olddragger

iTrader: (3)

rehab works wonders now a days.

need pics of what I did to mine?
they are on the thread somewhere.
OD

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Has anyone thought about heat wrapping the return oil line? The one right below the compressor? I wonder if that would be of any use? Seems like a little hot spot close to the compressor to me?
OD

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

juan--i dont care if you are defusing bombs or not---we need update...
Is that uneven wear on that apex seal or is that carbon? What the heck is that?
od

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

I don't think it will do any good cuz as you stated it is sandwich between the compressor and the engine.

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Defuzing for explosives/ordnance hence bomb fuze and not bomb fuse

Just got a call/email earlier today from Cam.

Engine built details:

PETTIT BUILT 13B RENESIS ENGINE, BLUEPRINTED AND STREET
PORTED W/ PETTIT COOLING SYSTEM MODS, PETTIT ROTOR
HOUSING MODS WHICH BOTH IMPROVE COOLING AROUND
EXHAUST PORT AND MINIMIZE SURFACE PROTRUSION AROUND
LEAD PLUGS, OIL SYSTEM MODS IMPROVE OILING, MAIN &
ROTOR BEARINGS CLEARANCED TO RACE PSPECS, MICRO FINISH
ON ALL CRITICAL SURFACES, CLEAN ROOM ASSEMBLED AND
STATIC COMPRESSION TESTED, CAPPED AND SKIN SEALED FOR
SHIPPING.

Parts that need replacement:

ENGINE OIL PUMP
FRONT HOUSING
REAR SIDE HOUSING
ROTORS OUTSIDE SERVICE LASER CNC MACHINE APEX GROOVE

Engine should be done by the end of next week (give or take two or three). I'm not in a hurry.

Spent the week prepping and cleaning all parts. Tranny came down today and engine bay/wire harness cleaning will be next after a short trip to the panhandle this week.

Rote8

Sweet build, I bet the porting drops your boost and builds MORE power, cause it is going to flow like crazy.

Rote8

I did wrap mine, and Bastage's is also wrapped with DEI silver heat shield sticky-back wrap.
My blower does seem to stay a bit cooler, being shielded from the oil line.

A stainless steel heat shield plate under the blower, and over the oil line would be the next step, or just re-route the oil line in some nice stainless braided line.

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Heat blanket under my compressor dun a while back...re-route the oil line will be a better choice like the RB oil lines but too much for them at the moment.

http://www.racingbeat.com/RX8/Oil-System/11911.html

http://www.racingbeat.com/manuals/11...0Set-COLOR.pdf

california style

which oil lines do you mean? Isn't the one that attaches to the front plate of the compressor just a breather and therefore not really a big deal?

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Is the metal pipe that runs just above the engine and connects to the oil filter coupler. The blower will sit above the line thus covering it.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

I also placed the stickly heat shield on the bottom of my blower some time back. But while I was putting this engine in ( so nice to not to have to be in any hurry doing this), i noticed how many things that oil line heat could affect.
So I got some tube wrap stuff from DEI and put it on. Also keeping the SC shield.

I also installed a "grounding" kit, self made. I used the engine harness grounding points(x2), the EPS grounding, the oem body ground (both sides), I ground my coils to the passenger side frame, and the neg battery cable grounding point, all attached per a "circle". You really cant see it. Its all made out of black 4 gauge battery wires bought at Advanced Auto. Ended up costing maybe $15-20?
I also went through the engine harness looking for anything that may cause a future problem and actually found a couple things. Fixed those.
I ran my innovate o2 sensor to the far bung on the mazsport midpipe to try and help it stay a little cooler. Made a much better spot to hang the lc2 unit etc etc.

I also took that big ole oem vacuum chamber that we have to use for the SSV? And moved it out from the back of the engine to the passenger side fender well area--so its hardy seen. I had to make a little longer connecter wire and make some vacuum lines but that wasnt hard to do at all. That sure opened up the back part of the engine.

Oh yea --i found that my passenger side oil cooler thermostat was NOT working. So I shimmed it open.
Goal is to keep the return oil temps never over 190F.
LS2 coil pack in and am waiting for Steve Kan to come to atlanta to reset the dwell etc. He has the Cobb pro tuner set up. But I should be OK with the oem dwell for now since I am backing off boost and will not be running hard.

Sure am getting tired of working outside in the 20-30F temps!
I dont have thick enough long johns. WHile on the ground I lay on an electric blanket!
OD

Phil's 8

iTrader: (3)

Break down and build a gaarage.....even tuff shed Sears has them

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

whimp!

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Woot?

Where is that thermostat located and how do you test it?

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

just screws out the side of the oil cooler. I think its a 23mm size socket bolt. Just dropped it into the the pot of boiling water test. Mine had no movement whatsoever.
each cooler has one.
My coolant was having to carry more of the load.
OD

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

So, wondering if I should remove them since temps here in Central Floriduh don't drop normaly below 50F during the day plus I always wait for my car to fully warm up before driving. BTW, it is not a DD car.

HiFlite999

iTrader: (2)

Wondering what the normal opening temps look like ..

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

doesnt matter for just the passenger side?
Juan--PM sent.
OD

Mawnee

Wow, Very nice! Cant wait to see the results

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

There goes that income tax refund check!

Did you upgrade oil pumps --you sly dog?

california style

Aaah, the old 'lobster test' eh.....

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Nope, just a new OEM oil pump. There was some wear on the old one and we want to make sure that the engine will get a good supply of oil. Cam knows first hand that I do road race the car and plan to keep doing it. We want to make sure that everything is top notch for the future road race events. For example all bearings will be replaced and the eccentric shaft will be micro polished.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

thought that was only required for turbo cars : JK

Anyway - do you have any insight into what they do exactly ?

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Enlarge the water jackets around the exhaust port and the combustion chamber area. Not much material can be removed but every once/millimeter counts. Nothing I would like to try to do myself since I don't know the weak points of the areas in question.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

That is what Cam told me also. I dont know if he waffes them too? Every little bit helps. You didnt have any spark plug cracks did you?

Oil pump had wear? Your the first I have heard off. Hmmmm. How many miles on your engine?
I wonder if he also enlarged oil passages some--old sly dog that he is.

I forget which one but there is an upgrade for the oil pump. ASH posted about it--its from one of the older model turbo cars I think.
Are you running the Mazmart oil pressure regulator?
Was there any oil varnish stuff around the oil pump area? I had some on mine--sign that is possibily have gotten to hot there? But my overall oil temps have always be great.
You are not going to do any coatings?
What is the benefit of going with the 3 mm seals?
Sorry for so many questions----they just come out........