Pettit Super Charger Owners
#8276
That is a pretty disturbing amount of, uh, spoogh. Wonder if its because the car is being tracked or if we all have milky stuff on our dipsticks.
Last edited by zenrx8; 12-19-2010 at 08:34 AM.
#8277
Registered
Ok guys look at this.
https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1292693002https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1292693106
See the importance of a good vacuum to the oil pan AND getting your oil temps up to proper temperature for a length of time?
I am taking my engine out of course and it has been setting for some days, but i thought this would be interesting.
OD
https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1292693002https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1292693106
See the importance of a good vacuum to the oil pan AND getting your oil temps up to proper temperature for a length of time?
I am taking my engine out of course and it has been setting for some days, but i thought this would be interesting.
OD
#8278
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iTrader: (3)
Engine is out. Nothing surprising. Exhaust ports look ok.
I can see the apex seals as they pass the leading plug--must have chipped one?
Dont see much carbon--hardy any on the exhaust ports that I can see. what part of the rotor I can see actually looks really good.
Mazmart will tear it down at some point.
Yep RP in for only about 4 days Zen.
No cooling leaks.
I didnt have vacuum hooked up to the oil pan as I dont do that for a race w/e.
OD
I can see the apex seals as they pass the leading plug--must have chipped one?
Dont see much carbon--hardy any on the exhaust ports that I can see. what part of the rotor I can see actually looks really good.
Mazmart will tear it down at some point.
Yep RP in for only about 4 days Zen.
No cooling leaks.
I didnt have vacuum hooked up to the oil pan as I dont do that for a race w/e.
OD
Last edited by olddragger; 12-19-2010 at 07:33 PM.
#8280
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Total cost @ $6 (breather material and silicone to keep the material it in place).
#8285
100% baller (finally!)
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Question:
What do you guys see for boost on the big pulley and how is your bypass valve hooked up?
I have the bigger pulley/injectors/etc and my bypass valve signal hose is hooked up between the throttle body and the blower input. There is a spring in the bypass valve that rates around 16lbs.
The reason I ask is that I think the boost numbers are low (9lbs) and the power is low (267 was max on a mustang dyno in portland). I attached the dyno so you can see but there's a boost fluctuation around 6k rpm that I can't explain. There wasn't any belt slippage that we noticed either.
Ideas?
Dyno is here: water5.pdf
What do you guys see for boost on the big pulley and how is your bypass valve hooked up?
I have the bigger pulley/injectors/etc and my bypass valve signal hose is hooked up between the throttle body and the blower input. There is a spring in the bypass valve that rates around 16lbs.
The reason I ask is that I think the boost numbers are low (9lbs) and the power is low (267 was max on a mustang dyno in portland). I attached the dyno so you can see but there's a boost fluctuation around 6k rpm that I can't explain. There wasn't any belt slippage that we noticed either.
Ideas?
Dyno is here: water5.pdf
#8287
Registered
Question:
What do you guys see for boost on the big pulley and how is your bypass valve hooked up?
I have the bigger pulley/injectors/etc and my bypass valve signal hose is hooked up between the throttle body and the blower input. There is a spring in the bypass valve that rates around 16lbs.
The reason I ask is that I think the boost numbers are low (9lbs) and the power is low (267 was max on a mustang dyno in portland). I attached the dyno so you can see but there's a boost fluctuation around 6k rpm that I can't explain. There wasn't any belt slippage that we noticed either.
Ideas?
Dyno is here: Attachment 166373
What do you guys see for boost on the big pulley and how is your bypass valve hooked up?
I have the bigger pulley/injectors/etc and my bypass valve signal hose is hooked up between the throttle body and the blower input. There is a spring in the bypass valve that rates around 16lbs.
The reason I ask is that I think the boost numbers are low (9lbs) and the power is low (267 was max on a mustang dyno in portland). I attached the dyno so you can see but there's a boost fluctuation around 6k rpm that I can't explain. There wasn't any belt slippage that we noticed either.
Ideas?
Dyno is here: Attachment 166373
Your vacuum from the bypass valve should come from the underside of the Pettit upper intake.
I do not know that is the issue with missing boost, but I know your current hookup is wrong.
Also, if you are using the Pettit bypass valve, the spring should not be installed.
If your engine is ported, boost levels will be lower than normal.
Most get 12 to 14 PSI with the 5 inch lower and 3.25 inch upper pulley.
You have a boost leak, a belt slip, pulley slipping on the blower drive; or someone barfed the tune where the APV opens.
Last edited by Rote8; 12-22-2010 at 07:39 AM.
#8288
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iTrader: (3)
Uhhhhh---to me that doesnt look too good dude?
a/f's are on the lean upswing at the high end, LOTS of flutuations, big change at the opening of an intake valve etc
Rote8 gave you an answer.
I think most of us with the bigger pulley see from 9-12 psi boost numbers.
what is your g/sec readings?
OD
a/f's are on the lean upswing at the high end, LOTS of flutuations, big change at the opening of an intake valve etc
Rote8 gave you an answer.
I think most of us with the bigger pulley see from 9-12 psi boost numbers.
what is your g/sec readings?
OD
#8289
100% baller (finally!)
iTrader: (7)
he said remove the spring but didn't tell me where to hook up the signal hose
from one of those two nipples down there? just run a hose from there to the bypass valve signal input and delete the spring?
engine is not ported
the dyno was reporting weird afrs, jeff could explain better what he saw on the ap though. this was taken at the nw dyno day with nemesis8, pdxhak, and mm earlier this month
Your vacuum from the bypass valve should come from the underside of the Pettit upper intake.
I do not know that is the issue with missing boost, but I know your current hookup is wrong.
Also, if you are using the Pettit bypass valve, the spring should not be installed.
If your engine is ported, boost levels will be lower than normal.
Most get 12 to 14 PSI with the 5 inch lower and 3.25 inch upper pulley.
You have a boost leak, a belt slip, pulley slipping on the blower drive; or someone barfed the tune where the APV opens.
I do not know that is the issue with missing boost, but I know your current hookup is wrong.
Also, if you are using the Pettit bypass valve, the spring should not be installed.
If your engine is ported, boost levels will be lower than normal.
Most get 12 to 14 PSI with the 5 inch lower and 3.25 inch upper pulley.
You have a boost leak, a belt slip, pulley slipping on the blower drive; or someone barfed the tune where the APV opens.
engine is not ported
Uhhhhh---to me that doesnt look too good dude?
a/f's are on the lean upswing at the high end, LOTS of flutuations, big change at the opening of an intake valve etc
Rote8 gave you an answer.
I think most of us with the bigger pulley see from 9-12 psi boost numbers.
what is your g/sec readings?
OD
a/f's are on the lean upswing at the high end, LOTS of flutuations, big change at the opening of an intake valve etc
Rote8 gave you an answer.
I think most of us with the bigger pulley see from 9-12 psi boost numbers.
what is your g/sec readings?
OD
#8292
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My bypass hose is connected to the two lower intake nipples. Basically, run two short vacuum hoses from the nipples to a plastic Y and from there one vacuum hose to the bypass. I use the softest spring for street driving and remove the spring for track day. The spring helps smooth the engine transition from high rpm to idle. I clean my bypass valve a couple of times a year and I use Vaseline to keep the plunger and treads from sticking.
Last edited by marsredr100; 12-22-2010 at 09:23 PM.
#8293
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Question:
What do you guys see for boost on the big pulley and how is your bypass valve hooked up?
I have the bigger pulley/injectors/etc and my bypass valve signal hose is hooked up between the throttle body and the blower input. There is a spring in the bypass valve that rates around 16lbs.
The reason I ask is that I think the boost numbers are low (9lbs) and the power is low (267 was max on a mustang dyno in portland). I attached the dyno so you can see but there's a boost fluctuation around 6k rpm that I can't explain. There wasn't any belt slippage that we noticed either.
Ideas?
What do you guys see for boost on the big pulley and how is your bypass valve hooked up?
I have the bigger pulley/injectors/etc and my bypass valve signal hose is hooked up between the throttle body and the blower input. There is a spring in the bypass valve that rates around 16lbs.
The reason I ask is that I think the boost numbers are low (9lbs) and the power is low (267 was max on a mustang dyno in portland). I attached the dyno so you can see but there's a boost fluctuation around 6k rpm that I can't explain. There wasn't any belt slippage that we noticed either.
Ideas?
I was only able to register 10 psi boost on my 330 whp run but I do reached 12.5 earlier this month on a road course at Palm Beach International Raceway while on 5th gear, (around 7.5 rpms) and doing 120+ mph.
BTW, I get my AFR readings from my EFIdude since no previous (over 6) dynos were able to provide an accurate AFR reading.
Last edited by marsredr100; 12-22-2010 at 09:24 PM.
#8298
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I'm just giving you advice of what works for me and you do as you wish with your nipples.
I think I answered your spring question earlier but just in case.
1. Spring on (softest spring you can get) for smooth high rpm to idle transition for everyday driving.
2. Spring off for competition driving.
The bypass valve functions (open/close) .00000000001 seconds faster without the spring while shifting gears in "Drive It Like You Stole It Mode" but has nothing to do with proper sealing unless you have a bad bypass o-ring or stock valve plunger. Hence my suggestion of using vaseline for internal bypass valve lubrication.
BTW, I'm just letting you know what works for me without getting too technical cuz what works on paper or NASA Jet Propulsion Laboratory type computers does NOT always works in real life applications.
Now watch the video link below a try to figure out how can you squeeze a 6.7 seconds 1/4 mile time on a crapy drag strip out of a 1.3 liter engine. It is call Rican Style "trial and error" and not computer/pocket protector R&D.
So use one, two, one hundred nipples. No spring, soft spring, coilover spring. Vaseline, KY or **** lube. Just letting you know what works for me and my 330 whp SC RX8. The rest is up to you.
Just Saying!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lBZ6T53Gfg8
#8300
Question:
What do you guys see for boost on the big pulley and how is your bypass valve hooked up?
I have the bigger pulley/injectors/etc and my bypass valve signal hose is hooked up between the throttle body and the blower input. There is a spring in the bypass valve that rates around 16lbs.
The reason I ask is that I think the boost numbers are low (9lbs) and the power is low (267 was max on a mustang dyno in portland). I attached the dyno so you can see but there's a boost fluctuation around 6k rpm that I can't explain. There wasn't any belt slippage that we noticed either.
Ideas?
Dyno is here: Attachment 166373
What do you guys see for boost on the big pulley and how is your bypass valve hooked up?
I have the bigger pulley/injectors/etc and my bypass valve signal hose is hooked up between the throttle body and the blower input. There is a spring in the bypass valve that rates around 16lbs.
The reason I ask is that I think the boost numbers are low (9lbs) and the power is low (267 was max on a mustang dyno in portland). I attached the dyno so you can see but there's a boost fluctuation around 6k rpm that I can't explain. There wasn't any belt slippage that we noticed either.
Ideas?
Dyno is here: Attachment 166373
A couple of considerations here. There is no baseline dyno with no blower; not practical; all this gives is a relative idea of performance with the blower installed on your engine. There is the second consideration: the condition of your engine. Low compression/leaky seals will lower your peak power.
The AFRs are another thing entirely and indicate the map needs tweaking; you're pig rich, and your know what that does to power. The 6K rpm thing makes me think of intake resonance; I don't remember what Charles fabbed for your intake, but you may be creating a standing wave at the 6K area.
8 to 9 lbs is the most boost you'll see with the large crank pulley. You want more than that, get Cam to help you straighten out this map and then follow Juan's lead to the smaller crank pulley.
One last thing: Seattle is famous for humidity. High humidity is less 02 in the intake charge. I don't see atmospheric info on the dyno chart, but dry air will give you more power and leaner AFRs.
Last edited by zenrx8; 12-23-2010 at 04:08 PM.