zenrx8

iTrader: (4)

Maybe you didn't have the RP in there long enough, Denny, based on what Juan is finding.

That is a pretty disturbing amount of, uh, spoogh. Wonder if its because the car is being tracked or if we all have milky stuff on our dipsticks.

Rote8

Maybe a cracked rotor housing or endplate?

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Engine is out. Nothing surprising. Exhaust ports look ok.
I can see the apex seals as they pass the leading plug--must have chipped one?
Dont see much carbon--hardy any on the exhaust ports that I can see. what part of the rotor I can see actually looks really good.
Mazmart will tear it down at some point.
Yep RP in for only about 4 days Zen.
No cooling leaks.
I didnt have vacuum hooked up to the oil pan as I dont do that for a race w/e.
OD

Moon Assad

I already have that sorted out. Im keeping it under the hood.

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

This is my anti-spoogh modification since I purchased the car in 2006. It vents any type of moisture and keeps debris from getting inside the oil fill tube. Also, my blower vents into the oil fill line and thus far I haven't seen any oil spooghing out of the oil fill cap vent. I don't run a catch can neither.

Total cost @ $6 (breather material and silicone to keep the material it in place).

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

So this is what you talk about in here these days ...... SPOOGE .

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Juan it helps to live in Florida with those nice temps

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Whoa! Hold on there Mr. There is a big difference between spoogh and spooge.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

please excuse my spelling

dondo

iTrader: (7)

Question:

What do you guys see for boost on the big pulley and how is your bypass valve hooked up?

I have the bigger pulley/injectors/etc and my bypass valve signal hose is hooked up between the throttle body and the blower input. There is a spring in the bypass valve that rates around 16lbs.

The reason I ask is that I think the boost numbers are low (9lbs) and the power is low (267 was max on a mustang dyno in portland). I attached the dyno so you can see but there's a boost fluctuation around 6k rpm that I can't explain. There wasn't any belt slippage that we noticed either.

Ideas?

Dyno is here: water5.pdf

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

^ I thought Cam gave you an answer for that?

Rote8

Your vacuum from the bypass valve should come from the underside of the Pettit upper intake.
I do not know that is the issue with missing boost, but I know your current hookup is wrong.
Also, if you are using the Pettit bypass valve, the spring should not be installed.
If your engine is ported, boost levels will be lower than normal.
Most get 12 to 14 PSI with the 5 inch lower and 3.25 inch upper pulley.

You have a boost leak, a belt slip, pulley slipping on the blower drive; or someone barfed the tune where the APV opens.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Uhhhhh---to me that doesnt look too good dude?
a/f's are on the lean upswing at the high end, LOTS of flutuations, big change at the opening of an intake valve etc
Rote8 gave you an answer.
I think most of us with the bigger pulley see from 9-12 psi boost numbers.
what is your g/sec readings?
OD

dondo

iTrader: (7)

he said remove the spring but didn't tell me where to hook up the signal hose

from one of those two nipples down there? just run a hose from there to the bypass valve signal input and delete the spring?

engine is not ported

the dyno was reporting weird afrs, jeff could explain better what he saw on the ap though. this was taken at the nw dyno day with nemesis8, pdxhak, and mm earlier this month

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

This dyno was reporting kinda weird AFRs that weren't corroborated by the factory WBO2S in any of the cars we tuned that day.

That said, it is important to note that a "flat" AFR curve is not the correct fueling response for this (or any other) engine.

dondo

iTrader: (7)

so my question is do i need to move the bypass valve signal hose, change/remove the spring? do anything else to set this up correctly?

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

My bypass hose is connected to the two lower intake nipples. Basically, run two short vacuum hoses from the nipples to a plastic Y and from there one vacuum hose to the bypass. I use the softest spring for street driving and remove the spring for track day. The spring helps smooth the engine transition from high rpm to idle. I clean my bypass valve a couple of times a year and I use Vaseline to keep the plunger and treads from sticking.

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Not sure what injectors are you using. I use the 09 P1 and P2 injectors in lieu of my 04 P2 and AUX injectors. Don’t get so hung up on dyno numbers. I did achieved 299 whp on a Dynojet dyno and only 283 on a Dynomite dyno with the small pulley.

I was only able to register 10 psi boost on my 330 whp run but I do reached 12.5 earlier this month on a road course at Palm Beach International Raceway while on 5th gear, (around 7.5 rpms) and doing 120+ mph.

BTW, I get my AFR readings from my EFIdude since no previous (over 6) dynos were able to provide an accurate AFR reading.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

there you go.
one other thing--dont share that vacuum line with anything else.
OD

dondo

iTrader: (7)

why run two hoses from the nipples into one. is one from one nipple not good enough?

and do any of you use the spring that came with the bypass valve?

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

if ya seen one ya seen em both

dondo

iTrader: (7)

lol

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Dude

I'm just giving you advice of what works for me and you do as you wish with your nipples.

I think I answered your spring question earlier but just in case.

1. Spring on (softest spring you can get) for smooth high rpm to idle transition for everyday driving.

2. Spring off for competition driving.

The bypass valve functions (open/close) .00000000001 seconds faster without the spring while shifting gears in "Drive It Like You Stole It Mode" but has nothing to do with proper sealing unless you have a bad bypass o-ring or stock valve plunger. Hence my suggestion of using vaseline for internal bypass valve lubrication.

BTW, I'm just letting you know what works for me without getting too technical cuz what works on paper or NASA Jet Propulsion Laboratory type computers does NOT always works in real life applications.

Now watch the video link below a try to figure out how can you squeeze a 6.7 seconds 1/4 mile time on a crapy drag strip out of a 1.3 liter engine. It is call Rican Style "trial and error" and not computer/pocket protector R&D.

So use one, two, one hundred nipples. No spring, soft spring, coilover spring. Vaseline, KY or **** lube. Just letting you know what works for me and my 330 whp SC RX8. The rest is up to you.

Just Saying!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lBZ6T53Gfg8

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Lol--on a roll Juan?
And all this time I never knew my car had nipples---sure explains its attitude.
Remember the bypass valve will need cleaning from time to time--no problem doing that as it just screws apart.
Guess what kind of seals are in that engine?

zenrx8

iTrader: (4)

A couple of considerations here. There is no baseline dyno with no blower; not practical; all this gives is a relative idea of performance with the blower installed on your engine. There is the second consideration: the condition of your engine. Low compression/leaky seals will lower your peak power.

The AFRs are another thing entirely and indicate the map needs tweaking; you're pig rich, and your know what that does to power. The 6K rpm thing makes me think of intake resonance; I don't remember what Charles fabbed for your intake, but you may be creating a standing wave at the 6K area.

8 to 9 lbs is the most boost you'll see with the large crank pulley. You want more than that, get Cam to help you straighten out this map and then follow Juan's lead to the smaller crank pulley.

One last thing: Seattle is famous for humidity. High humidity is less 02 in the intake charge. I don't see atmospheric info on the dyno chart, but dry air will give you more power and leaner AFRs.