I agree... definitely strange working fine with one and not the other.
But how can a pressure transducer not receive any feedback even with a spinning rotor with no seals (worst case)?
Not saying you guys are wrong... I'm just trying to understand and visualize how its possible.

 

At 250ish RPM's..the restriction at the seal end is large enough that the air bypasses fine with no pressure buildup. As the speed increases the effective restriction would increase...till the effective compression is larger..

There also might be a low end filter on the circuit that doesn't show low readings...that would depend on the type of tester it is. I know the Rotary Dynamics tester reads very small values...not sure about the Mazda tester

 

never heard of all 3 seals giving it up at the same time? Especially bad enough to run a Zero on all 3 faces?
should be easy to here a big different between the 2?
puzzling?
OD.

 

when there is a piece of apex flying around in there it is not hard to lunch the whole shooting gallery

 

Uh, when one goes, it gouges the housing, which eliminates the possibility of the other two making compression.

 

I'm using the TR-01 tester. I started with it on the rear rotor as that was where I found oil in the spark plug holes. I got 0 on all 3 faces and 0 rpm so I switched to the front rotor where I got 108, 110, 109 at 259 rpm. I switched back to the rear and got 0's again. I don't doubt the internal damage is extensive as the car went through about a half a quart of oil in it's final 30 seconds of life and the fact that I have a drip of oil coming from my tailpipes. I'm just scratching my head as to what caused it? I wasn't really getting on it. I was probably at 5K rpm and my meth had just begun to spray when it misfired a few times and then poof. Now I need to figure out the whole engine replacement thing. Is anybody planning on a vacation to VA Beach this summer?

 

I'll be back in March... prolly a long time to wait though.

 

maybe not an apex? maybe oil control rings/side seals?
Apex seal failure usually doesnt cause increase oil use does it? Or oil in chambers?
Regardless--- it's teardown time.

I am planning on my 25th wedding anniversety in July--since the Gulf may not be an option.....
let me ask the wife

Kane ole bud---how the heck are ya? Keeping your butt down? Unit doing OK?

OD

 

Actually, I'm probably going to wait awhile to do this. Up until Oct., I'm underway a lot so I wouldn't even be able to do anything. Heck it took me a month to get this far with it. After that, my wife will be on deployment until the end of February and I'll be playing Mr. Mom, so it might actually be march before I have time to deal with it anyway.

 

its our 1st anniversary today! hoorah!

 

Well if you need a hand LMK.

OD, so far so good.... 9 months to go.

 

Just thought I never post a picture since the paint job

kind of mate black

sorry for the picture's quality (took from my phone )

 

looks good!

 

nice....I like the bonnet.

 

It could very well be an apex. In previous rotaries, a damaged apex seal could exit through the peripheral exhaust port allowing two seals to still work correctly.

With side exhaust ports, there is no exit path for the apex seal, so it will stay in the rotor and trash the rotor housing, not allowing the other apex seals to seal at all, hence 0 - 0 - 0 compression.

 

Pulled two codes from my non-running 8 this morning:

P0103 MAF or VAF A Circuit High Input

P0223 TPS/Pedal Postion Sensor/Switch B Circuit High Input


To recap, car has not run since I installed the new SC, but ran like a top before. Will crank, catch and run for about 2 seconds, then die. Deflood procedure numerous times; Seafoamed both rotors and released apex seals; have good compression. Can't find any errors in the install; verified all circuits, vacuum lines, tested coils, confirmed plug wire routing, confirmed spark.

Having said that, I need some guidance what to do next based on these codes.
Thanks in advance.

 

MAF/wiring.

 

Sort of figured that. Anything more specific? Bad MAF? Should I spank it? Seriously...

 

Swap it for another one and see if it goes away.

May be the tune too, if they messed with the first few cells on the MAF table, but if the tune is the same, it's gotta be the wiring.

 

Entirely possible I somehow buggered the MAF when I had it out. Is there a way to check the MAF to see if it's good or bad? Thanks Kane. As far as the tune, I've talked extensively with Dian and tried to start it with both the new map and the stock map as the idle/startup cells are essentially the same; both maps give the same result, so I don't think it's the map. There is some obvious problem I'm missing, it's right in front of my face, I just can't see it. These CELs are the only clue I've got right now where to look. One of those things where I've looked at it for so long I think I need fresh eyes to spot what I'm missing.

 

unplug the maf and see if it will idle? DO NOT race the engine.
all vacuum lines are ok--Correct?
Do you have boost/vac gauge?
PM sent.
OD

 

good suggestion OD

 

Unplugged MAF. No start, no love.

Cleaned MAF/IAT.

No love.

 

Try push starting it - has worked for me when all else failed ....

 

The brute force solution when you're out of ideas.

Not so sure that's a good idea until I know why I'm getting the CEL. This car ran fine until I did the install, so the problem is obviously there. Pushing it with a defect isn't going to solve anything.

Again: look at the CEL codes, especially the TPS code. Whiskey Tango Foxtrot?