9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

I don't see a problem with it other than corrosion. That is why I used normal coolant in my turbo coolant reservoir. Even a lot of brands of distilled water still has contaminants that can lead to corrosion.

logalinipoo

A sneek peek inside the box, hot water in goes to the top. Cold waTer out goes from the bottom back, i have a float about half way to shut off water/ meth injection and drop boost level if it starts running low and a temp sensor to help decide where to pull water from.<br/>

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

log, so your 8 is gonna be a mobile moonshine factory? thats a neat idea lol

logalinipoo

Heres my det phones . The quick connects are temperary until i get it all in place. Ive got a 20' wire on it now. They also work great with the original probe for tracking down engine sounds.

logalinipoo

Heck yeah 3 gallons on hand at all times.

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

i like the cut of your jib man

logalinipoo

Hey now you said you weren't staring.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Really interested in how well this works . When will you be trialing it ?

logalinipoo

Probably in the next few days. I might put it in tonight. Any thoughts on how to kind of safely induce a low knock? To see what it sounds like?

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Well .......... you really don't want to hear the loud ones that you hear in the cab sometimes when things go awry . There should be tell tale knocks that will give an indication that things could be improved well before that happens.

logalinipoo

I still have to get the top on my water box, but I might get that all buttoned up tonight. It will be a while before I get the cooling set up. But I'll feel better about pushing the boost a bit more with the water in there. Then it'll be time for more timing and boost. I hold steady 7 psi now from 3500 up. It starts to spool a bit as low as 2500.

Harlan

iTrader: (3)

Been there done that. Just unbolt the stock knock sensor from the block and drive around a little bit. Most noticeable will be when you give it gas while cruising at 3-4k. You can hear a lot more at high rpms but it becomes harder to distinguish from engine noise without filtering.

logalinipoo

Im Waiting on your great results to go the filtered route but I'd like to eventually

JimmyBlack

I like the AC cooling idea. I use similar copper coils to crash cool my home brew. You've got a suitable amount of copper surface area in there. I take it you'll submerge a small IC in the water box? If so, I'd recommend running the copper coils around the IC. Also if you're having issues with cooling (I don't think you will), introducing some turbulence to the water in the box will hugely improve cooling efficiency. Leaving a space for air in the top so it sloshes while you drive should be enough, otherwise a propeller/impeller would get you some bonus style points

logalinipoo

Ty jimmy, I've got about 18' of 1/4" tubing so I hope it's enough. I could probably fit in another 10 if need be.

The intercooler is a water/air. So I'll pump the chilled water to it. That's why I have the diverted valve. To isolate the box and give it time to cool.

I've also thought about the fluid movement. That's part of why the inlet is at the top and suction at the bottom.


Now I'm going to have to figure out how to fit a prop In there. Humm maybe mounted in the middle of the coil.

JimmyBlack

...why not put the copper straight into the water reservoir within the water/air IC? Wrap the copper round the air section. That may not be possible soooo try this:

The coldest part of your cold water box by far will be in the centre of your copper coil. Run the suction (outlet) from your cold water box through the centre of the copper coils so it sucks water from inside the copper coil. Plug the end of this suction tube and drill lots of holes all the way along it's length so it sucks the cold air in uniformly from the entire length of the tube within the copper coil. No prop required as the suction tube will pull water through the copper coil.

logalinipoo

Good idea, it might require a couple of 90 fittings instead of a bend. I'll defiantly look into it.

logalinipoo

Ok the water box is done and in.The difference on intake temps is amazing. I have the water pump tied into my accessory relay so it turns on as soon as the key is on. This will get more advanced kind of soon. I'm working on an intelligent arduino based system.

The cooling will still be a little down the road. but the switching valve and all the plumbing is in place. The system takes about 3.5 gallons of fluid. I pumped it dry and timed it at about 18 seconds per a gallon or 3.3 gallons a minute. I've been planing on 3GPM. Once I get cooling attached I'll have about 54 seconds of below ambient water to subcool my intercooler. That's one hell of a pull.

I'm boosting about 7-8 PSI right now. With a hard pull 1-3rd 0-95MPH ISH. I would get about a 40F temp rise and It would take minutes to fall about 10f above ambient. With the system finally set up. I let the car heat up and stopped at a couple of stores to let the system heat soak a little. Then got in a good pull getting on the highway. The temps only went about 20F above ambient and as soon as I was off throttle they started dropping. Withing seconds it was only 2f above ambient and stayed there for about 10 min drive home.

I have to get a good long drive in and see if I can get the whole thing to really heat soak in daily driving. I also want to get in some baseline pulls without the pump on and see the difference of just circulating the radiator to inter cooler without the tank in place.

Pictures to come soon, but for now it's time for more timing more boost and a lot more fun.

logalinipoo

Here's a little look around under the hood. When I reach in I'm switching the water valve manually. It either circulates from intercooler to radiator. Or intercooler, radiator, water box.



And here's the aux mod. I went cheap and used a set of free headphones from my last plane flight. It's pretty nice. Even with a music cd. The cd volume drops when I turn on the input. You can hear it come back on when I turn it off. In the morning I'm going to run it to the knock sensor.


So do I bolt it on the front rotor, or rear. Also if I go rear do I put it above or below the stock

Aux mod

logalinipoo

Mac v46 4 port solenoid and mosfets ordered for my arduino based boost controler.

logalinipoo

x post from B@W. as of now I'm pretty consistantly running 7.5-8 psi of boost and enjoying it, I have plans of bringing that up around 10 PSI soon and just staying there for a while maybe working on the tune there for a while until I get this stuff together and/or can squeeze out a bit of money for a KANN tune. So here's the big plans for a little more safety to the system and maybe some longevity. Even if it's all for nothing most of this stuff was pretty cheap being that I did it at home with cheap chinese knock off stuff and there should be some definite cool points for the system.

My target boost is and has always been 18 PSI. It might be a year or 3 for me to get there, but until I do I'll keep aiming and inching my way along.

Hoosier, you still here. It's a pretty big project overall but I'm looking at it in pieces

Plan is to run this on an arduino or maybe several to free up computer cycles(I'm not really sure how much power they have) I have a mega2560 right now. but will probably set it up with a different form factor once it's all togther.

Boost controler
Water injection
Intercooler pump logic(this kind of combines with subcooling the intake water.)
Sensor inputs with boost reductions varying based on what's going on all the way to a very low set spring under the worst of conditions.
And lastly a Knock processor to tie into the boost controler also.


First is the boost controler. The plan which is very open to suggestions. Take in pressure with MTX4250AP Pressure sensor. Then modulate a 12 volt 5.4 Watt solenoid at 20-40 hertz Maybe a little higher or lower depending on how it reacts. Maybe boost by gear or pull in rpm and speed to really allow some control. but for starters just a basic control.

Water injection running a 12 volt 10 amp water pump constant on when in any boost and I can set up a map to pulse a solenoid to get a good proportion of water/fuel at desired boost levels and rpm's. Again for starters just the equipment to drive the pump and solenoid. Then get it injection at a fixed volume.

AFR, Fuel pres, water temp and air intake temp and put a boost cut if they get out of wack. I'd also like to set up a boost reduction for knock input and for a fault in the water injection.


Currently my water based intercooler flows. from pump to intercooler to radiator. then through a selector switch that goes back to the pump or into the water box. I have it constant to the water box for the time being and the pump turns on when I turn on the car key.

The last part of it all will be setting up the logic for my sub cooling. I've got a servo to isolate my water box.
Temp sensors are the MAF in bumper, water box, radiator, pre intercooler, and post

So I'm thinking It'll pull from all of them. the one pre intercooler is just to look at efficiency and tuning the water injection. on startup it will check to see if the waterbox and intercooler are heatsoaked. if they are it will open the circ valve and flow them all until they cool down. If not then it will just circulate the radiator or the pump will remain off. when the efficiency of the intercooler falls off it will kick on the water pump to the radiator. If that whole system starts to heat soak significantly above atmosphere, then it opens the water box that is sub cooled. or under high demand it opens the water box. If under high demand and the water box warms up to the radiator temp then it turns it off and gives it time to regenerate.

JimmyBlack

Hey man, link to that IAT table you were after (assuming you have the same sensor model as me).
IAT Sensor calibration table

logalinipoo

Ty sir. My sensor sure looks like the one you posted. It even came with the Uninstalled connector.

slash128

Looking forward to seeing your arduino controller! I have one sitting on my desk that I tinker with from time to time, mostly to flash LED sequences, nothing as fancy as what you got going on

logalinipoo

I've been delayed on it. The usps didn't forward my mail so all the stuff is at my house in tx. I was hoping to have it for experimenting in saudi. Now I bought a house built in 1841(no typo) that's going to take a lot of work. When I get home at the end of Jan it's time to move. Then its mardi gras time. But I'll get all the pieces parts and get to working on it.

I hope it works well. If you can blink those lights in sequence and put a few switches with if then statements that's about all you need.

I'll be switching octocouplers to run a Fairchild semiconductor to control the loads.

To run the boost valve I bought a square wave generator that has an option for remote pots. I tested them and the pots use a 0-5v input. So I can use pwm to simulate that and have my frequency and duty cycle controler by the arduino. I don't really need this but I have grander plans.

The greedy profess has The pwm set at one freq and duty cycle is user adjustable. It turns on at a set pressure and goes off at a set over boost pressure.

Ideal I'll make mine hunt max pressure based on knock. So it'll adjust boost as necessary.