Pettit Super Charger Owners - Page 439 - RX8Club.com

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Old 04-13-2018, 02:35 PM
  #10951  
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I'm continuing to make progress (slowly). I got the transmission out after some swearing. I'll be getting some components out of it to send for upgrading so that I can safely hit 10k RPM in my 6 speed AT. I should also get better shifting performance that's not so sluggish.
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Old 04-14-2018, 11:20 AM
  #10952  
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Originally Posted by obliterx8 View Post
so that I can safely hit 10k RPM in my 6 speed AT.
Why tho? What is the reasoning for this?
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Old 04-14-2018, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by RotaryMachineRx View Post
Why tho? What is the reasoning for this?
More power, more noise, more fun?

Is this a bad idea? If so, why?
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Old 04-14-2018, 01:05 PM
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I don't think there's any more power to be had above 9k. Maybe I'm wrong but I believe power starts dropping off at those high RPMS.
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Old 04-14-2018, 01:09 PM
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Yeah I think you're right, but I'm limited to 7.5k now. 10k is just a safety factor. I just want it to be tuned as you could the manuals.
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Old 04-15-2018, 05:23 PM
  #10956  
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Quick update:

My care package from Ryan Rotary is ready and was sent out to me today. Looking forward to getting all this installed!

I went with the full pulley set (can run more boost later if I feel the need), the oil filler upgrade, and even got some injectors at a good price.
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Old 04-16-2018, 09:21 AM
  #10957  
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Originally Posted by RotaryMachineRx View Post
I don't think there's any more power to be had above 9k. Maybe I'm wrong but I believe power starts dropping off at those high RPMS.
Most of the dynos I saw with the SC would peak around 8200-8500.
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Old 04-16-2018, 09:23 AM
  #10958  
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Originally Posted by obliterx8 View Post
Quick update:

My care package from Ryan Rotary is ready and was sent out to me today. Looking forward to getting all this installed!

I went with the full pulley set (can run more boost later if I feel the need), the oil filler upgrade, and even got some injectors at a good price.
Nice! I prob have 2k-3k on those pulleys without slippage so far. Really have worked out great for me so far.
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Old 04-16-2018, 06:51 PM
  #10959  
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Originally Posted by keck03 View Post
Most of the dynos I saw with the SC would peak around 8200-8500.
Agreed, though running a bit over peak HP can still help to shift into a better spot in the power band for the next gear. Not that I'm going to be racing where every .01 sec matters.
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Old 04-16-2018, 06:53 PM
  #10960  
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Originally Posted by keck03 View Post
Nice! I prob have 2k-3k on those pulleys without slippage so far. Really have worked out great for me so far.
Great to hear! I'm really trying to get every aspect of this kit built right the first time - I HATE to redo things.

Any idea what size belt(s) I'll need? Did you do the Gatorback belts like our forefathers?
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Old 04-17-2018, 11:44 AM
  #10961  
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I first used just regular belts and then switched to Gatorback when I first had slippage and stuck with them. I should be able to get the part number off of the one on it. What boost pulley are you running?
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Old 04-17-2018, 11:52 AM
  #10962  
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I'm starting with the low boost pulley... 90mm? I'm assuming the smaller the pulley the higher the boost, but don't have the system together to analyze it. I don't really know where each pulley goes yet.
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Old 04-18-2018, 06:37 AM
  #10963  
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Originally Posted by obliterx8 View Post
Great to hear! I'm really trying to get every aspect of this kit built right the first time - I HATE to redo things.

Any idea what size belt(s) I'll need? Did you do the Gatorback belts like our forefathers?


Gatorbacks are now Continental Elite Poly-V Belt. I don't recall offhand the belt currently in my -8, but you can get a close guess at the size needed by running a flat electrical cord around the pulleys as installed, with the tensioner about 1/3rd extended. The Continental part # 4050330 is a Poly-V, 5-rib, 33". I *think* mine turned out to be a 33.5", so that would have been a 4050335.

You will need a 40603XX (Poly-V, 6-rib, 30-something inches).

Have fun!
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Old 04-22-2018, 07:00 AM
  #10964  
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Thanks Striker, that answers pretty much all the questions I could possibly have.
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Old 04-23-2018, 05:30 PM
  #10965  
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So I may have gotten a bit carried away here when stripping the engine down for the supercharger install. I'm almost down to the short block in the engine bay.

But, when I looked at it when I was all done (like the pic), it occurred to me that maybe I should have a rebuild/upgrade done to the engine. I'm currently at 41,000 miles on it and have never had any issues, though haven't had it compression tested and can't really do that now. Does anyone have any input? Should I do nothing, just get a rebuild, or go for a built engine? I know this is a very open-ended question, but I am torn on what to do. I have the money for it, but don't really need to spend that kind of money now either. My engine is fine, but who knows when it will go? I have it all torn down basically ready to put in a crate now and would really hate to have to do this work twice.

Please help! Any input is welcome.
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Old 04-23-2018, 10:09 PM
  #10966  
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My opinion is that I wouldn't bother with a rebuild until you start seeing low compression symptoms (hard to start when the engine is warm, e.g. after filling up with gas). When you run a custom tune, the OMP rates are typically increased, and if the chrome surface is still in tact, it could last another 40k miles.

The other scenario you may be trying to prevent is a catastrophic engine failure, which would likely occur (or not) regardless of whether you get it rebuilt - so in my opinion not a reason for an engine rebuild. Just make sure you don't run lean, so keep a good tune and review it every 6 months. Also have an AFR gauge in your line of site that you can keep an eye on when you're doing WOT pulls - any time you see an AFR 12.0 or more while under boost, you're running too lean and need to drive out of boost until you get it sorted.
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Old 04-28-2018, 07:11 AM
  #10967  
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So does anyone know if all of the rewiring in the Pettit manual is necessary? Or which part is necessary? Obviously not running the Int X, will be getting tuned via MazdaEdit, so I'm thinking nothing needs rewired? I don't want to chop up my wiring harness if it's not necessary!
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Old 05-01-2018, 08:57 AM
  #10968  
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Originally Posted by JimmyBlack View Post
My opinion is that I wouldn't bother with a rebuild until you start seeing low compression symptoms (hard to start when the engine is warm, e.g. after filling up with gas). When you run a custom tune, the OMP rates are typically increased, and if the chrome surface is still in tact, it could last another 40k miles.

The other scenario you may be trying to prevent is a catastrophic engine failure, which would likely occur (or not) regardless of whether you get it rebuilt - so in my opinion not a reason for an engine rebuild. Just make sure you don't run lean, so keep a good tune and review it every 6 months. Also have an AFR gauge in your line of site that you can keep an eye on when you're doing WOT pulls - any time you see an AFR 12.0 or more while under boost, you're running too lean and need to drive out of boost until you get it sorted.
I vote for this as well. None of the builders that I spoke with were too confident in any additional mods to the rebuild would make the motor "bulletproof" for boost. They all said that there would mods to help it last longer but no 100%. I would drive it until it goes. Plus then you can get a baseline so you know what feels right. Or god forbid some detonation during tuning.
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Old 05-01-2018, 09:01 AM
  #10969  
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Originally Posted by Striker-7 View Post


Gatorbacks are now Continental Elite Poly-V Belt. I don't recall offhand the belt currently in my -8, but you can get a close guess at the size needed by running a flat electrical cord around the pulleys as installed, with the tensioner about 1/3rd extended. The Continental part # 4050330 is a Poly-V, 5-rib, 33". I *think* mine turned out to be a 33.5", so that would have been a 4050335.

You will need a 40603XX (Poly-V, 6-rib, 30-something inches).

Have fun!
Sorry for the delay. I swear every time I stopped the belt number was at the bottom. Oddly I cant find the cross reference for that number. I checked my amazon and I ordered 4060345, 4060340, and 4060325 last year so its one of those.. I'll try to figure it out
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Old 05-01-2018, 05:22 PM
  #10970  
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Originally Posted by obliterx8 View Post
I'm continuing to make progress (slowly). I got the transmission out after some swearing. I'll be getting some components out of it to send for upgrading so that I can safely hit 10k RPM in my 6 speed AT. I should also get better shifting performance that's not so sluggish.
not sure if you would be interested but i have a carbon fiber drive shaft sitting in my garage. i know some a/t guys switched to the m/t shaft.
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Old 05-01-2018, 07:04 PM
  #10971  
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Keck, thanks on both counts. I'll let you guys know what I do with the engine.

200, I'd consider it, but I'm not sure where you're at. I'll PM you.

In other news, my transmission is back together and ready to go in... but my engine is out for at least a good exterior cleaning, so the tranny might sit for a bit.
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Old 05-04-2018, 09:09 AM
  #10972  
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Oh and I want to warn you about that honeycomb air straightener. My tune def was messed up and threw error codes. I reset the ecu and pcm and it fixed it. The first day or two it ran fine but my AF dropped to 10:1. Then the ECU freaked out and kept the car at like 10.5 at even idle so I had to rev it to keep from stalling. The error codes were all AFM related. After the reset, my tune went back to 11.2 or so at full load. This is still the tune from 11psi so a little richer makes sense.
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Old 05-04-2018, 02:14 PM
  #10973  
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Originally Posted by keck03 View Post
Oh and I want to warn you about that honeycomb air straightener. My tune def was messed up and threw error codes. I reset the ecu and pcm and it fixed it. The first day or two it ran fine but my AF dropped to 10:1. Then the ECU freaked out and kept the car at like 10.5 at even idle so I had to rev it to keep from stalling. The error codes were all AFM related. After the reset, my tune went back to 11.2 or so at full load. This is still the tune from 11psi so a little richer makes sense.
You can't just chuck one of those in without a re-tune !
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Old 05-04-2018, 02:45 PM
  #10974  
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Keck, you got me worried. Hopefully you just didn't tune it like Brettus said. I know the system is sensitive to changes in airflow/turbulence, so as long as I get a tune for mine, I'm guessing it'll be okay.
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Old 05-07-2018, 08:21 AM
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I didnt retune it before I used it. It was odd that I put about 25-30 miles on it and it was fine. I was concerned it would affect it because of the nature of the Pettit blow through MAF so I took it slow. I was confused why it was good. Then the ECU freaked only a few miles from my house. The motor was not warmed up yet so I was keeping it off boost and lower revs. I have another tuning session with MM this wednesday and ask for his input. What is odd, is somehow when I cleared everything, the car is running better than it had before. But I had reset the ECU and PCM as well in the past when I swapped coils.

It is running so good right now that I prob would not have bothered with a fresh tune for the motor. I prob won't bother putting the filter back in and rebuilding the tune since its so close to perfect now. My prior tune took 7 revisions and I dont want to go through that again. Well mostly the datalogging.

Obliterx8 who is doing your tune? Do they have a base map they are starting from?

Last edited by keck03; 05-07-2018 at 08:34 AM.
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