got the car fine tuned on Friday at Pro's (Japtrix) on a mustang dyno with Steve Kan over the phone/computer. We were able to achieve 310 whp which I believe is about 8% more if using a DynoJet dyno (335 whp).

Noticed that we stop at 8200 rpm but the graph shows no downward curve. So we think we could get more but I have no plans to run the car over 8200 rpm. No methanol spraying and running on sunoco 98 octane with four (4) injector dynamics 1000cc injectors on the top fuel rail and 10 lbs of boost


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Old 05-20-2012, 11:21 AM
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Giving hell to a corvette at Homestead

The corvette obviously got more power and torque as seen on the straightaways but no match to the RX8's handling and suspension.


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Old 05-20-2012, 08:00 PM
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VERY nice--
i do hate long straights in which you have to use 3-4-5 and 6th gears.
a/f's at 14 for a little? Wow.
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Old 05-20-2012, 08:08 PM
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What speed do you get to on the straight. Most tracks I go to do not have straights long enough to build a lot of speed.
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Old 05-20-2012, 08:42 PM
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If anyone ever wants to sell their kit PM me!!!

Hi btw!
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Old 05-20-2012, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by olddragger View Post
VERY nice--
i do hate long straights in which you have to use 3-4-5 and 6th gears.
a/f's at 14 for a little? Wow.
I love them. 11.9~12.4 on 6th gear doing 125~130 mph towards the end past the start/finish line.

Get the 1000cc injectors, put back the larger pulley and have Steve send you the same maps I got for 93 octane and 98 octane. You can switch back and forth with the cobb. We have pretty much the same setup.
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Old 05-20-2012, 09:27 PM
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I noticed that there are gaps at the rear of the plastic radiator top cover. So I searched and found an aftermarket aluminum for over $150 and decided the F with that. I can make my own way shipper than that cuz I don't need eye candy for racing. When to HD got me some aluminum sheets and dremeled a two part piece with glued foam back and held in place with plastic clips. Use aluminum tape just to make sure all gaps were covered and there is a piece of black insulation foam by the hood latch to completely cover the middle gap you see in the picture.

Track ambient temps in the lower 90s with high humidity. ECT 215 OET 225 and never slowed down to cool off. Car temps dropped rapidly once I got to the padock to normal temps. I also noticed that my OET are 10 degrees lower than ECT while cruising on the highway at 75 mph.

I used RP 10w-30 with a bottle of ZDDPPlus ZDDP Engine Oil Additive Zinc & Phosphorus. Next track event I'm going to try Amalie synthetic blend Pro High Performance SM/CF 10W-30 with the ZDDPPlus.
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Old 05-20-2012, 10:16 PM
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But, When ya gonna start going fast juan? ") hehe
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Old 05-21-2012, 08:37 AM
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nice dude--
ect temps checked at the ob2 site--correct?
Watch it as the ambient temps get hotter. 95F ambient is a break point for us. Things change after that. The clip I posted at RR my ect never over 205F --it was also in the low 90's. Very similar to yours.
My oil temps are always higher than coolant. 10-15 degreesF. I run Redline 5w/30 in mine.
The RP always lost its viscosity in just a couple thousand miles with I used it. So I went with redline.
How are your intake charge temps doing? I do run a little richer a/f's. What lead ignition timing did yall stop at? I am retarded
Did he adjust the coil dwell too? I also am running the msd 8247's and I have just asked him to increase mine a tad. We need 3 ms and we arent getting it up top.

You only got to 130mph? you on oem size tires?
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Old 05-21-2012, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by olddragger View Post
nice dude--
ect temps checked at the ob2 site--correct?

Nope, at the lower radiator hose (return).

My oil temps are always higher than coolant. 10-15 degreesF.

Mine too while racing/boosting, about 10 degrees hotter than ECT measured at the oil filter.

The RP always lost its viscosity in just a couple thousand miles with I used it. So I went with redline.

I change my oil and filter after each track event and don't forget that my car is NOT a DD.

How are your intake charge temps doing?

@ 115 while tracking/boosting with 25/75 meth/water 100/60 pre/post blower. Not really cooling the charge but keeping it from getting hotter.


I do run a little richer a/f's. What lead ignition timing did yall stop at?
Did he adjust the coil dwell too? I also am running the msd 8247's and I have just asked him to increase mine a tad. We need 3 ms and we arent getting it up top.

I'll get back to you on that one later.


You only got to 130mph? you on oem size tires?
Hankook Ventus R-S3 245/40ZR18 just about the same diameter than oem.
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Old 05-21-2012, 09:30 PM
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215F at the LOWER radiator hose? Uhhhh dude--isnt that about 235F coming out of the engine?
if that is right then that aint good!
115 intercooler temps is very good!
Gota on the oil--forgot you arent dd.
I thought you may have a final gear thats a little high--if you drop your tire diameter you really get more grunt.
Just a little more and you will be passing that Vette!
Really am enjoying your vids man. Great work--
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Old 05-22-2012, 04:06 AM
  #9712  
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Originally Posted by olddragger View Post
215F at the LOWER radiator hose? Uhhhh dude--isnt that about 235F coming out of the engine?
Nope, +/- 5 degrees lower than car ECT sensor reading.
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Old 05-22-2012, 04:37 AM
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Originally Posted by marsredr100 View Post
Got the car fine tuned on Friday at Pro's (Japtrix) on a mustang dyno with Steve Kan over the phone/computer. We were able to achieve 310 whp
good job !
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Old 05-22-2012, 08:41 AM
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Huh--only 5 degrees of delta? Maybe your temp gauge need recalibrating or something is going on? delta should be at least 20F.
I am not trying to be a ***** or anything --I am just heat sensitive"). Friend of mind wouldnt listen and he DID run 235F ( short bursts to 240) and after a few track events--coolant seal let go. He was not FI. I just dont want that to happen to you.
So ect at obII sensor reading 220F--right? Borderline--but ok. If this is going to be a track only car--i would run evans coolant. Seriously.

Juan--truely I have found out some things about the cooling system after years of trying this and that.
I will try to sum it up here.
Summary---
1- heater system takes to much coolant away from the radiator. This non cooled flow mixes with the cooled flow from the radiator at the thermostat housing before it reenters the system. So overall temps are higher. A secondary radiator helps with this.
2- you must have a restrictor in the heater coolant system, this can be just a regular restrictor plug inserted inside the heater hose, or a fluid thermostat that has small internal lines. The reason for this is the water pump likes a little head pressure--it pumps more effectively. The ffluid thermostat ( usually opens at 180F) also stabilizes the coolant temps returning from the secondary radiator. This is a very good thing. No more overcooling. You will also see no more temp fultuations.
3- you have to drill a very small hole in the thermostat. Just take my word for this.
4- 70/30 water to antifreeze blend and a higher pressure radiator cap.
5- if you can find a bigger bottom radiator hose--do so. The water pump causes a LOT of suction on that hose and it can be a restiction to the water pump supply. You may have to piece one together.
6- I truely would run evans coolant if I had a track only car and the rules would let me.
7- turn both fans on at once and have them so they will even come on while the car is at high speed. The radiator is at too much of a angle for high speed air flow to matter much. besides it is not about the speed of the air hitting the radiator, its about the pressure difference between the radiator front/back
8- Track only car should NOT have airconditioning--take it off. Or at the vERY least move the a/c condensor as far away from the radiator as you can--i moved mine about an inch. I had to fab some new top mounts out of some Home Depo aluminum. This allows the fans to pull air through much more easily.
Of course the mazmart water pump and thermostat--DONT use any other after market thermostat. The Mazmart one totally seals the by pass system when needed--some other aftermarts ones I seriously doubt.
I hope this can be of a little help. I have many more details and findings if you want the data etc.
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Old 05-27-2012, 11:11 PM
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Juan must be secretly one of dem puerto ricans come to the states with an 8 bazillion hp rotary engines to make fun of us crackers.

You go ace.

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Old 05-28-2012, 08:51 AM
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no doubt.

yall look on the ecu tuning thread--made some discoveries concerning the ignition wiring harness. If we need better spark--we need better wiring--the oem ignition harness leaves a lot to be desired.
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Old 05-28-2012, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by olddragger View Post
Huh--only 5 degrees of delta? Maybe your temp gauge need recalibrating or something is going on? delta should be at least 20F.
I am not trying to be a ***** or anything --I am just heat sensitive"). Friend of mind wouldnt listen and he DID run 235F ( short bursts to 240) and after a few track events--coolant seal let go. He was not FI. I just dont want that to happen to you.
So ect at obII sensor reading 220F--right? Borderline--but ok. If this is going to be a track only car--i would run evans coolant. Seriously.

Juan--truely I have found out some things about the cooling system after years of trying this and that.
I will try to sum it up here.
Summary---
1- heater system takes to much coolant away from the radiator. This non cooled flow mixes with the cooled flow from the radiator at the thermostat housing before it reenters the system. So overall temps are higher. A secondary radiator helps with this.
2- you must have a restrictor in the heater coolant system, this can be just a regular restrictor plug inserted inside the heater hose, or a fluid thermostat that has small internal lines. The reason for this is the water pump likes a little head pressure--it pumps more effectively. The ffluid thermostat ( usually opens at 180F) also stabilizes the coolant temps returning from the secondary radiator. This is a very good thing. No more overcooling. You will also see no more temp fultuations.
3- you have to drill a very small hole in the thermostat. Just take my word for this.
4- 70/30 water to antifreeze blend and a higher pressure radiator cap.
5- if you can find a bigger bottom radiator hose--do so. The water pump causes a LOT of suction on that hose and it can be a restiction to the water pump supply. You may have to piece one together.
6- I truely would run evans coolant if I had a track only car and the rules would let me.
7- turn both fans on at once and have them so they will even come on while the car is at high speed. The radiator is at too much of a angle for high speed air flow to matter much. besides it is not about the speed of the air hitting the radiator, its about the pressure difference between the radiator front/back
8- Track only car should NOT have airconditioning--take it off. Or at the vERY least move the a/c condensor as far away from the radiator as you can--i moved mine about an inch. I had to fab some new top mounts out of some Home Depo aluminum. This allows the fans to pull air through much more easily.
Of course the mazmart water pump and thermostat--DONT use any other after market thermostat. The Mazmart one totally seals the by pass system when needed--some other aftermarts ones I seriously doubt.
I hope this can be of a little help. I have many more details and findings if you want the data etc.
Thanks for the tips Denny. Most of the above recommendations were already in place.

- I do have a secondary radiator summit 7x21 and a little rail tertiary radiator.
- Mazmart water pump/thermostat combo.
- 70/30 coolant with water wetter.
- Every nook and cranny sealed (to include the radiator drain plug hole on the plastic shroud and a U shape bar across the back on the plastic under tray to keep it from flexing at high speed) plus a bigger bumper RB air flow entrance.
- Vented hood
-10" electric cooling fan behind the front BHR prototype heat exchanger that I keep running for about 10 minutes after each run along with the heat exchanger fluid pump to dissipate the heat.
- My OEM (FANS) turn are set to come on at 180 full blast.

The only thing I'm going to do is drilling a small hole on the thermostat to keep the flow going at start up and remove the A/C belt before next NASA event (Jun 24) at Sebring to free up some hp.

Not taking the A/C condenser off PERIOD!

Have talked to ROTARY Road Racing veterans (NOT drag racers/street racers) and I keep getting the same answer regarding my ECT/EOT. "Not to worry...it is fine" ECT below 220 and EOT below 240 is fine.

You have to understand that here in central/south Floriduh although the temperatures are not as high as other parts of the USA (90~100) it is the high humidity (100%) that takes everything to the insanely hot level and hard to control.
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Old 05-28-2012, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by olddragger View Post
no doubt.

yall look on the ecu tuning thread--made some discoveries concerning the ignition wiring harness. If we need better spark--we need better wiring--the oem ignition harness leaves a lot to be desired.
I don't see an issue with the oem harness but rather the ground to the coils. I for example grounded my MSDs to the chassis and from that same bolt connection another ground wire straight to the battery neg post. Also, a ground wire from the middle iron (there is a bolt location between both rotor housings in between the spark plugs location) to make sure that the plugs receive plenty of ground. I also use MSD superconductor wires. BTW, my coils are located directly behind the coling fans in order to keep them cool and not above the oem engine design.
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Old 05-28-2012, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Galen Darkmoon View Post
Juan must be secretly one of dem puerto ricans come to the states with an 8 bazillion hp rotary engines to make fun of us crackers.

You go ace.
Not really

First rule of thumb is to stop comparing the rotary engine to a piston engine. If you do that the rest will be easy.

Second, don't read to much into and just do it after reasonable/reputable research. Remember that in theory (helicopters/bees/dragonflies) cannot fly and duck tape will not bring the Apollo 13 astronauts safely back home.

I see some people spending lots of money and braincells for nothing. So remember start with saying...my engine has no valves, no camshaft, no pistons. Followed with lets try and see what happens plus a little bit of FM (fu..ing magic).

Even the rotary experts I have come across don't understand why some of the mods they do work but all they know is that it does.

Now regarding Rican and don't forget Aussies...they do built killer rotary engines for drag racing (different animal) were the heat and durability are not a big factor. Road Racing is totally different specially when force induction comes to play on an engine that was designed to be normally aspirated. The only constant on both disciplines are tuning.

Did I mentioned Rotary Aussies and Ricans...enjoy.


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Old 05-28-2012, 02:51 PM
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220F at obdII ect is ok
short version----we need bigger wires to supply power to the coils. there is a pigtail close to the capacitator that reduces the power wire size from 18 ga to 20 gauge. A 20 gauge wire is not suppose to carry the amps we need for the 8247 coils. Well known that our dwell time is no where it needs to be in the higher rpms. the msd 8247 only requires 3 ms at 12 volts but we are at best only getting 1/2 that in the higher rpms. yep they still fire --but it can be better. Much better.
Stay tuned
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Old 05-29-2012, 08:36 PM
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YUP.
Those cars sound just like juans, just not quite as fast.
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Old 05-29-2012, 08:48 PM
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Interesting note for ya. Went to Barbs first NASA event, she asked for an instructor to take her around the track so she could get the feel for it, "wise move eh?" He was an old man like me and OD, raced in nasa for years.
He used the paddle shifters but Barb watched and he never went over 4500 rpm. At a point in time Barb saw the water temp spike from 210 to the peg. He boiled it from lugging the engine, slowed and came off the track and took time to get the water moving and kool it down. I FREAKED out. As the next 2 days went on after that tho all seems well.
Thank the lord the boss knows to watch her gauges.
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Old 05-29-2012, 10:02 PM
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BTW after talking to K&N this is the replacement filter that came with the pettit S/C. I think.
http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...x?Prod=RF-1035
If this is'nt right let me know.
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Old 05-29-2012, 10:50 PM
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Thumbs up

Originally Posted by marsredr100 View Post
I don't see an issue with the oem harness but rather the ground to the coils. I for example grounded my MSDs to the chassis and from that same bolt connection another ground wire straight to the battery neg post. Also, a ground wire from the middle iron (there is a bolt location between both rotor housings in between the spark plugs location) to make sure that the plugs receive plenty of ground. I also use MSD superconductor wires. BTW, my coils are located directly behind the coling fans in order to keep them cool and not above the oem engine design.
May want to take that up another step. Do like the 09s. Ground each coil directly to the aluminum housing that the coil feeds.
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Old 05-30-2012, 06:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Galen Darkmoon View Post
BTW after talking to K&N this is the replacement filter that came with the pettit S/C. I think.
http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...x?Prod=RF-1035
If this is'nt right let me know.
Mine isn't as tapered I don't think
will post pics when I get home
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