OD: Recieved those 2 oil cooler fans from rx8performance.com, not bad looking kits. Youve seen the track we mainly run, not to much straightaways to kool it down. Hoping they will help a bunch in the summer heat. AND the misses came home from work the other day and called kwik load trailers, she's just shy of ordering a trailer so the old man pit crew doesn't have to change tyres everytime, and we can travel far enough to hit some of the bigger tracks in texas. Check the vid at the bottom of the link. How slick is that?
http://kwikload.com/ She luvs me. LOL ya right.

 

Oh damn man--that is so sick! Oh honey look what Galen just got--can I have one too----now honey put that frying pan down--you know the emergency room bill the last time wasn't worth it--you said so yourself---honey, honey----Oh hell--gotta go!

 

We'd be happy to take up a petition for ya, maybe add in a new truck needed to pull it, also a few ideas for a second job for the misses to help ya dream come true.
Just trying to be helpful here ya know.

 

do you 'springless' bypass valve guys find that you have a harder time getting into boost (valve stays open) or that the valve pops open during partial vacuum (half throttle)?

 

I was always curious about the reason for that too. I have the bypass in as it was sent and boost starts in at 1/4 to 1/3 throttle, very smooth in and out of boost.

 

I think a lot of the Hymee bypass issues aren't the spring, but just how the signal is plumbed.

 

boost, of course, is dependent on throttle position--but it is instant. Partial throttle with no boost is more easily drive able and less overall stress on the engine. Remember even without boost the design of the SC system allows the intake to be more efficient--so the car is faster than oem --even without positive pressure in the intake system.
I know that is going to make some peoples eyes cross---but it is true--think about it.

 

yeah i get it OD, but that's what i am asking, when you are at partial throttle you still want the compressor working because it is still aiding the engine but your manifold is still in partial vacuum. how does the spring-less bypass affect this.

 

I would buy it but not right now, if its still left this autumn a buy it if its in good shape.

Right now I have too many other stuff that takes all my money. =(

And my work takes up all my time right now so it will anyway be left uninstalled to the autumn.

 

Winglebeast--- the compressor is pumping no matter what--valve or no valve. The valve just allows for that pumbing to be recirculated--ending up with no boost and intake vacuum.
The valve closes with vacuum. Opens under boost. Or is it the other way around---lol. It reacts very fast. The spring would actually slow the reaction. It would be more useful with blowers that are putting out more boost--like 15 psi or something.

 

Holy Crap OD.
I just barely have to press the pedal now and boost kicks in.
Otherwise it never does unless I just press a lil to much. If no spring=on or off I damn sure don't want that.

 

Usually bypass valves for SC'd cars use the smallest spring possible, this keeps the bypass from closing and creating boost unless your foot demands it..

 

I think the springs in the by pass valve was oridginally designed for cars with very little vacum present. Like recips with high lift cams etc. We have PLENTY of vacum and therefore no spring is really needed. Doesnt hurt ot run one, but it is ok without too.
On my car and no spring the boost can be had slowly with progressive throttle input or suddenly with a LOT of throttle input. I have always believed its better for the engine if the boost is brought on gradually so I try not to just "floor" it, even while shifting gears. I have started thinking that in the last year or so. I may be wrong?
What do yall think?

 

may explain why your power is sooner (closer together) and mine is more gradual

 

Pedal to metal - only way to go OD !

 

Replaced my SC pulley spacer today from the original aluminum one with a stainless steel one. Noticed the groves made by the old seal on the aluminum spacer. I noticed a little specks of oil around the engine bay and also had to add oil to the SC. So, took the pulley out, changed the oil seal and got the new spacer from a fellow SC forum member. Sebring on Sunday

 

^^^ thats the worse one Ive seen yet

 

If no oil specks then it should be ok --Right?
Does oil type influence this? belt tension? water meth before the blower?
What I have found on mine is using redline shockproof heavy wgt seems to make it a little quieter? I also change out the oil about twice a year. fresh oil does seem to quieten the gears some.
Is this something I should check on? I dont have any leaks and never have to add oil.

 

Its aluminum when it should be steel.

 

so I need to change it?

 

Take it out, inspect then decide if to change or reinstall.

 

And they only go in one way, there is a slight radius on one end.

 

What are you guys doing? I never got any sort of grooves on the spacer.

 

lol


I think it's caused by rpm x miles; I am on my third.
Yes, it will be steel soon....

 

I never have to add oil to the s.c. so I am going to leave well enough alone for now.
I am very **** about the oil level in the blower though. I run it just a tad low all the time.
Best oil i have found is Redline shockproof heavy. It runs the quietest/coolest. But the level is critical.
I also flipped my by pass valve around so that the boost air goes into the side port---so many have different recommendations concerning the valve, spring, no spring, mount this way that way etc.
So I just referred to the oem Audi and other euro manufacturers recommendations. It may be just my imagination but it seems I have a tad bit more vacuum showing on my boost gauge at idle. It didnt affect boost at all. IDK.