olddragger

iTrader: (3)

shifting has become fun with the Synchro saver installed and I was demonstrating to others how heel toe is NOT needed all the time. World of difference.
Miss having you with us Bro. I have always liked that front lip of yours.
Big event with NASA in Dec--maybe you can come up--we are turning Don's garage into a track ho boarding house--good times.

Rotr8 --i think my oil disaster was a big part of it--but since we are injecting pre blower i also found some w/m residue is some area. Just like the intake --in time--developes a black soot--kinda thing--so does the intercooler.
I just noticed my intercooler temps were not on par as they used to be. They are better after cleaning. I did get a little crap out--nothing alarming. Used hot soapy water then some acetone.
OD

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Had the same problem when injecting Boost Juice. Also some goop residue on my bypass vlave. No longer the case since I switched to VP M-5 methanol. No residue, no soot.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

where do you get the vp from dude? Is shipping expensive?
OD

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Go to this website:

http://www.vpracingfuels.com/vp-racing-dealers.html

and contact your regional distributor via email or phone. They will point you to your local retail seller. The M-5 will sell for @ $40 plus tax. Mix it 50/50 with distilledwater in a clear gallon container (it will get hot for a few hours). At the end you will end up with 10 gallons for @ $5 per gallon. Not bad plus the M-5 has a bit of nitromethane mixed in it.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the link-- i will have to try this stuff.
Not interested in the nitro though--damn dude!
When are you running Sebring?
OD

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

October 3rd

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

wish I could make that. Too early for me. Maybe the next time?

I have been thinking about moving my water meth nozzle to the lim. Place one each on the primary runners. It seems that there may be some slight puddling in the other runners before their valves open? I choose the primary because then you do not have to time the injection to any valve opening.
Looks like it would be easy to do?
Thoughts?
Besides--sure would look cool? No pun intended.
OD

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Not a good idea. The sudden change in temperature might chatter your spark plug center electrode ceramic insulation. If that happens, it will most likely fall in the rotor chamber thus say good bye to your apex seals.

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

My vented hood project.

No, I do not have an engineer degree nor did I consult NASA/Jet Propulsion Laboratory for the best airflow/aerodynamic profile.

I just looked at a bunch of aftermarket carbon/fiberglass hood and took it from there. I will find out next week (hopefully before next Sebring 3rd Oct event). Right now I’m doing a little body work before street trials. It will be painted flat black and only used for road courses.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Denny...think about what would happen if you had one nozzle plug up

Better to add in the UIM .

Rotr8

iTrader: (2)

Hell yeah Juan, looks sick, give Cam a call, he knows all the sweet spots and pressure zones, send him the pics,,,
Whats the underside look like?
Looking good, tell Cam I said Hi...

JMKuco

AAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGHHHHH !!!

I changed everything :
all 3 sensors !
ignition coils (got the AC Delco) !
sparks !
re-install everything (even add the big puley setup with the pettit's 2 new injectors !)

But my car still can't go over 6800 RPM !!!!!

Can it comes from the fuel pressure ???
Or Can the engine be damaged ???
Or the PCM flash isn't good ???

help wanted before I burn my car !!

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Good advice on the w.m. issue guys --thanks.
I dont think the plug ceramic could be an issue since our lim runners are so long and the plug is recessed.
But if one did clog --that may not be good. Even if I am not tuned for w/m--that imbalance may not be something good. Hmmmm--have to think more here.

Juan---nice work. You know the interesting thing about our car on the track is that underhood temps are actually lower than underhood street temps. IMHO only I think the hood alone will not help on track temps, moving the battery box may help a little, but not much. Engine bay airflow gets tricky and I choose to keep the oem design in place. Brain strain.
I wonder if that front vent is going to create a high pressure area? Have you ever been driving right after a rain etc and noticed how water gets in the hoods rotor design and stays on that little depressed lip? Thats high pressure. Now if your hood does that, then that will mean that the heat that you are trying to vent out will have to flow agaisnt high pressure. That wont happen. So the heat may stay trapped in the engine bay a little longer?
Low speed cooling would be better. But, high speed--i have a reserved doubt?
Best way to rid the engine bay of heat is to place a spoiler on the end of the undertray.
If you want to decrease engine coolant temps --get a bigger 2nd rad? Plump it using the heater hose supply and drill the thermostat. Dont ask me to get technical. Brain strain at my age is a dangerous thing.

JMK--- time to buy tickets for a couple of us to your country so we can get your car right?
Wish!!
Ok-- it sure sounds to me that something is just not hooked up correctly, or there is a big vacuum leak somewhere.
Does this happen only at full throttle or does higher rpm part throttle have it also?
I am thinking injectors. Are you sure that the injectors are in the proper place, sealed well and the injector wiring harness is hooked up correctly? It is easy to get them mixed up.
What does your plugs look like? Rich or lean, or ok? What a/f's are you seeing when this happens?
Any codes being thrown? If so what are they?
Did this start after you put the bigger pulley on and the new injectors in? Or did this start shortly afterward?
Patience brother --we will get ya there.

JMKuco

attached pict of Efi Dude !

This happen since june !
Only thing I modify is : battery in the trunk + 3" exhaust without cat
the car was hesitating but since big puley & injectors it is worse !
I had codes but I changed yesterday all 3 sensors & I did a 10min test drive and no codes yet...

the car is hesitating between 5500 & 6500, at 6500 it open something that gives some power & at 7000...just stop accelerating with lots of noise !

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

does you modified list say " no thermostat"? (nottat) ?
Anyway that file pic is nasty.
In what position did you place the upgraded injectors?
are you sure that the injectors are installed properly and with new rubber seals. the harness is installed correctly? Right plug on right injector?
When you said you replaced all 3 sensors--which ones do you mean?
You moved your battery to the trunk--right? Do you have a good ground and are you getting enough volts/current to the computer and car? Sometimes when batteries are moved like that--things can get messed up.

JMKuco

Yes I have no more Thermostat (I have one but I broke the iner parts).
And As pettit advise me to do, I stopped to engine return near the Thermostat.
All of this to force the coolant going to the radiator.

I replace the upper and lower (when looking at the car) yellow injectors.

I think it is good...as if I spray brake cleaner the car iddle do not change (I did this trick once last year and I noticed this way that the seals wasn't good)
I hope so about the plug...Can you tell me the correct position so I can give a look ?

the intake sensor + header sensor + cat sensor.

I was wondering something about that...
The ground is correct as I have the old one (I ran 2 wires to the back of the car).
But getting enough volts/current ...I was wondering to try a "capacitor"(hope this is the correct english word) in the engine bay as a battery relay.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

on the no thermostat issue---did you seal the bypass hole inside the thermostat housing? Did you drill the thermostat itself so SOME coolant will flow when the engine is cold?

I am still not clear on the injectors. Do you mean you do not have any red injectors at all?
How many upgraded (bigger) injectors did you add? 2 ? If you stand at the front of the car, looking at the injectors. The bank of injectors that has 4 of them--did you put the larger ones in the position is closest to the front of the engine and the one that is the farest away from the front of the engine?

Thats a good way to test for injector sealing.

You replaced the maf and the o2 sensor. Why did you put a sensor at the cat position when you do not have a cat?

How is the positive side of your battery install---some voltage has to constantly flow to the ecu at all times--very small amount, but some is needed.
Get voltmeter readings and see if you have any output with the engine off and what it is running.
Seems like open loop running is the problem?
OD

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Last month at Palm Bay NASA event.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

get a vid from the Sebring nasa event up!
Ye ha!
OD

JMKuco

No I didn't seal it, just put a plug into the outgoing hose.
I took out the mecanism of the thermostat, leaving the circular part + the small "hat".
Yes I added 2 new fuel injectors. yes I put them this way.
I thought I have to as the PCM may know what is right or wrong...like to adjust the AFR.
As I installed a circuit braker, I often cut the battery when I do not use the car for some time...
You mean some voltage in the engine bay while engine of ??
I will ook for it this afternoon.
yes with the hymee scanalyzer, when I check the engine, I have the "open loop" line

I first was thinking about the fuel pressure ... not enought fuel...I guess I was wrong.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

JMK---Sorry but I dont understand your thermostat set up at all.
If the bypass part of the thermostat (the lower plate etc) is removed and the bypass hole inside the thermostat housing is not sealed then the coolant flow within the engine will not operate properly.
The strange part is that your coolant temps may not reflect how hot the engine really is.


Whenever you cut all current to the pcm --it resets. That may not be a bad thing but it may cause some difficulty idling etc until the computer relearns. Unless the car is stored for some time, i would not do this.

You do not need the o2 sensor that installs after the cat. Its only purpose is to monitor the cat converter performance. You will probably get a CEL in reference to having no cat anyway.
If you do not run a cat--then removed all that air pump stuff and use a blocking plate on the exhaust header to cover the little hole that feeds the air pump thing. You gain a LOT of additional room around the engine. You may have already done this?

Ok --the injectors sounds like they are in the proper position. Are you SURE the proper connector from the harness is on the proper injector? It is easy to get them crossed up.
It could be a fuel pressure problem--what fuel pressures are you getting? I see you are running the 255 walbro set up. Do you have your oem pump still? It is easy to swap these out and just to check, you may want to reinstall the oem just to see if your pump is causing some problems?

Slowing getting there!
OD

rotarenvy

when in doubt return to the last good configuration.

the PCM has a voltage compensation for injectors etc. moving your battery to the boot could be screwing with it.

your MAF looks quite messy and doesn't seem to have smooth air flow. when my MAF has looked like this I have had hesitation's and bucking through the rev range. usually as it is too rich. I'd look at the injectors and MAF tune.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

agreed--try one fix at the time and return to the last good--if feasible.
OD

zenrx8

iTrader: (4)

Guys, I'm trying to source the screws that hold the MAF to the housing. They're stainless, 3mm x 0.8 pitch, which is finer than the standard 3mm X .5 pitch. I've scoured every www.boltplaceontheinternet.com/net and got squat. Any ideas where I can get these screw? I managed to loose one at some point.

Denny, that new lift is great, I'm working on swapping out the exhaust system and I've got plenty of room. Beats hell out of jack stands and ramps.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

whatever happened to the low compression rotor idea one of you guys was trying ? Was a dyno ever done to see what the effect on whp was ?