Is there any way to "rig it" so that it starts more consistently?

I figure i'll just set the idle higher to overcome that issue.

 

start getting into heat issues --- if you idle at 3K
OD

 

your socal dyno seems to suggest low compression does make a difference ?

 

Morkus, we share the same problem. Put the car up last year; ran like a champ, started easily. 15.5 K mi (as in 15,500). Put on a new blower; wont start now; compression test across all faces shows low. Acts like a classic flood. Been over the installation with FTC, all good. Only conclusion I can come to is that the seals under compression stuck there from sitting so long. When I got the car it smelled pig rich at idle, would stink up the cabin; definitely a good candidate for building up carbon.

Weather's nicer, going to try to pull start it this weekend, the decarbonize like OD sez, but if those seals don't come back out and play, it'll be new motor time.

Standard NGK plugs, new; new RX8 coils, good spark, hot battery (Optima) with a second battery in parallel.

Like you said, no love.

 

dang dude----winterizing must be a real bitch?
w/m system install time or do you already have one---cant remember.
You probably already know but, MMO or ATF are really good things to use to decarbon . Soak it-soak it-soak it--all faces and then some. Then warn the neighbors/local fire department when you crank it.
fingers Xed

 

Nah. Something else was going on there. Looking at the torque readings, it seems that my wheels were just slipping on the rollers at high RPM on every run, not just the first few (where it completely ran away).
I made 30% more power than that just a week earlier with no changes and the car drives exactly the same.
I'll put it back on the dyno here in Phoenix today or tomorrow and see what's up.

 

I have stock in MMO. Been a weekly ritual all winter. Rotor faces heavily carboned. I don't know what the previous owner did/was doing, but I'll bet that Cobb AP had something to do with it.

Fire Department - LOL. Yep, they know me.

 

He---!
Hey MM are you chasing something?

Guy--i finally did it. I have been looking into changing the a/w pump for a while. mine is 3 yrs old and doing ok--but better now than sorry later --right. I sourced a Rule livebait pump that is rated at 500gph in freeflow (much less when under pressure like ours) and I think it did help some. I do have a faster flow but not by a large margin. Its bigger (twice as big) and i mounted it inbetween the front bumper support and air intake of the car. Fit snug and just zip tied it on.
I may try the Ford Lighting one later--dont know yet. This Rule pump cost about $45 and is readly available from Bass Pro or other boating places.
The size of the intercooler intake and exit pipes does cause some restriction (may be a good thing?) and I am not sure if getting a bigger tubed cooler would be any better.
I mean the system works well as is---but i have to tinker with something

 

I'm blaming the LHC.

 

So I've been contemplating going S/C vs swapping a 13-brew, the only thing I'm wondering, is there a smaller pulley that is offered. 8 PSI may be fun, but I'd like 12psi. I figure with upgraded fuel system(Walrbo pump and some bigger injectors) and upgraded ignition, running 12psi should be no problem and probably good for 325+rwhp

 

Once the "stock" blower is running, you change the lower crank pulley to a larger diameter pulley.

 

So the actual blower pulley isn't changed like in a conventional procharger setup. The crank pulley is changed to a larger than stock setup? Are these offered or where can you pick one up to raise the boost to around 12psi.

Also, with a setup at 12psi, with bigger injectors, alky/meth injection shouldn't be needed, or am I second guessing this. I'm just tryin to plan things and go with whichever setup is going to be best to meet the power goals I'm wanting.

 

Larger injectors come with the 12psi pulley, however you should definately build up all areas of concern before considering bumping the power even more, ignition, efficient cooling(coolant, IATs, W/M), the average most 12-13psi SC setups are seeing power wise is about 315-330whp, I only mention that since your have a power goal, do you have an objective with the car? DD, track *****, somewhere in between?

 

I think the secondary injectors need to be swapped out as well.

Be really, really, really careful with those fuel line connectors.

Dat.

Start small, work out the tune, then go for the bigger pulley if your *** hasn't ripped a hole in your seat from the smaller pulley setup.

 

If I can get my master mechanic to get busy, I am hoping to have a 12psi pulley that will not slip.................My current large pulley needs help - can't keep it from slipping.

The design is done it just needs some machining and final fitting.......After this last dyno meet I think we are both motivated to complete it.

 

MM-----Lol----it's good and fustrating to have something to tinker with.
Talcum powder

Fate----wise advice has been given. Get the standard 8psi setup to begin with. Run the car--see how you like it. Dont go for a specific hp figue---not speaking of you now but a lot of people cant fully use the power they already have.
The 8psi set up may surprise you.
The 12psi set up will need an injector upgrade ---the fp upgrade is not absoulutely required depending on what you are doing. DO NOT REUSE THE FUEL LINE THAT CONNECTS THE INJECTOR BANKS--it can develope a sudden and catastropic leak if you do.
with the 8 lb set up 300 hp to the wheels is possible but i think most get from the 275-290 range?
325 and above is still within the blowers range but really what makes the difference is the TQ. For example my redline now is at 7.5--7.7 range.
But as stated start out with the 8psi set up---increased power really really changes the car.
w/m is STRONGLY advised imho on ANY fi set up with this engine.

Oh an Phil---- i never get any belt slip (when I have it adjusted right) at my redline? Anyone else?

 

The objective of my car is basically to make panties drop and be fun as **** to drive. In all reality though, its gona be a cruiser and drift *****.

 

I've just been doing alot of research between the 13b-rew and doing a supercharger setup, and price for price, they are about the same.

I can get a motor for $750, have it done with a big street port for $1100, gt-35r kit for $2600, PFC for $1100, and fuel system for $850. Thats a little less than $7000 for all of that and I can more than install it myself. That setup without W/M injection would make 450rwhp all day on 15-17psi.

If I went the supercharger route I'm probably 7500-8000 into the setup and probably would make 350rwhp(that is the goal I'd like to make with the renesis).

Just having to weigh different things.

 

lol----then all you need is the 8lb set up.
A really, really good thing to do also is to get the 09 transmission in it---the gearing is great and the shifting is better. Changes the car a lot.
OD

 

at the dyno day this past weekend we had an 09 on the rollers and it was interesting to see the gearing changes in action.
4th gear tops out much faster.


back to our reguarly scheduled programming...

 

I would have said the same thing until I put it on the dyno. I get a lot of slip when adjusted as directed and even when over tightened. Tried a little bit of everything even belt dressing. We have the solution and now maybe the desire............................................ ......................................

 

...can be another man's delight.

I would love to be worrying about my belt slipping on my pulley right now.

On my car.

If it actually ran.

Instead of wondering if it ever will

 

so you were not holding boost?
what rpm did the belt slip at?
I did have to do a little work on the idler pulley to get mine right. I dont like the idler pulley set up. need a better one---talk to that mechanic
usually with belt slippage dont you get erratic a/f's?
so you are going with the cog drive system---interested in the increased noise it will make., if any?

 

To be honest with you I was so pissed that it was slipping that I can't remember what the RPM was but I'm sure that MM and Ray remember.....Already worked on the idler pulley but may do some more.....I will let you know what the outcome is.

 

It's called the 12PSI pulley, but it's more like 13PSI... and 14PSI right at the top...