Bco007

haha i agree with you 100% buts its gonna be worth the wait i want a full RB SYSTEM!! gonna be sick!

Rote8

I bet it's a PITA to install the header....

morkusyambo

Juan, where is the DIY header install!!

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

i just install header today---really not that bad--have to pull the passenger side motor mount--rest is start forward. I wrapped mine also and sprayed it too. I also wrapped the ms midpipe(i called Scott and he said OK) as a resonator is really close to the trans and I am concerned about the heat.
I also installed the clutch brace. Finished it all--now the damn thing will not start. Will not crank. The clutch switch is ok--i even bypassed it to try to see if that would help. The engine fuse is ok, the room fuse is ok, the battery is ok, not throwing any codes!!!!!! I really hate electrical probs.
Seems like everytime I do something to this car something weird happens
So what did i do--i quit damn thing is setting in the backyard and will stay there for a little while.
Any suggestions?
olddragger

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Sorry but I did not take pictures of the removal or install. However it is easy and I can post the Mazda RX8 exhaust removal/installation instructions next week when I get back to my house.

Make sure you buy the three gaskets required to replace the old ones. You will need a new manifold exhaust gasket, exhaust manifold end gasket (round gasket between the tail end of the exhaust manifold and the mid-pipe/catalytic converter) and the little air pipe to exhaust manifold gasket. I reused the air pipe to exhaust manifold gasket. Also, Mazda recommends replacing the old (6) exhaust manifold nuts for new ones. I reused mine.

Steps:

1. Raise your car on 4 jack stands. (I only raised the front)
2. Make sure everything is cool or be prepared to get burn tattoos.
3. Remove the two cross member (transmission tunnel cross members).
4. Remove both oxygen sensors (exhaust manifold and mid-pipe/catalytic converter).
5. Apply plenty of WD-40 to the two rear and three front exhaust manifold and mid-pipe/catalytic converter bolts and remove.
6. Remove mid-pipe/catalytic converter.
7. Remove front passenger wheel.
8. Apply plenty of WD-40 to the 6 exhaust manifold nuts.
9. Place a 2x4 under the oil pan and use a jack to support the engine.
10. Remove passenger side engine mount and bracket.
11. Remove exhaust manifold (tail end) to transmission support bracket.
12. Remove air tube 2 nuts.
13. Loosen upper air tube support (it is a bolt located at the top of the air pipe and allows easy movement of the air pipe while removing and installing the header).
14. Remove the 6 exhaust manifold nuts. Some of the nuts might come out along with the stud. If this happens remove the nut from the stud an reinsert the stud back into the end plate with loctite.
15. Remove exhaust manifold.
16. Install header in reverse order.

You will need bolts/nuts torque specs and I post them later too.

I had to modify the OEM exhaust manifold (tail end) to transmission support bracket in order to install my ExoticSpeed header. No big deal and done with no power tools.

If you get a Racing Beat header I’m sure it will include a complete set of instructions and any additional hardware. They are pretty good at covering all minor details. Sorry but I could not wait for the RB header release. I will not recommend an OBX header since the tail end of the header does not collect all exhaust port pipes to the oxygen sensor and the metal is too thin. The ExoticSpeed header material is great, pipes are the same length, welding superior and it weights 14.6 pounds (about the same weight as the OEM exhaust manifold).

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Sorry no ideas but a little overnight break might help. Watch out for those pesky squirrels.

Bco007

should have waited for the racing beat header... lol jk

Rote8

Beer?

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

best suggestion i have heard all damn day
OD

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

double check this - it's the only thing that makes sense . Also - check the rest of the fuses .....

Rote8

I take it the starter does not spin the engine at all, no noises; or am I wrong?

Battery dead?
Battery cables tight?
Battery terminals corroded?
Can you turn the engine over with a wrench on the front nut?
Starter wires connected? (or tight?)

morkusyambo

OD. It is possible for a battery to be bad while testing good. Try taking a battery from another vehicle and using it to start the car.

Phil's 8

iTrader: (3)

I am unable to correct the map as I lack the computer expertise to do so. Vice Grip was nice enough to install it but has since disappeared. If there is anyone that knows how to make the adjustment to it, please PM me with instructions (keep it simple cuz I am).

I would be happy to update the written list if you will PM me the following information:

1. Owners Name(s):
2. State:
3. AT/MT
4. Installed By:

Phil's 8

iTrader: (3)

I added Bco007 and Rote8 to the list. I will play with the map and see if I can't figure it out.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

thats what i plan to do today guys and yall are right--test good but still will not work.
Also correct---will not start at all--no sound from starter.
another day---
OD

morkusyambo

have you tried using a different battery yet.

swoope

iTrader: (5)

check the clutch position switch.

beers

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

FOUND IT!!!
battery ok--load tested it, clutch switch ok per multimeter BUT the clutch switch connector was NOT. Guess that crowbar i used to help get it off must have pulled a wire a little too much----kidding. There was a wire loose but i didnt use a crowbar.
Fixed and running
The exhaust wrap smoked a lot more than I thought it would. I do have a leaky header gasket and I will have to call Scott to get his latest(i have his midpipe remember).
Underhood temps are down and undercar temps are really down-smile smile smile.
I also made some o2 sensor cooling wings and installed.
So far so good. Power increase----hmmmmm

Question---how long are the motor mount bolts-the one that screws into the motor mount itself(the one on the frame)? I may have put too short of a bolt in it.
Juan---what did you do about the header support bracket?
olddragger

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

oh yea if you dont have the clutch brace---believe it or not--you really can tell a difference. It feels so solid now---rock solid.
OD

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Way to go OD.

Assuming you got the ExoticSpeed header. Take the OEM bracket and cut the two outside edges of the bracket towards the header and bend slightly the bracket. Drill (I believe) two holes, attach first the transmission end and then the bracket end. Sorry but I will not be able to post pictures until Saturday. However, make sure you attach a bracket or the heat created by the heat wrap will eventually bend the header/mid-pipe section and your exhaust will start sagging.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

ok will do! Thanks for that info--didnt realize the header would eventually bend.
by the way a heat solution is coming---mumb is the word right now---but trust me
OD

swoope

iTrader: (5)

he he,

your welcome..

beers

shinka213

Hey Phil
we have another SC owner out there...
screen name zenrx8

Phil's 8

iTrader: (3)

I need his other info and I will add him to the list. If you can get it to me I would appreciate it.
1. Owners Name(s): Screen/actual first
2. State:
3. AT/MT
4. Installed By:

I think we are missing several SC owners.

Rotr8

iTrader: (2)

Hey OD, Im a soon to be 'owner'(still a couple months away) and I recently finished reading the entire Petit inventory of threads. I have many ?s for you since you rarely post pics of your DIYs... I will be PMing you and Juan over the next couple of months about some things... anyway thought you might be interested in this since your on a never ending quest to further cool your engine... may help may not...