!!!!!!!!
You went with the v mount?
Good job--looks clean.
Data--was it worth it?

New thing for me to think about also stainless stell oil filters? Anyone with experience with them?
OD

 

was wondering when i'd see this here

oh and i meant to ask you, are you/did you weld the aluminum duct/hood for a nice clean finish? it'd allow the whole thing to be painted and look right

 

If it flows well at high speeds/track speeds, why would that change at low speeds?

 

Wild guess: less airflow at low speeds won't carry away heat soak from high speed runs, or worse, traffic. Perhaps a couple of ducted fans, or water/meth spray nozzles on the radiator(s)...

 

simple - big *** single fan .

next question

 

Wes you hit it right on the head.
Problem imho with engine bay air flow is the radiators are design to exhaust under the car ----right? But when the fans are not on that radiator heat will have to be moved per airflow through the front air intake area and convection---right. Now if you are on the interstate --its all good. But, get in the city on a high 90degree day and things start to get hot. Once again--not enough airflow--- present to help cool the engine bay.
For just experimental reasons i placed a 7 inch high speed fan on the top area of the engine --more so on the exhaust side and i lifted my hood a little per the MM trick so the fan could get a little more fresh air. Results? Things got hotter. WHY?? IMHO the airflow of the fan did not have room to push the engine bay air out. The exhaust side of the engine ie pretty crowed as is the intake side. Fans in the engine bay or stronger fans on the radiator will not help engine bay temps.
Alternator temps were in the 180's to 190's, fuel rail temps were in the 170's 180's!!! Etc.
exhaust header temp at parking (i do have mine insulated) was 190F. Thats good at least but it is also in a better airflow area.
Remember my engine coolant and oil temps are fine--never over 180--185.
Ideas for low speed reduction of engine bay heat---
1- Vented hood? Has anyone measured the reduction in engine bay temps using the various hoods out there?
2- extend the radiator d/c duct a little further and insulate it?
3- somehow use the side vents?
4- GET RID OF THE OEM RADIATOR POSITION? Get an aftermarket one that will fit a vertical instalation further toward the front. There is room I think on the backside the bumper support.
This would open a LOT of room in the front of the engine bay?
This may not be as hard as it sounds.
Thoughts??
What kind of underhood temps are yall seeing?
OD

 

what is that ? an intercooler ?

 

Yes.

 

MM, that looks sweet.

Going to put a protective mesh over it?

 

Maybe, but probably not. So far, the only thing to hit it have been bugs, and they go in at an oblique angle. Even on the track days, the errant rubber seems to go right by.
The ICs are so cheap, I'd rather expend them than give up even a fraction of the cooling benefit.

 

really clean --like the look too.
After seeing that ---maybe I am being a little **** about underhood temps.
OD

 

HELP WANTED !

I have a glowshift boost/vaccum gauge instaled but I do not know where to plug it.
If I plug it after the BoValve it do not work as those valve sucks instead of blowing!

 

I already answered JMK! 8)

The intake manifolds (both upper and lower) have nipples where you can plug in sensors.

 

I pluged to the lower nipple but it didn't work corectly...only vaccum never boost :s

I'll try again in few minutes

 

HELP ! i am desperate !

I tryied for hours to connect every where !
I've got a glow shift boost / vaccum gauge
but it only detects suction (vaccum) everywhere I pluged it.

why the T has a vaccum restriction ?

arf..i am lost

 

Three possibilities that come to mind

*do you have a one way check valve in the line to the guage ?
*the guage does not work
*you are not makeing any boost

 

or it is installed before the SC

 

* I do have a one check valve ( green & white ) just after thé vaccum box
* the gauge do work. If i blow in the Line it detect boost
* Can't answer this one

i pluged it between the s/c nipple and the bov ...

I ll take some picts

 

Dude--- a boost/vacuum gauge is a simple thing. it will either work or not.
if you have it plugged into the lim nipple and it shows vacuum (what vacuum number was it by the way?), then if the gauge is ok it will show boost when you give it enough gas. did you drive the car with it installed? Or just free reving it?

By the way my wife and I have thought about coming to your country for our anniversary. it reminds me of the "old Caribbean" that I miss so much.
olddragger

 

So you have a one way check valve in the line to the boost gauge ?

If so , there is your problem .

 

no, the check valve should be there, after the vac tank.

I spose check to make sure its facing the right way though?

It shoudl be :
vac tank -> check valve -> "T" piece split to -> UIM nipple & Bypass valve nipple

 

er not sure about how the SC is set up . What I can say for sure is , if there is a check valve between the boost guage and the pressure/vac source that you will only get either vac or boost , not both .

The clue is in the name : 'ONE WAY check valve'

 

the check valve is just from the vac tank though.

Boost come from the charger into the intercooler UIM, LIM then engine. If a boost gauge sensor is in the LIM, or UIM, it should read boost fine....
My boost sensor is in one of the LIM nipples (I have a charge temp sensor in the UIM)

 

ok guys I'll try again !

0D > that would be a pleasur to see you theire

btw I installed a new catback (exotic speed TII 3" without silencer) and my car do not work anymore... strange isn't it

 

Huh?
Dont understand that?


Well guys I took my engine and a/w intercooler to the next level of efficitcy.
We all know at speed the cooling is ok. Heck the engine bay is cooler on track than on the road and the engine and related stuff is also good.
It has been low speed heat soak that i have been fighting. Here is my 1st attempt "at the next level'
My secondary radiator had the engine coolant good--no problems with low speed cooling of the coolant. However my a/w intercooler was having probs with low speed driving struggling to get good cooling done.
Yall know that I mounted my 2 radiator on the front support beam. Worked well but the entire system lacked something.
Well, it is not there anymore. I have a beeter set up now.
I knew the i/c needed better air flow so I mounted my i/c radiators on the front beam and now they are verdical and up front, i shorten all the hoses i could and i installed an increased flow rate pump. Now the intake air temps without my w/m system running is cooler by 20-25 degrees AND it cools heat soak down much faster. So on a 90F day my intake charge temps without w/m is at 115F -120F or so in normal suburbian driving. On the road it is 115 or below. This is with a/c on.
Now what I did with my secondary radiator (i have a single-- size 21x7) is to mount it on the undertray with a space cut out so it can ventilate. Already been done you say? Yep it has--and by reall good people and it works really well. BUT, you still have to have air movement which during stop and go is pretty limited.
SO what I did was to not mount a scoop over ithe cooler, instead i mounted a switched fan on top of it. That has worked out extremely well. Warm up is now faster and I can control the temps when i want. So at stop and go time if i see 190F i switch it on and the temps drops to 175-180 in a couple minutes---no ****!
On the road the engine is fine with just the air flow and no fan. coolant 170-180 at most. (I drilled my thermostatnt a long time ago)
So there you have it---better intercooler/radiator airflow efficentcy and control of the engine temps during these hot day in stop and go traffic. Sweet --I pat myself on the back and other areas when the wife aint looking!
OD