could different IAT's also come into play? Or does the maf readings have a compensation in them? I know it affects the tune , but i really dont know about the maf readings.
OD

 

The MAF is the MAF.
It reads mass.

 

temperature will just affect the mass..ie colder = more mass......

 

well mass is certainly affected by temps So the the hot wire would be cooled either by lower temps (increased mass) or faster flow (again increased mass)---correct?
OD

 

You are pretty much spot on OD, the molecules of air it takes to cool the wire is the mass of air moving past the sensor.

 

has that been done? was offered a 09 motor a while ago to fulfill a debt, but the 3 oil injectors vs two made me wonder. guess you just cap the center one?

beers

 

Wouldn't an 09 OMP have the "extra" injector lines?

 

hey i had a quick question. does anyone know the item number/part number for the spark plug wires wth the supercharger? I have a missfire and need to replace them.

 

no part number i know off. Just call Cam and he will sent a set or make your own---its not hard.

09 engine is a bolt in if you can use the S1 omp? Just add 2 extra lines.
09 short block does have a way of hooking up the S1 omp?
OD

 

correction on my post-----I DONT THINK THE S2 ENGINE CAN BE USED IN THE S1!!
No where to mount the S1 omp?
I dont know even if the front plate can be changed? Dont think so
OD

 

I went with MSD 8.5mm, nice wires.

 

hey real quick with the supercharger, what wires (dealing with the ignition coils) go to which plug.
i may not be askn this correctly. its like which wires (going to the ignition coil) blue, green, yellow, ect. goes to which spark plug LL RL LT RT . i hope i asked that correctly...

 

Google is your friend:
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/05_mazda_rx8_firing_order


I put it there so I would not lose it.


I have listed the coils in order from the front of the car to back in the stock coil location.
Coil input colors can confirm this.
1) Green coil input wire is Leading plug front rotor (bottom-front spark plug)
2) White coil input wire is trailing plug front rotor (top-front spark plug)
3) Yellow coil input wire is Leading plug rear rotor (bottom-rear spark plug)
4) Blue coil input wire is trailing plug rear rotor (top-rear spark plug)

 

haha rote: have you started "stage inflation"? with your 'stage 4'?

How soon before someone claims a 5? 8)

 

It was a joke, so, you are a 5?

 

you missed the point.

dont think the 09 motor will work the series one cars..

beers

 

No chance, I am firmly a 2, with no plans for more, except maybe a high flow cat if / when, mine dies.

PS Joke was understood!

 

Well, I tested my compression today thanks to Wes letting me borrow his tester and the front rotor looks good, but I am getting absolutely 0 from the rear rotor. Any ideas?

 

Ideas?
Rebuild the motor.

 

That's what I'm thinking. Is there anything I should try before I settle on that resolution? What could be causing that rotor to seize?

 

Rotors don't "seize".

If there is zero compression on any rotor face, it is probably dead.
Zero on all three is absolutely dead.

 

Plays "Taps".

 

Zero in all 3 means the apex seals are all gone on that rotor

So likely need a few spare parts to do a rebuild...likely the housing is gone for sure..maybe the rotor and irons too...

 

What are the chances that all three seals are completely gone?
And even if so, wouldn't the transducer still have some feedback... even if its minimal?
I just recently had problems with my compression tester reading all 0s (the waveform had no "spikes") and it was determined to be a defective transducer.
I'm not an expert with compression tests and have only done a few myself, but I just find it difficult to believe that you would not receive any feedback whatsoever on all three faces.
Would't the rotor itself spinning still be enough to produce some sort of pressure?
Maybe someone can shed some light on my curiosity...

 

If it has pressure on one rotor..and none on the other..I doubt the transducer is suddenly wrong.

You could confirm that by trying it again on the rotor with readings..and see if it still gives you results

If it ate one seal it would have low compression on the 2 affected faces...2 seals...should get a little bit of pressure...but all three usually results in dick all at starter motor RPM's

Funny thing you could likely pull start it and drive it to the shop....as long as you kept the RPM's above about 2500 it will run ( Drove on 50km on a zero rear rotor)...You just could screw up the bits even more than they already are......but likely not an issue as the worst is done