Pettit Super Charger Owners
damn--good work dude. Now if you had an 09 trans in there that would allow lower cruise rpms--you may get that 30mpg! Wow.
You need to start a thread in the Tech section man.
How many miles on the low compression rotors?
Also PM sent.
You need to start a thread in the Tech section man.
How many miles on the low compression rotors?
Also PM sent.
sorry so late,
moon i have a spare rx8 sitting in my driveway. what do you need. i work 3 days a week i can get it to you..
i would think you recall who i am. the whole tim at sniper with bill hart is a clue!
shoot me an email to swoope gmail. or call dennys wife and ask her if denny has my phone #
beers
moon i have a spare rx8 sitting in my driveway. what do you need. i work 3 days a week i can get it to you..
i would think you recall who i am. the whole tim at sniper with bill hart is a clue!
shoot me an email to swoope gmail. or call dennys wife and ask her if denny has my phone #
beers
Last edited by swoope; Mar 2, 2012 at 02:09 AM.
Just got back from Homestead-Miami Speedway NASA FL event and was able to move up from HPDE2 to HPDE3 on my quest to attain TT status by the end of the year. The best part was able to track using turns 3/4 (37 degrees angle). New COBB tune (done by email) by Steve Kan and using four (4) 1000cc injectordynamics.com fuel injectors. No more 90+ duty cycle while boosting at 10+ psi Currently running a little rich to keep it safe until dyno tune in mid-May.
Car ran cooler and smother than last year but I did not pushed it hard ala Sebring cuz didn’t want to tow the car 4.5 hours away from home due to mechanical failure. Will do after the dyno tune in mid-May.
Ambient temps in the 80s with ECT 105~115 and ditto for the EOT
Met the owner of formerly know Japtrix now Pros (nice guy) tuning a 20B NA RX8 using a microtech as fuel management. BTW using the stock fuel pump without return. Car sounded effing awesome and ran flawlessly.
I also run the stock fuel pump (latest S1 series version) and monitoring with a digital fuel pressure sensor. No fuel pressure or starvation issues whatsoever.
Sorry, no videos this time cuz I set the camera to photo mode by mistake, ugh!
Car ran cooler and smother than last year but I did not pushed it hard ala Sebring cuz didn’t want to tow the car 4.5 hours away from home due to mechanical failure. Will do after the dyno tune in mid-May.
Ambient temps in the 80s with ECT 105~115 and ditto for the EOT
Met the owner of formerly know Japtrix now Pros (nice guy) tuning a 20B NA RX8 using a microtech as fuel management. BTW using the stock fuel pump without return. Car sounded effing awesome and ran flawlessly.
I also run the stock fuel pump (latest S1 series version) and monitoring with a digital fuel pressure sensor. No fuel pressure or starvation issues whatsoever.
Sorry, no videos this time cuz I set the camera to photo mode by mistake, ugh!
Last edited by marsredr100; Mar 13, 2012 at 08:14 PM.
It's actually a ringer map for mpg, and I only got the dreaded + 19 to 1 A/F cell once. (my gauges can clear a cel)
Not an everyday drivable map.
I wanted to go a little lean, not that much!
That was also without a negative timing split, the low compression of my motor seemed to allow to to go there stable, it actually ran very smooth at way over lambda, and cool too; the engine coolant and oil temp went down a degree or two while I cruised.
My goal is a stable 18-18.5 to 1 in closed loop cruise.
At 80Mph my injector duty was at 5.0, and there was no detonation, I had seen greater injector duty at 45Mph cruising before.
I wonder what I could do with a negative timing split?
The fuel does fatten up under any more load, I did this to the specific rpm and load I had recorded cruising at around 80 Mph by changing my 4-6 gear fuel.
Basically I drove it 1-3 to get going, then 6th gear and take it easy...
It would be awesome to find a consistent 30 Mpg from a forced induction rotary.
Not an everyday drivable map.
I wanted to go a little lean, not that much!
That was also without a negative timing split, the low compression of my motor seemed to allow to to go there stable, it actually ran very smooth at way over lambda, and cool too; the engine coolant and oil temp went down a degree or two while I cruised.
My goal is a stable 18-18.5 to 1 in closed loop cruise.
At 80Mph my injector duty was at 5.0, and there was no detonation, I had seen greater injector duty at 45Mph cruising before.
I wonder what I could do with a negative timing split?
The fuel does fatten up under any more load, I did this to the specific rpm and load I had recorded cruising at around 80 Mph by changing my 4-6 gear fuel.
Basically I drove it 1-3 to get going, then 6th gear and take it easy...
It would be awesome to find a consistent 30 Mpg from a forced induction rotary.
Team address's that with evans and its a good option to use.
I have to use a secondary radiator when the ambient is over 90-95F. Under that I am find with the oem radiator and 50/50 coolant. I do use a different fan controller which helped a lot.
I also have an axicillary fan on the front of the radiator and on the rear of the drivers side oil cooler for emergencies. Those are very rarely used ( usually when I am stuck in traffic on a very hot day)
But a couple things--synthetic oil---a GOOD aynthetic oil. I have converted over to redline 5w/30. It has the hsht needed and protects better than most 40w's. It runs cooler where it counts, you can see an immediate difference in the eot's
Richen up the a/f a little since that also helps cool the charge.
May sure your IAT's are as cool as they can be and USE DAMN GOOD GAS. I no longer use pump gas at the track and I dont run my engine up on the street..
Ignition timing can also be a factor on combustion chamber temps. Tune wisely.
When Cam builds an engine he uses some waterjacket modifications especially around the sparkplugs.
Juan --why did you go down to 25 gap? I am running 28-30 but I do index my plugs. IDat helps anything or not. I use the densos. I like them better than the ngks. The grounding strap is much stronger.
A little hint--buy a cheap ultrasonic cleaner, use vineger and drop the sparkplugs in it. They will come out looking brand new. The engine will run like it has new plugs. No need to replace the plugs so often.
I no longer premix 1 oz per gallon at the track, i only use 1/4 oz per gallon. i was speaking with some 2 cycle motorcross teams and they where telling me how pre mix affects the octane and how it is possible to predisponse the engine to detonation. I use so much oil at the track anyway that i am thinking 1oz/per gallon is too much for a FI engine.
DUDE--seriously check out TORCO additive. It is much easier and cheaper to use than buying race gas. It is legit and many, many racers and tuners use it. It is NOT one of those octane boosters at the auto parts store.
I have to use a secondary radiator when the ambient is over 90-95F. Under that I am find with the oem radiator and 50/50 coolant. I do use a different fan controller which helped a lot.
I also have an axicillary fan on the front of the radiator and on the rear of the drivers side oil cooler for emergencies. Those are very rarely used ( usually when I am stuck in traffic on a very hot day)
But a couple things--synthetic oil---a GOOD aynthetic oil. I have converted over to redline 5w/30. It has the hsht needed and protects better than most 40w's. It runs cooler where it counts, you can see an immediate difference in the eot's
Richen up the a/f a little since that also helps cool the charge.
May sure your IAT's are as cool as they can be and USE DAMN GOOD GAS. I no longer use pump gas at the track and I dont run my engine up on the street..
Ignition timing can also be a factor on combustion chamber temps. Tune wisely.
When Cam builds an engine he uses some waterjacket modifications especially around the sparkplugs.
Juan --why did you go down to 25 gap? I am running 28-30 but I do index my plugs. IDat helps anything or not. I use the densos. I like them better than the ngks. The grounding strap is much stronger.
A little hint--buy a cheap ultrasonic cleaner, use vineger and drop the sparkplugs in it. They will come out looking brand new. The engine will run like it has new plugs. No need to replace the plugs so often.
I no longer premix 1 oz per gallon at the track, i only use 1/4 oz per gallon. i was speaking with some 2 cycle motorcross teams and they where telling me how pre mix affects the octane and how it is possible to predisponse the engine to detonation. I use so much oil at the track anyway that i am thinking 1oz/per gallon is too much for a FI engine.
DUDE--seriously check out TORCO additive. It is much easier and cheaper to use than buying race gas. It is legit and many, many racers and tuners use it. It is NOT one of those octane boosters at the auto parts store.
or do some of you guys use synthetic regardless?
Juan --why did you go down to 25 gap?
Because of this from RB "However, for racing applications, we recommend the NGK R6725-10.5 plug at .025"-.032" gap - they make additional power, but they are a very "cold" plug and will foul easily. These plugs can also be used in turbocharged applications." and .025 because anything higher will produce misfires while boosting/spraying.
A little hint--buy a cheap ultrasonic cleaner, use vineger and drop the sparkplugs in it. They will come out looking brand new. The engine will run like it has new plugs. No need to replace the plugs so often.
Nicez...I clean mine on the go with my mix of 25/75 meth/water. After last year or racing the plugs came out pretty clean.
I no longer premix 1 oz per gallon at the track, i only use 1/4 oz per gallon. i was speaking with some 2 cycle motorcross teams and they where telling me how pre mix affects the octane and how it is possible to predisponse the engine to detonation. I use so much oil at the track anyway that i am thinking 1oz/per gallon is too much for a FI engine.
DUDE--seriously check out TORCO additive. It is much easier and cheaper to use than buying race gas. It is legit and many, many racers and tuners use it. It is NOT one of those octane boosters at the auto parts store.
Because of this from RB "However, for racing applications, we recommend the NGK R6725-10.5 plug at .025"-.032" gap - they make additional power, but they are a very "cold" plug and will foul easily. These plugs can also be used in turbocharged applications." and .025 because anything higher will produce misfires while boosting/spraying.
A little hint--buy a cheap ultrasonic cleaner, use vineger and drop the sparkplugs in it. They will come out looking brand new. The engine will run like it has new plugs. No need to replace the plugs so often.
Nicez...I clean mine on the go with my mix of 25/75 meth/water. After last year or racing the plugs came out pretty clean.
I no longer premix 1 oz per gallon at the track, i only use 1/4 oz per gallon. i was speaking with some 2 cycle motorcross teams and they where telling me how pre mix affects the octane and how it is possible to predisponse the engine to detonation. I use so much oil at the track anyway that i am thinking 1oz/per gallon is too much for a FI engine.
DUDE--seriously check out TORCO additive. It is much easier and cheaper to use than buying race gas. It is legit and many, many racers and tuners use it. It is NOT one of those octane boosters at the auto parts store.
Registered
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,257
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From: Maryland
OD, Id have to argue about the less oil premix. I remember reading an artical a long time ago in dirtrider about how much oil to premix. They mixed up 50/1 32/1 and 20/1 fuel oil mix. From the dyno results it showed that the fater the oil the more power was made and the cooler the engine ran. They say that it was due to less friction and more compression . They tried to mix it even fater but it kept fouling plugs. Keep in mind that if you do so your engine will run leaner yet show its running richer due to the added co2 from the oil. Another thing i remember is premix doesn't separate from the fuel until the engine is warm. Thats why a 2stroke smokes like mad when you first start it.
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,574
Likes: 2
From: Boosted...
Maybe this is a dumb question; but what, if any, cooling system mods do you have in addition to the lower compression rotors? I've been having a discussion with TeamRX8 after a minor panic attack I had about a coolant temperature spike I had in the Summer of 2010 (4 July weekend) and I've come to realize that controlling peak temperatures (not necessarily average temperatures) is key. Your lower compression rotors certainly gives you a great starting point; but I wondered if there are other pieces in place in your car that help address peak temperatures (peak in the sense of localized heating, not the peak over time). I know Oldragger has used cooling system mods for the water side and I know some members have used different oil coolers or opened up the backside of the OEM oil coolers' air path; but I don't know what you've done. Also, what header are you using (I ask based on some reading I've been doing about Mazda's SkyActiv engines)? What mid pipe are you using? What cat-back are you using?
I think my engine temps went down because it was so far past lambda.
I do not have a header, using the OEM manifold, but I have a 3 inch AP midpipe, back to the Racingbeat REV8 catback. (I am catless)
I did make the holes behind the oil coolers larger too.
So many little mods you never think of....
Team address's that with evans and its a good option to use.
I have to use a secondary radiator when the ambient is over 90-95F. Under that I am find with the oem radiator and 50/50 coolant. I do use a different fan controller which helped a lot.
I also have an axicillary fan on the front of the radiator and on the rear of the drivers side oil cooler for emergencies. Those are very rarely used ( usually when I am stuck in traffic on a very hot day)
But a couple things--synthetic oil---a GOOD aynthetic oil. I have converted over to redline 5w/30. It has the hsht needed and protects better than most 40w's. It runs cooler where it counts, you can see an immediate difference in the eot's
Richen up the a/f a little since that also helps cool the charge.
May sure your IAT's are as cool as they can be and USE DAMN GOOD GAS. I no longer use pump gas at the track and I dont run my engine up on the street..
Ignition timing can also be a factor on combustion chamber temps. Tune wisely.
When Cam builds an engine he uses some waterjacket modifications especially around the sparkplugs.
Juan --why did you go down to 25 gap? I am running 28-30 but I do index my plugs. IDat helps anything or not. I use the densos. I like them better than the ngks. The grounding strap is much stronger.
A little hint--buy a cheap ultrasonic cleaner, use vineger and drop the sparkplugs in it. They will come out looking brand new. The engine will run like it has new plugs. No need to replace the plugs so often.
I have to use a secondary radiator when the ambient is over 90-95F. Under that I am find with the oem radiator and 50/50 coolant. I do use a different fan controller which helped a lot.
I also have an axicillary fan on the front of the radiator and on the rear of the drivers side oil cooler for emergencies. Those are very rarely used ( usually when I am stuck in traffic on a very hot day)
But a couple things--synthetic oil---a GOOD aynthetic oil. I have converted over to redline 5w/30. It has the hsht needed and protects better than most 40w's. It runs cooler where it counts, you can see an immediate difference in the eot's
Richen up the a/f a little since that also helps cool the charge.
May sure your IAT's are as cool as they can be and USE DAMN GOOD GAS. I no longer use pump gas at the track and I dont run my engine up on the street..
Ignition timing can also be a factor on combustion chamber temps. Tune wisely.
When Cam builds an engine he uses some waterjacket modifications especially around the sparkplugs.
Juan --why did you go down to 25 gap? I am running 28-30 but I do index my plugs. IDat helps anything or not. I use the densos. I like them better than the ngks. The grounding strap is much stronger.
A little hint--buy a cheap ultrasonic cleaner, use vineger and drop the sparkplugs in it. They will come out looking brand new. The engine will run like it has new plugs. No need to replace the plugs so often.
I tried cleaning and it works, but if a spark plug insulator cracks and goes through your motor, it is done.
We should all tune for 87 octane, and run 93......
I gap my plugs at 34
Last edited by Rote8; Mar 14, 2012 at 09:54 PM.
Registered
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,257
Likes: 0
From: Maryland
Everyone on here has a category for things there good at. Some have more then others. The only 1 i see for bag head the mighty autocrosser is dick head. I dont think hes done ****. Dont listen to his *** OD.
Dongbag extrordinare
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,090
Likes: 0
From: Away from the fruits of my labor
Come on gents. I've looked at this thread @5 times in the last 2 years and without fail there is a public flame of some sorts. It is one of the reasons it is so annoying to participate here.
It IS hard to communicate online. So much of human communication lies in every cultures' (thousands of those btw) body language and expression. Somebody here thinks they are being clever and someone else thinks they are being a dick.
Maybe it would be better to not respond at all to (perceived or real) slights???
Maybe don't invest so much emotion into a forum where you only truly know one or two people personally?
It IS hard to communicate online. So much of human communication lies in every cultures' (thousands of those btw) body language and expression. Somebody here thinks they are being clever and someone else thinks they are being a dick.
Maybe it would be better to not respond at all to (perceived or real) slights???
Maybe don't invest so much emotion into a forum where you only truly know one or two people personally?
im cool
team is cool it took me a little while to figure out his satire.
Concerning the pre mixing...with omp usage and premixing 1 oz per gallon while on track... figuring it out means i would have a pre mix ratio inside the combustion chamber of 40-45:1. I will use 1 quart of oil per 16 gallons of gas while on track. Dont forget that is with rich a/f's too and that also means hopefully cooler combustion temperatures. Cooler temps may not burn all that oil out?
Every car is different and every driving style is a little different--so my finding may or may not be the same as yours.
I clean my plugs a lot to try and keep an eye out on what is happening inside the combustion chamber--gas being what is is and all. The denso sparkplugs (27/31's) just seem to hold up better for me than the ngk's. I do use a magnifying glass-- never seen any cracked porcelain.
OD
team is cool it took me a little while to figure out his satire.
Concerning the pre mixing...with omp usage and premixing 1 oz per gallon while on track... figuring it out means i would have a pre mix ratio inside the combustion chamber of 40-45:1. I will use 1 quart of oil per 16 gallons of gas while on track. Dont forget that is with rich a/f's too and that also means hopefully cooler combustion temperatures. Cooler temps may not burn all that oil out?
Every car is different and every driving style is a little different--so my finding may or may not be the same as yours.
I clean my plugs a lot to try and keep an eye out on what is happening inside the combustion chamber--gas being what is is and all. The denso sparkplugs (27/31's) just seem to hold up better for me than the ngk's. I do use a magnifying glass-- never seen any cracked porcelain.
OD
just for giggles here is a friend of mine at Road Atlanta in a prepped rx7--his power level is around 375rwhp. His lap time was 1:33--people that is fast at Road Atlanta. It is not a wild built engine and he is only running about 15-16 psi of boost.
to look at the car from the outside it looks almost stock except for the wing and lip--lol
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=WxWa-R4BDcI
to look at the car from the outside it looks almost stock except for the wing and lip--lol
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=WxWa-R4BDcI